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Hamlin · 09-26-2007, 06:32 PM

Couldn't you do the same thing with the router and jointer fence? I mean, from the size of wood you're talking about, the router could do the same thing.

I have both but, purchased planer first then the jointer.

Just my 2 cents worth

**challagan** · 09-26-2007, 07:17 PM

Ken, if you mean jointing the edge with the router, absolutely you can.. at least for 3/4 stock you can. I suppose you can do somewhat larger but not sure how safe it is at that point.

Corey

**harrysin** · 09-26-2007, 11:40 PM

"If you plan on doing ANY resawing with a bandsaw (or table saw), the thickness planer is far more important."

HELP! What's happening to me, I actually agree with something that Joe said!!!!!!!!!!!!

del schisler · 09-27-2007, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by challagan

I have gone thru this same process Reikimaster. Still thinking about it. I had a couple bench top jointers and the only decent ones are are the ones with cast iron fences and table. I have had 2 of the aluminum fence ones and there was no way they could be adjusted square. Even had a tech come out on the sears one with a new fence and he could not do it. So they got it back. I found the Delta bench top to be no better and it was twisted. I returned it and gave up on them. Both would flatten a face, the fences were the problems. Some day maybe someone will build a decent benchtop jointer. The Palmagren is one of the few out there right now but I hesitate to call it a benchtop at 100 lbs. and it is a 6 1/8 jointer and gets some good reviews.

I am looking at the Ridgid Jointer and Planer from Home Depot The planer gives virtually snipe free cuts and has the features of a 500. planer. There was a review recently of these in a recent magazine. For 500 and up planers. the new Craftsman and the Dewalt tied for the editors pick. Great stuff coming from Craftsman these days! I have gone back and forth on this for the last 15 years on which to get. I have gotten along without them for years. I now concentrate on smaller items such as boxes and clocks. I can joint an edge on the router table and I buy reasonably flat stock from a good reliable sources. Since I do mostly smallish items, thickness of stock becomes my main focus ... and milling down thicker stock to thinner stock for box work will take care of a lot of my needs. It is also possible to flatten slightly bowed and crooked stock on a planer with a sled I have been told and have found several jigs on the web to do so.

At this time I am leaning towards a planer for myself. If I do go this route I do want to get a jointer in the future... but if I do so it will require further shop remodels. Nothing is better than the dedicated tool to do the job right and quickly, but you can find other ways with in a budget. I also plan to learn how to flatten stock the old fashioned way.... with hand planes and scrapers. If I can invest in some decent planes and learn how to use them properly, I may never need a jointer for my box work. We will see.

Woodworking is an adventure.. enjoy it which ever route you go!

Corey

I have both the Ridgid Jointer and Planer from Home Depot They are worth the price The jointer out of the box was right on Only had to adjuct the fence the degree's and that was it The planer out of the box was right on the lock down bed work's very well No snip If i watch out what i am doing If you get a little snip Just make a light pass All gone i plan on doing a lite pass on the last pass thro any way del

reikimaster · 09-27-2007, 09:29 AM

I can see this is a "round and round" topic. Lots of valid opinions. I really can see that having both would be great. Here's part of a discussion I had with a local woodworker...

"If you only ever do very small projects, you probably don't need either."
--he said this because he knows I have a limited-size shop area and have been doing small projects and carving--

"If, however, you want to glue up panels.... for table tops or even the sides of larger pieces, having both is very helpful. That being said, once you get into these larger dimensions of lumber, a 6" jointer isn't going to face plane a 7 or 8 inch board. So now you're talking about an 8" jointer/planer. You'll need to lay out a significantly larger amount of cash for one of those. So now your 6" jointer is relegated to edge jointing only. And you still need to face plane. Most 6" jointers are actually 6-1/8", so while they can handle a 6" board, they are really pushing it when face planing that width.

A good 12.5 or 13 inch planer will do those widths all day long. And you can edge joint with your jointer plane. It'll take longer than using a jointer, but you can get perfectly spectacular results.
-- I've edge jointed with my hand plane already. It does work very well --
If you think you're going to make wonderful, straight, perfect edges on a jointer just because it's a machine, right from the get-go, you won't. It takes setup, patience, and trial and error to some extent to get it set up for high quality edge jointing. And you really want a long bed...the longer, the better, so there's a few more bucks even on a 6" jointer. You've already done as well with your hand plane. I've seen it. It just takes longer. Are you a production shop? -- No --
So based on the kind of work you're moving toward, and the wood that you have available now and want to get your hands on. I'd say, get a planer. You're still going to have to be selective about the wood you bring home. A planer won't remove a really bad twist. But then.... a 6" jointer isn't going to work magic on a bad twist either. And it won't face plane a 6 and a half inch board. A planer will take up less room when it's not doing anything. But don't let that fool you. Either one of these is going to need infeed and outfeed clearance.
And while you're shopping.... get a real table saw, will ya?
-- He hates my Ryobi BTS15... hehehhe --

So that's where I am at the moment. Tough decision. But the planer is currently winning.

