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Old 04-08-2005, 08:46 AM   #1
bladeburner
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Default Snap-in window grids/mullions

Anyone know how to make these? I don't care for the ones for sale; they're too wide and plain.
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Old 02-14-2008, 06:26 PM   #2
bobj3
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This is a OLD post and I saw a Guest viewing it.. so I said, I will put in a how-to-make -them..post,,,so others can see how to make them the easy and safe way.


Glass Window type doors can be tricky to make and the mullions are the hard part..very small parts,(narrow parts),,the key is to use the right bit set and the right jig (shop made push blocks are the keys to making them easy)
Marc Sommerfeld sells the best video I have found how to make them, he will show you how to from sq.1 to the finsh door, ( with full glass or glass panels with mut/mullions)


DVD/GlassPanelDoors
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item....dvd2&d=118&b=1

many more great videos below
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/list.asp?d=118&p=1

DVD/GlassPanelDoors
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item....dvd2&d=118&b=1

He also sell the best bit set for this job..
DVD/GlassPanelDoors router bit set.
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item....03003&d=85&b=1
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/list.asp?d=85&p=1


===========
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:47 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
He also sell the best bit set for this job..
DVD/GlassPanelDoors router bit set.
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item....03003&d=85&b=1
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/list.asp?d=85&p=1


===========
Obviously I am biased, but I would argue this point. The bits you linked to require three cuts and leave a gap in the end of the door from the groove for the plastic retainer. The Freud version makes a tenon that not only fills the gap but also adds strength and it only takes two cuts:
http://www.freudtools.com/p-126-glas...r-bit-set.aspx
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Old 02-15-2008, 10:06 AM   #4
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Hi Charles

I new you would

The over size slot cutter is used for two jobs,,,1st. to put in the slot and then to remove the back side of the "mut/mullions" parts...for a full glass or 4 or more glass parts.

Here's how it work:

Mill the cope and pattern cuts first, then use the slot cutter to cut the groove for the rubber panel retainer.
The edge of the pattern cut will ride on the bearing of the slot cutter bit.
When you cut the slot in the rails you can cut the slot the full length of the stock.
When you cut the slot in the stiles you need to set up reference points to stop and start the cuts so they are hidden from view on the top and bottom of the doors..

Do get one of the video just for kicks it's only 10.oo bucks and you see what I mean...

I will say the Freud bit set would be great for a one part glass door But many doors that have glass in them have more than one paine in them.(4 parts the norm or more),("mut/mullions type,stain glass type for just one of them) ( that's why I recommend the CMT
( sommerfeldtools set) it will do both types with one set for 130.00 bucks unlike the Freud for 140.oo bucks...

From Amazon at " Freud 99-286 $140.00"

==========

Cabinets Doors
http://www.thomasvillecabinetry.com/...lassDoors.aspx


===========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles M
Obviously I am biased, but I would argue this point. The bits you linked to require three cuts and leave a gap in the end of the door from the groove for the plastic retainer. The Freud version makes a tenon that not only fills the gap but also adds strength and it only takes two cuts:
http://www.freudtools.com/p-126-glas...r-bit-set.aspx
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snap-window-grids-mullions-glass-doors.jpg  
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Last edited by bobj3; 02-15-2008 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 02-15-2008, 11:30 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Here's how it work:

Mill the cope and pattern cuts first, then use the slot cutter to cut the groove for the rubber panel retainer.
The edge of the pattern cut will ride on the bearing of the slot cutter bit.
When you cut the slot in the rails you can cut the slot the full length of the stock.
When you cut the slot in the stiles you need to set up reference points to stop and start the cuts so they are hidden from view on the top and bottom of the doors..
Bj,

You'll have to help me out on this one. How does what you describe above compare to making glass doors with the Freud set:

Step 1. Mill the cope and pattern cuts
Step 2. Oh yeah, there's not a Step 2. No $10 DVD required.

And what holds the joint together?

An in regards to making SDL (simulated divided lite) grills, any set can do that.

And the Sommerfeld Tools bits are made in China while Freud is made in Italy.

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree.
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Old 02-15-2008, 11:39 AM   #6
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Hi Charles


"I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree." I think you'er right

But do get the video I'm sure it will open your eyes to a new way of doing the job.. (the easy and fast way and SAFE way )

Have a good one Charles


"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
MIKE
Senior Moderator


=====
OTHERS that sell the same set...▼

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=8206
Best Price is from Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P4NSUK
http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog...855_803_11.htm
http://www.mikestools.com/cmt-glass-...-set_1474.aspx

=============


Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles M
Bj,

You'll have to help me out on this one. How does what you describe above compare to making glass doors with the Freud set:

Step 1. Mill the cope and pattern cuts
Step 2. Oh yeah, there's not a Step 2. No $10 DVD required.

And what holds the joint together?

An in regards to making SDL (simulated divided lite) grills, any set can do that.

And the Sommerfeld Tools bits are made in China while Freud is made in Italy.

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree.
Attached Thumbnails
snap-window-grids-mullions-8211.jpg  
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Last edited by bobj3; 02-17-2008 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 02-15-2008, 02:27 PM   #7
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Hi Charles

Just added a snapshot and some links to other web sites that sell the same item.

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Old 02-15-2008, 03:06 PM   #8
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That's cool but I still don't understand how you can see that design as somehow superior. The Freud version does exactly the same thing but in fewer steps and makes a stronger joint. Oh yeah, and the Freud set allows the use of a more readily available size of glass molding.
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:22 PM   #9
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Hi Charles

Well it comes down to making the "mut/mullions" parts ,that's the hard part.

It looks like your bit can't do that,,,because it's all in one bit...
The mullions lets say can't take on the slot that the bit would put in because of the size, most are only 1 1/16 wide the norm....it's true they can be wider but then that's what BladeBurner did want to make or use .
http://www.routerforums.com/11233-post1.html

Or did I miss read that...?

I have not made the wide ones b/4 but it lookls like it would take a min. of 2" wide board it order to make them with the Freud bit...and it would make the door look just a bit out of wack..."chunky " "mut/mullions parts"


....


========


Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles M
That's cool but I still don't understand how you can see that design as somehow superior. The Freud version does exactly the same thing but in fewer steps and makes a stronger joint. Oh yeah, and the Freud set allows the use of a more readily available size of glass molding.
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Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

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Last edited by bobj3; 02-15-2008 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:32 PM   #10
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Bj,

The lite (pun intended) just came on for me. Actually the OP was looking for SDL snap on grilles but your point is valid. Except that the minimum width of the muntins with the Sommerfeld/CMT set must be at least 1-1/8" wide. For a true divided lite this is WAY too heavy (that was the OP's complaint). It should be done with bits designed for that purpose like these:
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