Sliding Table Saw with Scoring? - Router Forums

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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Sliding Table Cabinet Saw with Scoring?

I know I'm opening a thread for discussion which will turn up as opinions, likes, dislikes, but that's okay. Here goes.

I have this money coming to me that I have plans to pay off bills, buy an economical work car for Sharon and... a new cabinet saw for myself. Planning on this has been like a teenager lusting after a Lamborgini Countach.

I want a cabinet saw 3+ HP with an independent scoring motor and a sliding table. I want the slider to go to the blade. The scoring blade most be a split type and be able to do dado scoring. I want the miter/crosscut fence for the sliding table that can mounted on either at the rear or the front of the sliding table. I want a sliding table that can handle 48" to be able to do sheet goods, but be setup to be able to do smaller work without it being in the way. To be able to still do ripping. I want a cast iron router table extension. I want a saw that I can use both 10" and 12" blades on. That narrows down the field a little.

I am favoring the Laguna TSS. I know I can get all those features in their saw. With that saw, I can still buy the left table half from the TS saw to have the capability to have a traditional American table to use some of my jigs on. Also with that saw I can get additional sliding table material hold-down clamps. The saw is pricey, but surprisingly it is not the most expensive out there.

I know there's other saws out there. Grizzly has a 10" with scorer that is less than half the price... but it does not have some of the functionality that draws me to the TSS. I see a lot of panel saws with that functionality, but I don't have the work space for a panel saw. I want something in between.

Logistically, I need something available in the US/west coast. There is Grizzly, General, Hammer, Martin, Felder, King and Laguna. All have sliding tables. All are available with scorers. The Altendorf has all that and blade capacity, hydraulic raise, lift and tilt, but has a national debt type of pricing on it of at least twice the price.

Now that it is getting closer to the purchase, I just want to make sure I have info and am making a good informed decision before a purchase like this. I don't want to end up with buyer's remorse because I didn't do my homework... not being able to do something and ending up at a dead end... or ending up having to build something to work around short-comings. I think with his one, it's a reward I want to have for a long time, replacing a saw that I've also had for a long time.

Any insights or recommendations? Soliciting all comers.
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Last edited by MAFoElffen; 09-30-2012 at 11:20 AM.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012, 10:11 AM
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If you end up with one as described, most members, myself included will be drooling for a long time Mike.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012, 10:29 AM
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My personal preference would be saw sled(s) over a sliding table. I think they would be much more flexible overall.

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012, 10:30 AM
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Mike,
Since most of our information on such things come from the internet, personal opinions and etc. I would suggest that you visit local commercial cabinet shops (most hobbyists won't have the cadillac you are talking about) and millwork shops. That way you can get real world opinions. The guys that do woodwork for a living can tell you the good, bad and ugly on such tools. Good luck and I'm jealous....lol
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012, 07:35 PM
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Mike; my only contribution would be to thoroughly check out the dealership network vis-a-vis getting parts and technical info, should you ever need it. Way too often this stuff is sold without any serious backup infrastructure...let the buyer beware.
Think in terms of buying a Maserati, then discovering there isn't a knowledgeable mechanic within 1500 miles. 'Nuff said.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-01-2012, 02:15 PM
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Dan makes a good point. Support on a lot of foreign products is scarce. ie: when living in SC I had a local repair shop for anything in my shop, here in the Knoxville area the resource is there but scattered all over the place.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Mike; my only contribution would be to thoroughly check out the dealership network vis-a-vis getting parts and technical info, should you ever need it. Way too often this stuff is sold without any serious backup infrastructure...let the buyer beware.
Think in terms of buying a Maserati, then discovering there isn't a knowledgeable mechanic within 1500 miles. 'Nuff said.
Right. Made in Bulgaria. Motor is an American Baldor which I'm opting for an upgrade from Baldor 3 HP to a Baldor 4.5 HP. That is as high as I could go without having to go 3-phase. Spare parts are in their main location in California. If a warrantee service, they have been known to fly a tech out to repair. They have a good track record with this saw. If need be, I am very handy with machinery.

