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BrianS · 07-18-2007, 05:26 PM

Was doing some work yesterday and needed to make a frame with half-lap joints on the corner. Decided to use the table saw and a stacked dadoe set. Well, I'm glad I planned on putting screws thru the boards because there was no way the half-laps were smooth enough for a strictly glue joint. The frame was for the bottom of the aforementioned tblsaw so pretty wasn't needed as it's just to mount casters to. I'd hate to use this for a good joint... by the time I got done with a chisel to smooth the surface, the joint would have been way off.

I was under the impression that a stacked dadoe set was the way to go to provide a clean, smooth bottom on the dadoe. Do I just have a messed up set of blades, or was I given the wrong information? I also have a wobbler style dadoe blade, but didn't use it because I was told it left an uneven cut.

Brian

**bobj3** · 07-18-2007, 07:30 PM

Hi Brian

Many of the low cost/low end dadoe saw blade sets will do that BUT you can use a trick I use now and then , once you have the lap joint done move the stock from side to side over the blades BUT with care, this will clean up the cut so you can use it for a glue up joint....but you need to under cut the joint by a 1/32" or so ...this will give you some stock to clean up on the last pass sideways...

Most of the lap joints are hard to make or to say hide any errors once your done with them they are wide open for view so to speak...

============

Drugstore Cowboy · 07-18-2007, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobj3

. . .once you have the lap joint done move the stock from side to side over the blades . . .

Ditto Bob's suggestion.
I've never tried a dado blade on my little benchtop saw --
so when I do laps on it -- I make several individual passes - then set my rip fence for a stop and use that same side to side technique -- a little careful sanding and you are have a nice smooth joint.

Strictly as a matter of personal preference -- I prefer routing to using a table saw - because I can see the cut being made.
But it usually comes down to my mood -

**harrysin** · 07-18-2007, 09:20 PM

Routing for half laps every time. A simple one time jig can be made in next to no time or a permanent one in an hour or two.

BrianS · 07-18-2007, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harrysin

Routing for half laps every time. A simple one time jig can be made in next to no time or a permanent one in an hour or two.

This would have been my choice as well, but my current router/table setup consists of a 1/4" shank Craftsman. It works very well, and I've cut several dadoes with it, but in MDF, not real wood. These were just spruce 2x4's, but still harder then MDF. I've got a better one now, just have to cobble the table together and get it mounted.

Do you have any pics of the half lap jig? The permanent one sounds like the good one to me. Might as well invest a bit more time in it but only have to make it once.

Brian

BrianS · 07-18-2007, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobj3

Hi Brian

Many of the lost cost/low end dadoe saw blade sets will do that BUT you can use a trick I use now and then , once you have the lap joint done move the stock from side to side over the blades BUT with care, this will clean up the cut so you can use it for a glue uip joint....but need to under cut the joint by a 1/32" or so ...this will give you some stock to clean up with the last pass sideways...

Interesting idea, will keep that in mind if I use the tblsaw for this again. The dadoe set is a Delta one, and it wasn't cheap. Well, it WAS cheap to me, a friend was moving and filled up my van one day with stuff he didn't want to move. It's not seen much use judjing by the sharpness of it, but maybe that's the reason he didn't want to move it.

Brian

**Mike** · 07-18-2007, 11:59 PM

If you are simply making half lap joints and want a clean surface then do a cheek cut(standing the board on end) at the proper depth and then a shoulder cut to trim off the waste. Quick and clean.

**bobj3** · 07-19-2007, 12:25 AM

Just one more easy and quick way to make lap joints, see below

==============

**harrysin** · 07-19-2007, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianS

This would have been my choice as well, but my current router/table setup consists of a 1/4" shank Craftsman. It works very well, and I've cut several dadoes with it, but in MDF, not real wood. These were just spruce 2x4's, but still harder then MDF. I've got a better one now, just have to cobble the table together and get it mounted.

Do you have any pics of the half lap jig? The permanent one sounds like the good one to me. Might as well invest a bit more time in it but only have to make it once.

Brian

Brian, because I haven't done a half lap for years I don't have a permanent jig, there are lots about, this one is in the Time Life "Shop Made Jigs and Fixtures"
I hope it comes through clear enough to follow and that the copyright cops don't knock on my door.

BrianS · 07-19-2007, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

If you are simply making half lap joints and want a clean surface then do a cheek cut(standing the board on end) at the proper depth and then a shoulder cut to trim off the waste. Quick and clean.

My original plan, and I even spent some time making a tenoning type jig to slide across my rip fence... of course, that was BEFORE I realized that it's extremely difficult, impossible in fact, to make a 3.5" deep cut with an 8" sawblade. Just doesn't work.

Oh well, the jig is made... I'll use it for something else eventually.

Brian

07-18-2007, 05:26 PM	#1
BrianS Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Windsor,Ontario Posts: 317 View BrianS's Gallery	Dadoes with table saw Was doing some work yesterday and needed to make a frame with half-lap joints on the corner. Decided to use the table saw and a stacked dadoe set. Well, I'm glad I planned on putting screws thru the boards because there was no way the half-laps were smooth enough for a strictly glue joint. The frame was for the bottom of the aforementioned tblsaw so pretty wasn't needed as it's just to mount casters to. I'd hate to use this for a good joint... by the time I got done with a chisel to smooth the surface, the joint would have been way off. I was under the impression that a stacked dadoe set was the way to go to provide a clean, smooth bottom on the dadoe. Do I just have a messed up set of blades, or was I given the wrong information? I also have a wobbler style dadoe blade, but didn't use it because I was told it left an uneven cut. Brian __________________ A married man should forget his mistakes. There's no use in two people remembering the same thing!
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07-18-2007, 07:30 PM	#2
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,084 View bobj3's Gallery	Hi Brian Many of the low cost/low end dadoe saw blade sets will do that BUT you can use a trick I use now and then , once you have the lap joint done move the stock from side to side over the blades BUT with care, this will clean up the cut so you can use it for a glue up joint....but you need to under cut the joint by a 1/32" or so ...this will give you some stock to clean up on the last pass sideways... Most of the lap joints are hard to make or to say hide any errors once your done with them they are wide open for view so to speak... ============ __________________ *Router Tables plans FREE, plus more* http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm Router Tip Archive http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Calculators http://www.routerforums.com/dynamic-calculators/ Last edited by bobj3; 07-19-2007 at 02:49 AM.
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07-18-2007, 09:20 PM	#4
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 2,653 View harrysin's Gallery	Routing for half laps every time. A simple one time jig can be made in next to no time or a permanent one in an hour or two. __________________ *Harry*
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07-18-2007, 11:59 PM	#7
Mike Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Detroit, Michigan USA Posts: 3,083 View Mike's Gallery	If you are simply making half lap joints and want a clean surface then do a cheek cut(standing the board on end) at the proper depth and then a shoulder cut to trim off the waste. Quick and clean. __________________ Mike
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07-19-2007, 12:25 AM	#8
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 7,084 View bobj3's Gallery	Just one more easy and quick way to make lap joints, see below ============== Attached Thumbnails __________________ *Router Tables plans FREE, plus more* http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/W...p_projects.htm Router Tip Archive http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html Calculators http://www.routerforums.com/dynamic-calculators/ Last edited by bobj3; 07-19-2007 at 02:39 AM.
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