| |
| | Register Now!It appears that you aren't a registered member, click below to instantly register and become a member of the RouterForums.com Community! ** Registration removes majority of the website advertisements ** | |
| ||||||
| Tools and Woodworking Mainly for general woodworking questions and comments you may also come here to ask questions, get advice and share your experience with power tools. |
New Reply |
| | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| | #1 |
| Registered User New Member | I understand the basic need for extension fences for my Miter Gauge but wonder about the several articles I've seen detailing how to build an auxiliary fence that includes stop blocks for accuracy and consistency in crosscutting. Why is this better than using the Rip Fence as a stop block? Isn't that one of the intended uses for the fence and isn't that why there are miter gauge slots on both sides of the blade? Also my table extension is on the right allowing me to make longer cuts without table hangover. What am I missing? |
| | Top - Reply with Quote |
| | |||
| __________________ This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Router Forums | |||
| | #2 |
| Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King | I find it easier to set up stops on my miter guage than using the fence and I also find that for true mitered corners in my box work the stop blocks on the guage are needed. Just easier for me all around but as always, do what you are comfortable with the most. Corey |
| | Top - Reply with Quote |
| | #3 |
| Registered User Forum Geek | Hi:Using the fence as a stop block is dangerous, as it could trap a cut off between the blade and the fence. To use the fence as a stop block a short piece of wood may be used attached to the fence, only ahead of the blade. That allows room for the cut off piece after the cut has been made. A miter gauge and an aux. fence with stops is the safe way to go, when cross cutting on a table saw. Good luck Woodnut65 |
| | Top - Reply with Quote |
| | #4 |
| Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King | Exactly right. Never use the rip fence as your stop block. As your wood passes the blade the stresses in the wood cause it to move, almost as if you were driving a wedge into a log to split it. If the rip fence is used as a stop block this causes a pinch and the wood WILL ride up with the rear of the saw blade at an uncontrollable rate. This spells disaster, ruined wood and an emergency room visit. This wood movement will vary from piece to piece, some will actually move back together causing a bind with similar results. This is why most saws have splitters to hold the wood apart incorporated into the blade guard. Aftermarket splitters are available for situations where a standard blade guard can not be used.
__________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you. |
| | Top - Reply with Quote |
New Reply |
| Bookmarks |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Fence for Oak-Park Table | beemerbob | Table-mounted Routing | 23 | 08-16-2008 05:29 PM |
| Table saw miter guage reccomendation? | Birch | Tools and Woodworking | 12 | 02-02-2008 07:32 AM |
| Router table fence | simplenik | Table-mounted Routing | 12 | 01-25-2008 02:04 PM |
| Questions about Table Saw fence | tmiller | Starting Off | 4 | 04-02-2007 09:05 AM |
| Some Thoughts on Fence Control | Gilbear | Table-mounted Routing | 5 | 12-20-2005 06:38 PM |