jimcrockett

Has anyone created drawer lock joints on a router table using slotting bits?

I am building drawers for a router cabinet, using 1/2" (15/32") BB. I'm sure that a rabbeted joint, particularly if pinned, would suffice but I was wondering if a drawer lock joint could be made on the router table without the specific router bit which I don't have. Here is how I have figured it: the deep dado in the front piece = 1/4"; the narrower dado in the side piece = 1/8", leaving 3/32 for the front piece that overlaps the end of the side piece. Clear as mud?????

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bobj3

Hi Jim

" using slotting bits? " Yes, but it's a easyer to do on the table saw..


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allthunbs

BobJ3:

Normally I would bow to your greater wisdom and experience but in this case, I'd go with the router. With the saw you have tight clearances between the blade and the table insert. This would necessitate the cost and time involved in a new insert. Next, you have to nibble away the material or make multiple passes to clear what you can in one pass with the router. Given the highest quality blade with the perfect fence, you still need cleanup and tweeking.

Saw:

Cut 1 is a 1/4" dado cut in the drawer side.

Cut 2 is a >3/8" dado cut in the drawer end. Don't forget to do some test cuts for every dado blade setup and don't dare use a wobble dado on something so precise and don't forget to tighten carefully all nuts.

Cut 3 is a 1/4" dado cut in the end of the drawer end. Very tricky and dangerous on a table saw. You'll definately need a new table insert for minimum clearance for that end cut. Oh, and don't forget the tenon jig or the elevated fence. Make sure it's at right angles now.

Router:

Mount the 1/4" straight cutting bit - Set the fence to remove the material in the end for the drawer front. This may be the first of two passes. With a supporting block to hold a right angle, remove the material.

Bang the fence back to create a 1/4" gap to create the rabbit in the drawer side. Cut your drawer sides. You can use Bob Rosenthal's fine adjusting tool for this -- available at your nearest junk box, garage sale or in dire necessity (like when your wife borrowed it,) your local hardware store.

Raise the bit a little bit to create the locking rabbit in the end of the drawer front. Use your supporting block and cut your drawer ends.

Possibly quicker, certainly safer, potentially more accurate with better results and less mascara and lipstick needed to hide the flaws ;-)

Sorry Bob. Router = 1; saw = 0 ;-)

garycurtis

Jim, I just put my unused (I have two) Whiteside Drawer Lock Joint bit up for sale on eBay. The eBay item number is 330253323525.

The Drawer Lock is such a simple joint, that you really don't need the quality offered by Whiteside. I Taiwanese import will do the job for less money.
I enjoy making these joints on a router table because they are so fast and there is great satisfaction in doing the milling on a bunch of sides and ends, and then quickly gluing and assembling them. From raw wood to recognizable furniture parts in just minutes.

Oh, and all profits from my eBay sale go to a good cause ---- me.

Gary

garycurtis

A picture of the Whiteside bit.

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larryc

OK - I must have missed the memo!
What's Bob Rosenthal's fine adjusting tool?

fibertech

Bob uses a small hammer to move the fence after he has clamped it down. -Derek

allthunbs

small? Nuts it looks like a standard 16 oz claw hammer. But I use a 14" long handle on a 9" long x 3" diameter wooden head made of basswood (I think - I inherited it from my father.) It is light, solid, looks really mean but provides a soft light touch when needed and a more solid whack will provide more than a slight incentive to move without so much as a grazing of the surface of the "moved" object.

Larryc:

Ok, Bob Rozenthal hosted the television series "the router workshop" that was carried on PBS several years ago now. He would place the router with the baseplate into the table and afix the fence with two "C" clamps. Once he had roughly set the distance on the fence, he'd tighten it down, almost tight. Then he'd check his measurement again and "adjust" the fence by tapping it in or out with his hammer. When he was satisfied with the adjustment he'd tighten the clamps down the rest of the way. I picked up on it and have used it ever since.

He also said "don't measure" -- a philosophy that I now follow religiously except when I can't figure out how not to measure. One of his favourites is the "modern centering tool" A.K.A. (also known as) your eye. Guestimate then test then use your fine adjusting tool.

Most of the time these philosophies are real time savers, reduce the incidence of error and eliminate dependence on error-prone measuring devices. I have a collection of straight edges and rules most of which don't agree with each other.l

Gotta go -- lunch :-)

Mike

Bob and Rick Rosendahl (father and son) taught us many neat tricks, always with the "simple is better" approach. For those of you who do not know, routerforums is administrated by Mark and Kevin Rosendahl, the grand kids.

Drawer locking joints are easy to make with both a table saw or a router. Either way the joint will be stronger than a rabbit joint since there are more glue surfaces. As far as bits go, while you may not need the quality of a Whiteside bit you should consider that the Whiteside bit will be around much longer than any less expensive bit, and making cleaner cuts.

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clearcut

In his book Router Magic, Bill Hylton has a plan for a 1 set up, 4 pass jig that cuts drawer lock joints using an 1/8th slot cutting bit. It is simple to build and works incredibly well. It is limited to 1/2 sides but makes drawer lock joints so easy that I now use it for both the front and back of my drawers.