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Old 10-31-2004, 07:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustmaster
The first one was a Freud bit, the second one was a cheaper one. The Freud one did last longer, unfortunately, it's hard to get to the shop that carries those to replace it as I usually seem to break them on a Sunday
I have never tried the Freud bits but in this case I guess lasting a bit longer is not much of a selling point. I know what you mean about things happen on Sundays, maybe that is not a good day to be routing on?

Well I hope some of the advice given above helps out and the both of us stop breaking 1/8" bits. Let us know how it goes OK?

Ed
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Old 10-31-2004, 09:07 PM   #12
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Ed

If this chair has been in an attic for years, any panels are probably dry and brittle. Better to do them all now rather than one and have another fail later.
I like using a cutout tool for the smaller base. It's able to get closer to other frame members. Unless I have to repair/reglue a piece of furniture beyond the caning, I normally don't disassemble other than removing uphoulstered seats.

I'm assuming you know how to prep the spline and cane, put it in and how to keep it in while it dries and shrinks. Again, if you don't do it right, it can pull itself out of the groove while it dries. Not intending to scare anyone off, as it's not difficult, long as you go through the right steps here.

Paul
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Old 10-31-2004, 10:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reible
maybe that is not a good day to be routing on?

Well I hope some of the advice given above helps out and the both of us stop breaking 1/8" bits. Let us know how it goes OK?

Ed
Too many toys, not enough time :-( Only day I have is Sunday

I finished making the grooves today after getting a replacement bit. I went really slow and also ensured the bit was down as far as possible in the collet without actually touching the bottom. Because the bit is so small, some of the cutting edge was lost down the collet. For some reason this looked wrong to me and I had pulled the bit up higher out of the collet. After looking it over I thought this might have had something to do with the bits breaking.

Thanks everyone for the info.
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Old 11-01-2004, 09:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcbph
Ed

If this chair has been in an attic for years, any panels are probably dry and brittle. Better to do them all now rather than one and have another fail later.
I like using a cutout tool for the smaller base. It's able to get closer to other frame members. Unless I have to repair/reglue a piece of furniture beyond the caning, I normally don't disassemble other than removing uphoulstered seats.

I'm assuming you know how to prep the spline and cane, put it in and how to keep it in while it dries and shrinks. Again, if you don't do it right, it can pull itself out of the groove while it dries. Not intending to scare anyone off, as it's not difficult, long as you go through the right steps here.

Paul
OK, I know nothing about how to do the job except I have a good idea how to get the old out from your posting. I was looking at a catalog today and saw a pattern that looks much like I remember the existing one has and I saw they sell a chisel for removing the old spine and of course they have new spline. It looks like I have to get the chair down to see the size of the spline groove to know what to buy.

If you have the time I'd love to hear your caner's instructions. I'm sure it will save me from having to waste too much time and supplies on a "messed up job". I'd love to have the chair to set in again.

Ed
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:17 PM   #15
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I just put together a quick doc on how I cane a panel in a chair. It's just under 7 mb in zipped format. PM me with an email address if you want a copy and I'll send it out in a few days to anyone that wants a copy. It's mostly pictures with brief desciption on how to do it. It's not the only way to cane but it's the way I've done it for many years.
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Old 11-04-2004, 10:16 PM   #16
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For small cutters I have always use a few milling machine cutters I used to use when working in a toolroom.
We used to mill 5% chrome steel for which a 3 flute cutter was best.
Something I havent seen for some years is an FC3 cutter which were harder than normal HSS cutters so lasted longer and were then thrown away instead of regrinding.
These FC3 cutters were only made in small diameters with the largest being 1/4".
HSS milling cutters hold their edge well and I have been using the cutters in my toolbox for a few years in my router.
When they get blunt I wont hesitate in going to a milling cutter maker and buying some more.
Swarf clearance and finish is far better with an HSS cutter than any TC router cutter.
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Old 11-16-2004, 08:45 PM   #17
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Hi hcbph:
I have an old gunstock chair that goes way back in my wife's family which has a cane seat that has seen better days.
My wife would sure like to have a go at it.
So would you send me the doc please. It would be much apreciated.
moadamd@primus.ca
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Old 11-21-2004, 09:06 PM   #18
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Just saw your request. I'll see about getting it out this week. Good luck on your chair.
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Old 11-25-2004, 09:55 PM   #19
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Maurice

Tried sending you the doc and it came back. I tried.
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