Dust control

levon

hi Tom,

i may be wrong but it sounds like you have the cyclone separator? am i correct?

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levon

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Hamlin

Hi levon,

You can use one of these between your DC/shop-vac and machine. Dust Collection Separator - Rockler Woodworking Tools

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BigJimAK

levon,

To be honest, I *stumbled* onto the right answer. I found a Jet DC1100A on craigslist for $175 with a cannister filter, knew it was a great price (shipping to Alaaska alone would cost that) and bought it. I then went to Bill Pentz's web site and learned his experiments have shown what it takes to capture the fines. He said the Jet 1100A was the smallest unit he found that would meet his dust criteria. That said (you really need to read his web site) its more complex than just CFM since that CFM is the maximum you can get, and some manufacturers rate theirs without an inlet hose or dust bag.

A DC's performance actually works along what is called a "fan curve". With absolutely no restrictions it blows lots of air and with lots of restrictions it blows very little. Restrictions in air ducting are commonly measured in "inches of Water column" (12" of water column = 0.433 psi).

DC's are high volume - low pressure units whose throughput drops dramatically as the pressure drop in the suction line and the bag goes from about zilch to the 8-14" range (often dropping to 30% or so of rated capacity). Compare this with a shop-vac which flows much less air but can draw 60-100" of water column.

With dust collectors, keeping pressure drops is paramount. That is why I plan on using my 1100 CFM unit (6" hose) as a roll-around, attaching it with a short hose to one tool at a time. If I wanted clean air and a central system, I'd need to spend more $$$ and either get one with morecapacity or one whose volume doesn't drop as much with pressure drop in the line. We're back to that fan curve thing again.

FWIW, Bill indicates the fan curve on the DC 1100A is better than most.

Also, this is the reason I've inquired about universal dust shrouds that will take a 6" hose. The more air I can draw around where the dust is made, the less there is to deal with elsewhere.

Also FWIW, the DC came with a 2 micron filter which is pretty good but I plan to upgrade it with a conversion kit from Wynn Environmental Cartridge Filters. They have conversion kits that will work with many DC's, including one designed for HF units.

Also, know the "dust" you see suspended in the air when the sunlight shines through your shop? Those are fines. In the household they are generally non-toxic but when they are wood fibers which are not only rough but also expand when they absorb moisture in your lungs, its not a good thing.

<Getting down off of my soapbox, looking down, kicking the ground and doing my best Gomer Pyle imitation> "Shucks, twern't nothin'!"

Jim

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a1tomo

Levon,

Ken's info is exactly what I have. I don't know, nor have I investigated all the options, if this is the way for everyone to go, but it works good for me. I have the Jet 1100 with the bags. My DC is about 8 years old with no problems. I use it only one machine at a time since that is all I ever use (not a great multi-tasker).

Hope this helps, you have gotten some good info from all these guys. Go do the best you can!

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Regards, Tom

xplorx4

Jim you mentioned fan curves, what most people do not understand is that a fan will blow differently than it will suck, Static pressures are critical in a fan that will suck i.e. exhaust fans as in a laboratory fume hood. I used to typically check out a "hood's" fan requirements; I had fan charts and lots of items needed to work up a fan. For example every curve, elbow, or any obstruction in the line reduces the performance of the fan and its ability to operate properly. I have forgotten so much of that stuff it is the old "use it or lose it thing". I have seen fans not properly sized not suck at all. Any time we had "hoods" in the project we had to check duct work and obstructions in the duct otherwise we had problems with that hood and in some small ways that is what we are doing when we use a DC system.

Well I have a couple more DC systems as options so need to take time to study them more closely and how I will run the line, what size and all. Jim I will check in on Bill's site thanks for the information.

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levon

hi Jim, thanks for all the info. it will take me a little time to digest it.
wish i could find a deal like you did. i look at craigslist a lot.

i plan on using only 1 machine at a time, but would prefer to run a trunk line on one wall then t off it a few times.

thanks to you Tom, i will give it my best attempt but fist have to scare up a few bucks,

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levon

AxlMyk

This is always a well discussed subject. Even brings things almost to blows at times.
It's always possible to get rid of separators, filters and bags, and duct the whole system outside into a collection box.

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3efingers

I built a "closet" on the outside of my shop and put the DC there, it was a BIG BIG improvement.

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BigJimAK

Tom,

That works great where / when the outside air is the temperature you want to work in, since all that air must be "made up" with outside air coming in around windows and through doors. In Anchorage it'd be great in the summer (10pm now, sunny and 72F) but in the winters it'd be like working outside. Hold the icicles, please!

Your mileage may vary..

Jim

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3efingers

BigJim

Thank goodness that the winters here in Texas are short, gets cold for a week or two and then warms up enough to go to the shop with no heat, summers are at times a bit harsh, today is the 15th day of 100+ temps. How much snow do you get a year? Every 3-4 years we have snow and ice but it dont last!

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