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Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router.


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Old 05-22-2008, 07:00 PM   #11
Hamlin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by italian biker
Not to sound ignorant, what's the difference between brads and finish nails?
Question two. I've seen a combination brad nailer/stapler device. Are these useful or is it better to have seperate devices?
Combo's work.... ok. IMHO, these are junk, they use what's called a "clipped head". As Bj mentioned, this is where that hole comes from. I don't really care for the combo's. I prefer a single tool for a single purpose. It does add to the cost of tooling but, to get the end result in which I'm after, it's well worth it. For electric over pneumatics, I prefer the air. A simple adjustment to the air pressure and this controls the depth of which the pin/brad is driven.

I can't add too much more to what BJ and Mike both have said. Pins/brads = small diameter, easily hidden. Finish nails, are 'huge" and more than likely will cause splitting, also difficult to hide the hole they leave.

The most important advice that can be given is.... patience and have fun!!
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Old 05-23-2008, 08:55 AM   #12
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Might I suggest a Brad Pusher. A simple but very handy tool and less expensive. The barrel is spring loaded. Place the brad in, line it up and gently push the handle. I won’t leave a mark on hard woods and an almost non discernable mark on the soft woods. Obviously not a high production tool but very useful for brads. And because brads are very small you won’t be hitting your fingers with a hammer.
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Old 05-28-2008, 03:06 PM   #13
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Hi Mike

I agree with you most of this time BUT on this one well

Pin Nails ,have no head,,,,,unlike the brad and finish nails, it's true they are very,very thin (pin nails) most have a little arrow on the clip to show how to put them in the gun..but a complete diff.animal from brad and finish nails... once in place it's very hard to see them..

It takes a very special nail gun to put them in place...most are about $100.oo to $250.oo but you can get one to do the job for about 40.oo dollars...and worth every dime when you are installing trim...making a picture frames,boxes,etc... a pin/brad/finish nail is a clamp, made to hold stock until the glue setups the norm.. but it can be used as a stand alone fastner as well...that's the neat thing about pin nails, it's hard to see them.. the shear on a steel pin is very,very high....


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==========






Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
The difference between pin nails, brads and finish nails is the diameter. Since this is going to be one of your first projects I would suggest you try building a "magic box." This is an easy project to master and looks very nice. Practice building a couple from the cheapest wood you can find then build your project from a nice hardwood like red oak or hickory. Search the forums to see the "magic box" plans.
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new-wood-working-pin-nails.jpg  new-wood-working-pin-nailer.jpg  
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Last edited by bobj3; 05-28-2008 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 05-28-2008, 03:55 PM   #14
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For most joinery for a box you don't need any brads, nails, staples, etc.
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Old 05-29-2008, 01:29 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxlMyk
For most joinery for a box you don't need any brads, nails, staples, etc.
I would probably use brads to attach my inner laminate to the bottom with glue. I won't be doing any molding work, at least that I know of. I'm not a carpenter or in any construction trade. I want to build boxes and picture frames. Also, I will go with a pneumatic brad nailer. I'm curious as to what guage nailer I should get. I'm thinking 18. And I know Harbor Freight doesn't carry the best stuff, but for the amount I'd use it, does any one think a nailer from them for say 30 bucks is OK?

Last edited by italian biker; 05-29-2008 at 01:33 AM.
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Old 05-29-2008, 05:27 AM   #16
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Check out the assortment at www.grizzly.com They have several and prices are close to Harbor Freight. -Derek
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:00 AM   #17
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I have a HF brad nailer. The O-rings leak, but it works OK. The Chinese make everything cheap.
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Old 05-29-2008, 11:05 AM   #18
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Hi italian biker

The Harbor Freight ones are fine,,, I have 15 or so nailers ,some are HF,Grizzly,Senco,AirCo,Porter Cable,DeWalt,Craftsman, etc. and they all work fine but it's like your hammer collection, the right hammer for the right job..you don't want to use a framers hammer to put in a 18g brad nail..

But it sounds like you may want to pickup a nail set or two,they come in many sizes....it's a old tech tool but they work very well and are cheap.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by italian biker
I would probably use brads to attach my inner laminate to the bottom with glue. I won't be doing any molding work, at least that I know of. I'm not a carpenter or in any construction trade. I want to build boxes and picture frames. Also, I will go with a pneumatic brad nailer. I'm curious as to what guage nailer I should get. I'm thinking 18. And I know Harbor Freight doesn't carry the best stuff, but for the amount I'd use it, does any one think a nailer from them for say 30 bucks is OK?
__________________
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http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

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Old 05-29-2008, 09:10 PM   #19
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HF is "OK". If you're not going to use it a whole lot, then definetly get a cheapie. The majority of air nailers are Craftsman but, my Grizzly's are closing the gap.

18gauge IMHO is the most used. As has been said earlier, they only act like as a holding device 'til the glue/adhesive(s) dry/cure.
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