Joe Lyddon · 09-27-2007, 11:12 AM

Don't forget... planer sleds / jigs can be made to handle those small pieces you work with as well as handle badly "twisted" wood...

I think you've decided on a planer...

Congratulation!

**bobj3** · 09-27-2007, 02:38 PM

Hey Joe

Lets say I'm from Missouri , so me ,,,,

( Forest WW II blade )

Rip some oak that is 1 1/2" to 2" thick on a 45 deg. about 2 ft.. long lets say then cut some plastic 1/8" to 1/2" thick, then take a picture of the cut(s) and post it...

Don't cheat just post the snapshot....

I have not used a Forest WW II blade and I would like to see what it can do with some hardwood on a 45, most will burn the stock...and put in some saw marks.

=======

09-26-2007, 06:32 PM	#21
Hamlin Registered User Supreme Forum King Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Baldwin City, KS First Name: Ken Posts: 1,574 View Hamlin's Gallery	Report This Post! Couldn't you do the same thing with the router and jointer fence? I mean, from the size of wood you're talking about, the router could do the same thing. I have both but, purchased planer first then the jointer. Just my 2 cents worth __________________ Ken "A VETERAN" "Whether active duty, retired, national guard or reserve - is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America", for an amount of "up to and including my life". That is HONOR, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it." -Author Unknown
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09-26-2007, 07:17 PM	#22
challagan Retired Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Iowa Posts: 4,002 View challagan's Gallery	Report This Post! Ken, if you mean jointing the edge with the router, absolutely you can.. at least for 3/4 stock you can. I suppose you can do somewhat larger but not sure how safe it is at that point. Corey __________________ My Carving Website: The Iowa Woodcarver http://iowacarver.tripod.com/ My Shop Website - Woodshop 51503 http://woodshop51503.tripod.com/
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09-26-2007, 11:40 PM	#23
harrysin Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Western Australia Posts: 3,327 View harrysin's Gallery	Report This Post! "If you plan on doing ANY resawing with a bandsaw (or table saw), the thickness planer is far more important." HELP! What's happening to me, I actually agree with something that Joe said!!!!!!!!!!!! __________________ *Harry*
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09-27-2007, 09:29 AM	#25
reikimaster Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 233 View reikimaster's Gallery	Report This Post! I can see this is a "round and round" topic. Lots of valid opinions. I really can see that having both would be great. Here's part of a discussion I had with a local woodworker... "If you only ever do very small projects, you probably don't need either." --he said this because he knows I have a limited-size shop area and have been doing small projects and carving-- "If, however, you want to glue up panels.... for table tops or even the sides of larger pieces, having both is very helpful. That being said, once you get into these larger dimensions of lumber, a 6" jointer isn't going to face plane a 7 or 8 inch board. So now you're talking about an 8" jointer/planer. You'll need to lay out a significantly larger amount of cash for one of those. So now your 6" jointer is relegated to edge jointing only. And you still need to face plane. Most 6" jointers are actually 6-1/8", so while they can handle a 6" board, they are really pushing it when face planing that width. A good 12.5 or 13 inch planer will do those widths all day long. And you can edge joint with your jointer plane. It'll take longer than using a jointer, but you can get perfectly spectacular results. -- I've edge jointed with my hand plane already. It does work very well -- If you think you're going to make wonderful, straight, perfect edges on a jointer just because it's a machine, right from the get-go, you won't. It takes setup, patience, and trial and error to some extent to get it set up for high quality edge jointing. And you really want a long bed...the longer, the better, so there's a few more bucks even on a 6" jointer. You've already done as well with your hand plane. I've seen it. It just takes longer. Are you a production shop? -- No -- So based on the kind of work you're moving toward, and the wood that you have available now and want to get your hands on. I'd say, get a planer. You're still going to have to be selective about the wood you bring home. A planer won't remove a really bad twist. But then.... a 6" jointer isn't going to work magic on a bad twist either. And it won't face plane a 6 and a half inch board. A planer will take up less room when it's not doing anything. But don't let that fool you. Either one of these is going to need infeed and outfeed clearance. And while you're shopping.... get a real table saw, will ya? -- He hates my Ryobi BTS15... hehehhe -- So that's where I am at the moment. Tough decision. But the planer is currently winning.
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09-27-2007, 11:12 AM	#26
Joe Lyddon Banned Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Alta Loma, CA USA Posts: 2,168 View Joe Lyddon's Gallery	Report This Post! Don't forget... planer sleds / jigs can be made to handle those small pieces you work with as well as handle badly "twisted" wood... I think you've decided on a planer... Congratulation!
	Top -

09-27-2007, 02:38 PM	#27
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,273 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Hey Joe Lets say I'm from Missouri , so me ,,,, ( Forest WW II blade ) Rip some oak that is 1 1/2" to 2" thick on a 45 deg. about 2 ft.. long lets say then cut some plastic 1/8" to 1/2" thick, then take a picture of the cut(s) and post it... Don't cheat just post the snapshot.... I have not used a Forest WW II blade and I would like to see what it can do with some hardwood on a 45, most will burn the stock...and put in some saw marks. ======= __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J. Last edited by bobj3; 09-27-2007 at 02:41 PM.
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