Mike

The sandpaper trick will work on any size blade where the teeth extend far enough out to provide clearance. You could use it on a guided circular saw with a 6-1/2" blade, but blades smaller than that tend to be steel as opposed to having carbide tips.

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Mike
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bobj3

I use the sand paper trick on my power hand saw ( 6 1/2", 1/16" wide carb.tip) and my
4" battery powered hand saw with a 1/16" wide carb.tip blade to cut plywood out of the 4' x 8' and I also put down masking tape to help with the rip out, masking tape is cheap unlike the plywood now days. the cuts come out real clean plus it saves me a trip to the table saw for a recut, plus I always use a drywall T to line up the cuts on 4' x 8' plywood and sometimes I use the drywall T as a saw guide to keep the saw running true to the mark. (clamped to the plywood with some hand clamps)
Just a NOTE*** they make drywall T bars in 1/8" thick and a hvy.duty one that about 1/4" thick and it works the best, most are true but sometimes a little tweak is needed to get them sq. and a small sheet metal screws (2ea.) for a lock device.
For long cuts I use a 8ft. long Alum. T bar 1/4" thick also.


Bj

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Bob J.

RustyW

Well guys tonight I decided the saw is no longer safe to use. As there is all of a sudden way to much slop at the arbor. I'm posting a pic so you know what type of saw I'm talking about. As with most small saws I've never been happy with the fence. And when trying to rip a 2'x4' piece of mdf, I have to hold my foot against the stand to keep it from falling over.

I really want a contractor saw.. But my "shop" is about half of a single car garage so theres not alot of room for one. I went to HD and looked at the ridged jobsite saw. It looked good and was more stable then thier contractor saw but takes allmost as much room.

With tax time coming up I will have the funds to buy a saw. So I'm looking for recommendations on smaller saws. Or should I just get the saw I want when I have the money. And just make more room.

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Rusty

If You Want It Bad, You Get It Bad The Worse You Want It, The Worse You Get It

fibertech

Rusty, I believe that your assessment is correct for safety reasons. I was afraid of my old Shopsmith Mark 5 setup until I bought the 520 upgrade. I am now able to expect square and safety. I also have about the same amount of space as you. We are all here because of our routers. I think that most hobbyists will agree that a good table saw is essential. Good luck with finding the machine that fits your needs. -Derek

del schisler

here is the best blade i have used It cuts like nothing else i have used
[url]

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7657-General-Purpose-Woodworking/dp/B00008K2TZ/sr=8-1/qid=1158097776/ref=sr_1_1/002-8745334-9176021?ie=UTF8&s=hi

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del schisler

kp91

Rusty,
My first saw back when I had just half a garage was a RYOBI BT3000. It was a surprisingly capable saw (just a bit loud- almost as loud as a router). It was light enough that when the Mrs. wanted it out of the way I could easily set it on a shelf.

I was able to build a couple of large furniture pieces on it, but it was a little light for big pieces at first.

The key to great cuts with it was a shelf added between the legs with an 80 lb bag of cement on it to give it a steady foundation.

I don't know what the current version of the BT3000 is, but you could try BT3central.com

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Doug
1 John 1:9

RustyW

I could wait no longer. I checked the Lowes website to look at one of the saws I'd had my eyes on. And discovered they had dropped the price on several Delta items. The 36-979 saw was now $404 and the T2 fence was $135. I rearranged the family budget(kids like beans anyway), begged a little, borrowed a little, and went and got it.

At this point it's pretty late, saw is about half way put together. I'm pleased with most of it but, seems like product may have been updated a few times while manual stayed the same. When I get it done I will post a review of how the assembly went and some pics.

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Rusty

If You Want It Bad, You Get It Bad The Worse You Want It, The Worse You Get It