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Old 07-09-2007, 10:24 AM   #11
lablover
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rib the joists board ???

Not sure what that means??
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Old 07-09-2007, 10:34 AM   #12
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Hi Joe

When you put a wood floor on top of a slab the joists boards need to be undersize that's to say some must be 1 " tall and some need to be 4" tall then the sub plywood base is nailed to them,,, then a floor toping is put on the plywood....

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Quote:
Originally Posted by lablover
rib the joists board ???

Not sure what that means??
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Old 07-09-2007, 10:43 AM   #13
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Ok Cool..Thats what I was going to do....Heading to the borg to get some studs

Bob..You are the man!!!!

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Old 07-09-2007, 10:59 AM   #14
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Bob,

My mind had the ribs going the other direction... wedged...

They would not have a tendancy to slip over & move...

Each board cut would create two ribs...

Just the way my brain works (doesn't work) I guess.

Just a thought...

Good luck Joe... I think you're on the right track... hope so, anyway.
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Old 07-09-2007, 11:23 AM   #15
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Hi Joe

True, but most slabs are not true that's to say one side maybe out of wack just by a bit....or a high point in the center, it's always a long shot in the dark and must be done with strings to get the floor just right..

One can rip the wedge the long way for the outside wall part of the floor then nail into them to get the plumb with the string ....and cut and rip to fit.
the bigger it gets the harder it gets...but a standard 24 ft. x 24ft should be duck soup....the hard part if the small door that opens to the inside of the garage like most do....it takes a reframe most of the time...unless it a step down type from the house...like some are....6" drop or more...to the slab...




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Originally Posted by Joe Lyddon
Bob,

My mind had the ribs going the other direction... wedged...

They would not have a tendancy to slip over & move...

Each board cut would create two ribs...

Just the way my brain works (doesn't work) I guess.

Just a thought...

Good luck Joe... I think you're on the right track... hope so, anyway.
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Old 07-09-2007, 11:39 AM   #16
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That is a HECK of a drop --
I withdraw my comment about cement being easiest -- with that much drop you woud be all but pouring a whole new slab.

You are definitely on the right track -- your biggest challenge will be cutting each 'joist' exactly the right thickness to keep the floor level but piece of twine and a line level will help solve that.
I leveled a badly sunken kitchen floor a few years ago using pretty much that same technique -- and you have the advantage of a solid base.

Good luck - would love to see process pics when you are done.
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Old 07-09-2007, 11:57 AM   #17
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The studs should be run along the angle, not across it. Start by placing a 2x4 against the wall. Set a 2nd 2x4 next to it and have somebody hold the low end up so it is level. Place a mark on the wall at the height of the level 2x4. Run a pencil along the top of the first 2x4 and it will mark exactly what you need to level the floor. Trim the 2x4 on the line and place the wedge against the wall. Next, place a brad or tack in the wall at your mark. Run a string across the opening so it is level and tack in place. Now move over 16" from the first wedge and repeat the 2 board process using the string to reference the "held" 2x4 top edge. This ensures that the floor will be level in spite of any change in the cement. This is Tom Silva's method from This Old House.
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
The studs should be run along the angle, not across it. Start by placing a 2x4 against the wall. Set a 2nd 2x4 next to it and have somebody hold the low end up so it is level. Place a mark on the wall at the height of the level 2x4. Run a pencil along the top of the first 2x4 and it will mark exactly what you need to level the floor. Trim the 2x4 on the line and place the wedge against the wall. Next, place a brad or tack in the wall at your mark. Run a string across the opening so it is level and tack in place. Now move over 16" from the first wedge and repeat the 2 board process using the string to reference the "held" 2x4 top edge. This ensures that the floor will be level in spite of any change in the cement. This is Tom Silva's method from This Old House.
Mike,

Thank you for confirming that my brain does work part of the time...
... and that was such an easy way to do the job!

Thanks again!
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Old 07-09-2007, 03:22 PM   #19
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Hi Mike

That's alot of ripping he will need to do if he needs to start at 1" at on end and needs to end up on the end at 5" lift ....that can be a hard job with a hand powered saw, if it did it the other way he can rip it on the table saw, by using 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 stock and end up with the same thing with less scrap...
and with less work... need to think outside the box on this one

It work great for the butt to butt joints on the plywood (something to nail/screw to)
and a bit more support....

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===========





Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
The studs should be run along the angle, not across it. Start by placing a 2x4 against the wall. Set a 2nd 2x4 next to it and have somebody hold the low end up so it is level. Place a mark on the wall at the height of the level 2x4. Run a pencil along the top of the first 2x4 and it will mark exactly what you need to level the floor. Trim the 2x4 on the line and place the wedge against the wall. Next, place a brad or tack in the wall at your mark. Run a string across the opening so it is level and tack in place. Now move over 16" from the first wedge and repeat the 2 board process using the string to reference the "held" 2x4 top edge. This ensures that the floor will be level in spite of any change in the cement. This is Tom Silva's method from This Old House.
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http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

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Last edited by bobj3; 07-09-2007 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:09 PM   #20
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Guys

Cant tell ya how much I appreciate the help. Spoke to Dad and he said I was nuts for even trying. Too much slope, loose headroom etc.

He recomended what KP did. Think I may go that route. To be honest, todays heat just put me in (NON MOTIVATED) mode. I think I will decide where to put the tools and make a small level base for them. Heck, my workbench is already built to adjust for the slope..Why mess with it.

I will keep these tips handy so come winter time..I may jump into it.

Again, thanks a ton for all the help

BTW..it's about 100 deg here today..aghhhhhhhhhh

Joe
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