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Table-mounted Routing Discussions solely based on operations that are using the table-mounted router. Bob and Rick say "More than 90% of all operations using the router can be done with the table-mounted router.


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Old 05-23-2008, 10:36 AM   #1
Jtomwoods
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Question Jointing long boards

I am trying to get a straight edge on some long boards (8 footers) using the jointer fence. Using short boards, I have adjusted the fence to eliminate snipe. When I joint the longer boards, it seems I get a curve in the board. I can edge joint two boards and place one on top of the other matching up the jointed edges, but they don't line up. I would appreciate any help on this. I am assuming this is technique oriented.

Thanks - Tom
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Old 05-23-2008, 10:50 AM   #2
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Hi Tom

Jointing long boards on the router table is always trickey,,, I would suggest you use two or more feather boards on the out feed side of the router table fence, the trick is to keep the stock to the fence all the way down the pass...

You can make your own feather boards quick and easy if you don't have some on hand.
http://www.routerworkshop.com/featherbd.html
http://www.routerworkshop.com/jointer101102.html

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Old 05-23-2008, 03:55 PM   #3
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For long boards, I would find a long reference edge, and use that as a guide with a hand-held router for edge jointing. A step fence is more convenient for shorter boards, but with long boards the need to a very long straight fence makes it impractical, particularly in a small shop. It takes twice as much room to move the board as it does to move the router.
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Old 05-23-2008, 04:37 PM   #4
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Hi Tom

Here's just one more way to get the job done..if you want to use your hand held router.

Clamp the 2 boards down to the work bench with some plywood under them leave a grap in the boards you are going to use then clamp two boards on top of the boards you want to joint, run the router bit down the center of the slot between the boards using the top boards as a guide,,, you can use a 1/4" to 1/2" bit to do the job, the boards will match up right on the button because you are plowing two boards at one time.

Besure to mark your boards b/4 you start the job...

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Old 05-24-2008, 09:39 PM   #5
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Thanks guys for the ideas. They are probably more practical than trying to do this type of work on the table.
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Old 05-25-2008, 09:11 AM   #6
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bobj3, I've never tried this method but, because the cutter is rotating in the wrong direction for one of the boards, I wonder how smoothly the router will move and what the cut will look like on this side, just a thought.
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Old 05-25-2008, 12:22 PM   #7
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Hi Electron

You should give this a try out,,,,I got the ideal from Bob R. from one of his shows, he was doing panel job and wanted the panels to fit just right and tight, and I said it works great on panels out how with two boards that you want to fit tight and it worked out just great because it's a mirror cut.

The gap between the boards takes the stress off the bit and the router.
It's only taking off a 1/16" to 1/8" if that so no need to worry about traping the bit in the boards...or running in on a climp cut...if you use a sheer type bit it will come out very clean just like doing in on a jointer...and it's a mirror image cut...

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Originally Posted by Electron
bobj3, I've never tried this method but, because the cutter is rotating in the wrong direction for one of the boards, I wonder how smoothly the router will move and what the cut will look like on this side, just a thought.
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http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

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Old 05-25-2008, 03:00 PM   #8
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RWS (Oak Park) episode #6 shows exactly how Bob R. does this. It's really the best way of "jointing" your long boards together.
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Old 05-25-2008, 10:05 PM   #9
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"Construction tricks of the trade" is the video you want to watch.
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