simplenik

Good day

I would like to share with you the way that I cut frame members at 45°.

Instead of messing-up with angles and protractors, I used big drafting triangle.

To overcome any small deviations from 45° or 90° of the blade, I'm using the Left and Right cutting method.

I cut all the members to "Final dimensions" (see Note) and the stop (or Limiter) is positioned at the front to eliminates the need for long fences or pencil lines.

Note: because the stop is located at the front, every cut will decrease the frame member length by ½ kerf width, and because we are cutting each member from both sides, each member will be shorten by one kerf width.
If you are using a 1/8" kerf blade, add 1/8" to the "Final dimension" of each member to get your planned dimension after cutting.

At the end, I added 2 pics of the new version with the plywood triangle and hold down clamps.

Regards
niki

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Joe Lyddon

Niki,

I thought that looked familiar... good job...

http://www.woodworkstuff.net/NikiMtr.html

bobj3

Hi niki

I like it but I don't get it , why not just use a Compound Miter saw
They make many kinds and at sell them at many diff.. prices most are right on the button ..some come with red lazer guide lines...just to make sure you get it right on the 1st.cut.
No protractors needed most have all the setting you need and are built in...and some will cut up to 16" wide stock.. on the compound of just a standard 45+ deg.

Here are just some of them ▼
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_/1...3&Go.y=9&Go=Go
10" DeWalt is going for 168.00 -30.oo Spec.deal,

When I need to make some of the hard cuts I turn to the Radio Arm Saw and it has some extra guides to do it with.
see below

Bj

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simplenik

Joe
Correct, but you don't have the last two picture

BJ
"I like it..."
That's already good

"why not just use a Compound Miter saw"
I don't have one and the good ones are very expensive here.
Besides, my router table is "retractable" because of space problem...The only thing that is not "foldable" is my TS but it's on wheels and at the end of the day I have to push it to the wall so the car can get in.

Your "Radio arm saw" is very nice and you made a beautiful set-up there...Those "Rabbit ears" are very good idea but I've seen them only on your set-up (long time ago).

Regards
niki

harrysin

What you have shown us Joe is that Niki is a published author, not surprising really, I mentioned in a previous post that he should publish a book, he has all the material with photo-shoots. This latest idea whilst well produced is one that I have used for several years and is used by Triton. It's past my bedtime now so I shall respond in depth tomorrow.

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Harry

challagan

Very nice Niki. I used the same method to create a miter sled with 1 x 3 fences standing on edge. The nice thing about this method is that if you cut one side of the miter on one side and the mating on the other, they will be a perfect match together. I used wood runners and they moved so I basically had to throw it away. I will make another sled with different runners.

Corey

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harrysin

Good morning everyone from chilly but sunny Western Australia. Last night I mentioned that I have been using a similar method to Niki's for making mitres over the last 25 or more years, I in no way intended to downplay his very precision version of the method which as always was beautifully presented. I show below the rather crude version which I used with reasonable success until I bought the Triton set-up in 2000. Compared to many other table saws the Triton looks rather crude, but in fact is capable of first class work and the mitre gauge method of making mitres is accurate, as George pointed out,so long as the gauge itself is an accurate 90deg. it doesn't matter if it is set slightly out because the smaller angle will be complimented by the larger angle ie; the angle will add up to 90deg.

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challagan

Harry the sled I had made was much like your design here. I made my first mitered boxes this way and the corners were dead on. I used some pine runners for the tables miter slots and they moved over the winter and I couldn't even get the darn thing to slide thru the tracks so I had to trash it. I will make a new one.

I have not seen the Triton table saw before. Very interesting design. Thanks for the photos.

Corey

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simplenik

Hi Harry

I know the Triton from the times that I lived in Japan.

What I could not understand is, how you are positioning the board, I mean, how do you make sure that the 2 and 2 boards will be the same length after cutting the miter. I think that on the 4th pic I could see a pencil line.
Is the pencil line the reference or you are using also some kind of stop.

If you noticed on my pictures, I'm using a "stop" or "limiter" that helps to position all the 4 boards at the same reference to the blade (I don't make any pencil lines).

The sled itself is nothing new nor the "left"/"right cutting method.
The difference is my method of accurately positioning the boards with the help of the "stop" or "limiter" without any pencil lines, and by that, getting all the boards (2 and 2) at the exactly same length that is very important for the frame to come out square.

What I was trying to do is, to eliminate the need for marking because 0.5 mm here and 0.5 mm there can make all the difference if the frame will come out square (and the miters tight) or not.

Best Regards mate
niki

harrysin

Niki, I normally do use pencil lines but if I wasn't so lazy, this is how I would do it! I do hope that you don't think that I was in any way attempting to steal you're thunder, I did remark how precision you're version is and even, assuming I do have the skills to make one like it I would probably be too lazy to proceed. I'm sure you know that the TRITON is a 100% Australian invention. Finally I'm proud that you called me "mate", the feeling is reciprocated.

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