fasttruck860

I just received most of the pieces to build my first router table and I need help with some key things. First here's the list of things I have: MLCS phenolic router plate, Freud SH-5 router fence, on/off switch, t-tracks, accessories. I just bought the PC 890 with plunge and fixed base and height adjustment tool. I haven't had to much time lately to use the router yet, so constructing the table will its first task.

Here's my questions. What dimensions should I make my router top? I was thinking 36" x 24". Sometimes at work we have leftover counter tops, would this be a better choice than mdf? Does anyone have experience with mounting the Freud router fence? It was designed to use a special nut that has to be drilled and mounted in the table. Of coarse this nut doesn't come with the fence. I was thinking of using t-tracks instead since I will have leftover pieces. Would this be my best bet?

Thanks

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bobj3

Hi fasttruck860


This just my 2 cents

I would not use the counter top stock, most of the time it's PB or chip board, not to easy to router a flat lip to hold the router plate, not to say anything about how strong it is...or to say strong it is NOT..

I would suggest 3/4" MDF ( 2 each) or some birch plywood,you can also buy cabinet stock that is Birch Plywood that is fac. laminated...

I would also suggest you build the base 1st. ( cabinet) with the same stock as the top, it can be just a simple cabinet case with 3 1/2 sides..,24" x 36" is a good size..for the top.

I don't know about the Freud router fence? may if you post a picture some one can come up with a workaround for the nut...

I also don't suggest you use the t-track, so you can hold/move the fence..it will put in a trip up lip right in front and on out feed side of the router bit..it's not a big deal on the in feed side of the bit BUT many times you will have a small chip out or edge that will hang on the track that will stop you dead in your tracks or put a small nick in the stock if you try and lift the stock over the hang up , I would suggest you use the sides/ends of the table top, that's to say a over hang clamp type hold down, that way you don't need to drill or cut into the top, you can also just mount the Freud fence to it...1/2" or 3/4" MDF will do the trick...


Tee-slot bit below
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops..._cutter_Anchor


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AxlMyk

I agree on not using countertop material. Pressed board doesn't hold its flatness. MDF does a great job.

I just finished a new top for my cabinet. I like having tracks in the top to hold things down with. If you bring the tracks flush with the table surface they don't catch on things. If you cut the track slot too deep, just use layers of tape to bring the tracks up flush.

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curiousgeorge

Good looking top, Mike! Now all it needs is a good coat or two of Johnson's Paste Wax and the flys will be using it for a skating rink.

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Hamlin

Excellent looking table Mike.

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Dr.Zook

Looks great Mike. Now if it will only warm up enough to go out and use it.

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karateed

Beauty Mike,

Very nice job.

Ed......:-)

fdcox

Now that a nice table, and I really like that base.

fasttruck860

Thanks for the suggestions. I will post a picture later of the fence.


Here's the pictures of my fence. I will most likely be changing the setup a little as I figure out what I don't like about it. I still haven't decided on what to do about mounting the fence, but I'm pretty sure that I won't be using the nuts drilled and pressed into the top method.

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bobj3

Thanks fasttruck860

For posting a snapshot of the fence.

" but I'm pretty sure that I won't be using the nuts drilled and pressed into the top method"

I pretty sure you don't want to,, you will only have about 1 1/2" of adjustment, many times you will want the fence back from the bit more than 1 1/2" ....the router table can do more than put on a edge on a board.
e.g. a dado slot for just one more ,,,
I would also suggest you replace the Phil.Head screws with Allen Button Head Scews,you know how Phil.drive screws like to cam out and strip...the X drive out, or better yet drill out the threaded holes in the fence and just use carr.bolts with wing nuts on the back side,you will need to move the fence in and out all the time... and at the same time you are doing that you may want to make the slots just a bit longer so you can open the black hole behind the bit to 4" max so you can use the fence with the big bits..if you want to go the extra mile cut the inside ends of the fence at a 10 deg. angle so you make/use a slip in insert to make a chip breaker for your bits...

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__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.