dustmaster

I am attempting to build some XMas presents and am attempting to do some inlay. I bought a couple of 1/8 spiral bits and have been working with Maple trying to cut a simple little 1/8 by 1/8 groove. I have broken two bits so far. I have gone slow and tried to be gentle. What am I doing wrong?

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reible

I've broken I think 3 bits in the last couple of years. One was a 1/2" stg bit I dropped and TWO 1/8" spiral bits. Both times I think I was trying to take to deep a cut, in both cases it started to vibrate but before I could do anything else they broke. Each time I went back and finished the project using a new bit and lighter cut.

If anyone else has any ideas please let us know, I think I payed about $14 each for those.......

Ed

hcbph

I suspect either too fast a cut or too deep a cut, or a combination of both. I use an 1/8" solid carbide spiral bit to cut splines out of caning every few days. Too fast or too deep and they break off every time. The last one I've been using for over a year without any breakage.

reible

I have a chair that needs caning (up in the attic for about 5 years now) but I never thought about using a router to get the old spline out. Would you mind posting a few details like how you hold the router in location and so on?

Also would you mind tell us who makes the bit(s) you use? If you would rather not say that is OK too.

Thanks for the responce,

Ed

template tom

Increase the speed of the cutter and reduce the speed of cutting.
Tom

Woodnut65

I would try taking cuts no more than 1/16th of an inch deep or so, to get down to the 1/8th depth you need. All bits are not created equal, cheaper bits just don't hold up what make bits are you buying?
Hope this helps, Woodnut65

hcbph

Ed

First off, if the spline comes out without effort, that's the best way. Otherwise you want to cut through the old spline so you can get it out with a minimum of damage to the piece of furniture.

I use a cutout tool like this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...unction=Search
Get a 1/8" spiral carbide bit (I like using the 1/8" shank bits). I've gotten them through Grizzly, no complaints there.
First take an exacto knife to cut along both sides of the spline to seperate it from the wooden frame.
I start off with the bit set about 1/8"-3/16" exposure. Start in one corner and carefully control the tool as it has a tendency to pull if you're not careful. Once you're gotten it around, use a chisel and peel some of the spline out. Lower the bit and go around again, cutting deeper till you cut through the old spline. Once it's cut through, if it comes out easy, so much the better. If it doesn't pour a little white vinegar into the slot you've cut and let it soak a while. It will loosen up the old glue. Take an exacto knife and cut an X from corner to corner through the old cane. Peel the old cane back and it will usually come out fairly easy.

I use a sharp chisel, a commercial spline removing tool and another one I made specifically for the work I do. I have used this in redoing probably 200+ cane panels over the last few years and as the saying goes: "It works for me".

You need to use care with the cutout tool. It wants to pull to the side if you're not careful. Working counter clockwise is best, if you slip, it
cuts to the inside of the spline groove. I brace it carefully with one finger hooked over the edge of the piece. You have to determine your own speed, too slow and it can burn (as in smoldering) and too fast or deep and you break the bit.

Then it's a matter of putting in the new cane, staining and sealing it and you're done, but that's another story.

By the way, is you need guidance in how to install the new cane, shoot me an email.

Pauol

dustmaster

The first one was a Freud bit, the second one was a cheaper one. The Freud one did last longer, unfortunately, it's hard to get to the shop that carries those to replace it as I usually seem to break them on a Sunday

hcbph

I just noticed that shortcut I posted was no good. Try http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42831

Any cutout type tool with a solid, adjustable base and preferably with both a 1/8" and 1/4" collet is good. The smaller the base, the closer it can get to other pieces ( eg. caning a back on a chair that is close to the seat rail).

You can use a laminate or other router, you just can't get in a s close to those restricted area around rails or arms.

reible

So if I read all this correctly, if I'm lucky the process will be very easy and at worst I have a major job ahead. I have a rotozip (actually two of them) so they would work better then the laminate router which I also have?

I will print up these measages and then when I feel up to it I'll get the chair down and see if I get lucky or not.

By the way do you disassemble the chair to get at the seat? And if the seat and back are the same age should I also replace the seat back while I'm at it?

Ed