I grilled the sales rep. (That is a gross understatement.) I sent him a 5 page email on what I do, the configuration I wanted to end up with, questions on this saw and it's accessories. I told him taht a test of sale's knowledge of their products would show with his answers. I gave him a few days and then called him. I was pleased by his answers. He even talked me out of a few options and accessories,, as they wouldn't give me the return on my use or wouldn't fit me.

Each TS/TSS saw is custom built for each customer. They usually don't have them in a warehouse, except the ones they plan to sell at trade shows (And they sold out at the last in Atlanta). The purchase is a 3 month lead time after order for the delivery. Drawback on the custom made- tune of blade alignment is not via the trunions... rather by the saw table. At factory it is set and aligned with pins between the frame and table. (I think this is a strenght in a heavy cabinet saw) If later that adjustment is off, the pins have to be driven out of the way to be able to move the table into adjustment. Only one saw has ever needed that so far.

Just got the quote back Friday night on what I want as a package deal:
LAGUNA TSS Sliding Table Saw with Scoring
- 1PH 4.5HP SHORT SHAFT LT16HD-LT20
- TS/TSS Tablesaw Mobilty Kit
- HOLD-DOWN CLAMP FOR TSS, 9', SHAPER
- Accessory - Tablesaw telescoping for 24" fence for TSS Adds 24" to existing fence This includes the end piece to hold the wood
24" Crosscut Fence for TSS
- Angle extension table For TS, TSS, 2700 Pro
- Clip on support table TSS/TSS 9'
- Positive Stop Miter Support Table, Must also order Pivot Post*Movable frame w/degree stopper
- PIVOT POST for fence to use Miter Support Table
- Accessory - Straight Line Rip Bracket
- Accessory - Fence Stop (spring loaded)
- Accessory - Flip Stop
- Accessory - Tenoning Jig
- Carbide Tipped Split Scoring Blade - 120mm x 20mm x 24t
- Carbide Tipped Split Scoring Blade - 120mm x 20mm x 12t
- Tablesaw Dado Shim Sets for TS/TSS)/TS 9'/ 4',6', 9' Pro
- Dado Scoring Shim Sets for TS/TSS)/TS 9'/ 4',6', 9' Pro
- Accessory - Other 8" Dado Set x 30mm bore x 40T
- Accessory - Tablesaw SB CT ATB 10" X 5/8" X 60T
- Accessory - Tablesaw SB CT ATB 10" X 5/8" X 80T
- Accessory - Tablesaw Glue Line Rip 12" X 30mm X 36T
- Accessory - Tablesaw Triple Chip 12" X 30mm X 100T

Some things they discounted or threw in. The blades are Professional/Industrial. Notice on the 12" blades and dado's they go with 30mm bore. My 12" blades are 1" but the TSS is 5/8" arbor. I planned on using the 5/8" to 1" bushings I have. I have questions on their choice of 30mm bores. To use on their 12" blades and dado stack on this saw, I'm assuming 5/8" to 30mm bushings, which for a dado stack with that bore, might be a challenge. So I may pass on their finish dado stack which they were discounting from $475 to $275)... Unless they have a good explanation or an easier way.

Since I also know how to and end up easier to do tenons on a sliding table laying the work down on the slider and dadoing them in... I might also pass on the tenoning jig.

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Last edited by MAFoElffen; 10-14-2012 at 02:49 PM.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 05:03 PM
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Well done, That Man!
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 05:17 PM
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Hi Mike. After reading your last post, I moved my saw into a corner under a cover......(just kidding).

That sound like a great saw and should last a lifetime.

On the 5/8" or 30mm bore. The stacked dado set I was looking at (CMT) comes with a 5/8" or 30 MM bore, so this size may be common on European saws.

James
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAFoElffen View Post
Drawback on the custom made- tune of blade alignment is not via the trunions... rather by the saw table. At factory it is set and aligned with pins between the frame and table.
With a quality cabinet saw, the blade to miter is adjusted by moving the table.
My Steel City is built like that. That's not a drawback, that's a plus.

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