Coon

I’m just getting into detailed woodworking. I’m renovating an old house. I’ve had a router for about a year but only used it for routing door hinges. I recently purchased a table to mount my router and a set of “shaker style bits” to make some shaker style flat panel cabinet doors.

I started Saturday and everything except one thing worked out perfect. The only problems I encountered were when routing the “tongues” on either side of the top and bottom rail, when I’d get to the end of the wood it would peals back about a .5” to 1” part off of the wood at the top and bottom of the board (I’ll post pics later). I’m using poplar.

There are four possible causes that I can figure. Router speed, bit, technique, or wood type.

The I’ve tried multiple speeds on my router and the same thing happens.

It’s a brand new bit so I’ll go ahead and rule that out

I’ve tried making multiple passes with less than full depth and working my way up and the same thing happens.

Lastly the wood. Could this be because it’s not a hardwood?

Or is there something I’m missing.

Please advise.

Thanks for the help.

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bobj3

Hi Coon

Trees are trees and they do like to split,,,,I would suggest you use longer stock and cut off/ trim the bad after the router job...poplar is one that likes to split alot when it's milled....

Just one way to trim them up after the glue up,,,

Glue and clamp them up and then put them on the table saw and trim the top and the bottom parts of the doors...

To get around the error on the rails use wider stock then rip to size after the cope cut is in place,start with 5 1/2" wide stock and rip it to 2 7/16" - 2 1/2" after....so you end up with two parts for the door...

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Coon

Thanks Bob.

I'm already ripping the stock i have so I'll just rout it prior to the rip. That should take care of the peeling.

Here's a quick laugh. I glued up, clamped, and cleaned up my first door on Saturday on a plywood work table (plywood on sawhorses). It looked BEAUTIFUL and i couldn't wait for the 30 min to pass so i could unclamp it and admire my work. After 30 min i unclamped and tried to pick it up only to discover that it was firmly glued to the table!!! I had to pry it up and the Tightbond didn't break, it actually took out a chunk from the plywood. Lesson #1, glue comes out of both sides...

bobj3

You'er Welcome Coon


hahahahahahahahaha I have done that one also a time or two hahahahaha
Like you I have seen some work benchs that have tons of glue on them and it always makes me laugh just a little bit


Here's a little tip I now use,,, butcher paper or wax paper under the door or on top of the clamps work well for me .. keeps the black marks off the door from the clamps or keeps in from sticking to the work bench hahahahaha
plus it makes a quick clean up, the glue just likes to drip off the stock when it gets clamped down I just about always wipe it down with a wet rag but some times I just can't get it all off under the clamp bars.

The butcher paper ( 16" wide ) is a bit wider but it like to roll back up so I just put on some masking tape to hold it into place...

Just a Note****
I was putting in a 1" wide dado slot in some maple on Sunday and I heard that nasty sound of splintering wood sound ( ripping out ) the stock ,I could see the nice chips coming out but I knew it was also ripping the stock out as well so I dropped the bit down a bit and that did help but in this case no way to use a backup block to keep it from ripping the stock out, and it was a new bit as well...like I said b/4 trees like to split out...



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RWS on YouTube

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Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
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Bob J.

curiousgeorge

Hello Coon, Welcome to the forums.
Another way to help control split out is to use a backer board or a push block.

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George
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Julie

Hi Coon

As George said, you are most likely just experiencing tear out. Tear out happens where the tool exits the cut. If you put a scrap piece of wood behind the piece you are routing, then the tear out will happen on the scrap piece and not your good piece. A sharper bit is better for preventing tear out, as is taking a few passes rather than one if possible with the bit type you are using. Also, the species of wood you are working with can make a difference.

Tear out happens to most of us!

~Julie~

Coon

FYI: i used the "push block" method yesterday and it worked fine. only two (out of 20-30 cuts) had tear out...

Thanks...

Mike

For the record poplar is a hardwood. Glad you licked the tear out problem.

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Coon

Is there a way to post pics on this board? i trued clicking the image link and inserting the link to where the picture is hosted but it gives me this...

"Your Post contains one or more URLs (external links), please remove them before submitting your message again. If you require assistance, feel free to contact our support team regarding this error."

bobj3

Hi Coon

You can post pictures right off the bat BUT you can't post a URL until you have posted 10 items.. ( It's spam block that the Admin. has put in place)

Here's a link to show you how to post attachments (pictures)
http://www.routerforums.com/howattachment.php

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__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.