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Joe Lyddon · 10-13-2007, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobj3

Hi vapochilled

The key is to have a good SHARP Blade and the blade is tension right that's to say it must be tight,,,do this to check it put a sq. in a wooden clamp set it right next to the blade, the blade should move just about a 1/4" when you push on it...if it moves more than that retension the blade and then try it..

===============

Vapochilled,

DO NOT follow those instructions!

One cannot arbitrarily say 1/4" or anything else... NOT given the total distance from the bearings to the table!

I suggest getting a manual for YOUR machine to be sure you're getting it right.

There is also an old saying that if you pluck the blade, it should sound like a C note... but which C... plus, you have to have a good ear.

A 1/4" give, for a short distance, would not even yield a bass note and would be no where close to the proper tension needed.

Don't take any chances... get your manual... and be careful.

Have fun with your Band saw... you will like it!

reikimaster · 10-13-2007, 01:26 PM

Old school (cause I'm old)...

Open the throat on your band saw. Back off the guides a LOT. Make sure your blade runs true on your wheels before you tension. Tension your blade so it's CLOSE be you know it's too loose.

Turn on the saw.

That blade will vibrate side to side like crazy. The saw will be noisy. Now add tension while watching the blade. You'll hit a spot where the bounce will disappear and the saw will SING. I'm not kidding. The sound changes and as hard as this is to describe, you will have no doubt in your mind when you get it. It's that obvious. Now your blade is tensioned correctly. Now bring your guides in carefully so you don't shove that blade around. Sounds complicated, but actually takes less than a minute. This assumes that your tires are in good shape and that you can easily move your guides (which you should be able to do).

As far as cutting a straight line.... let your saw tell you what's straight. You'll want to mark a line on a reasonably long piece of material ABOUT the density of what you're intending to cut. Set your fence if you're using one, square to the blade so that you can cut on that line (you're cutting the LENGTH of a piece... I usually use one about 18" long). Start your saw and start cutting. What happens? Is it traveling off that line so you're cutting a taper? ANGLE YOUR FENCE! to match that taper. That's the angle that blade wants to cut at naturally. Don't fight the blade... USE it.. listen to it.

Oh you can crank tension so you can pluck that blade like a banjo string and you can come pretty darn close to making it cut straight with everything set at right angles. But you usually have to over-tension to do that. And on a small bandsaw, you probably won't get there at all. Some blades will naturally cut straight. I've only had a few of those.

I've been setting band saws this way for YEARS and so far it's worked every single time.

**bobj3** · 10-13-2007, 01:30 PM

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========
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vapochilled

"bobj3 thank you!
The manual says for the blade supplied, tighten till the spring takes, then two turns.
Not knowing any different thats what I did.
had about 3/4 side movement.
Tightened till I got a 1/4 and it now cuts very nice.
Still think a iwide blade will help, but now it's great"

By the way JOEY what brand name of band saw do you have ?????

===========
===========
===========

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Lyddon

Vapochilled,

DO NOT follow those instructions!

One cannot arbitrarily say 1/4" or anything else... NOT given the total distance from the bearings to the table!

I suggest getting a manual for YOUR machine to be sure you're getting it right.

There is also an old saying that if you pluck the blade, it should sound like a C note... but which C... plus, you have to have a good ear.

A 1/4" give, for a short distance, would not even yield a bass note and would be no where close to the proper tension needed.

Don't take any chances... get your manual... and be careful.

Have fun with your Band saw... you will like it!

Drugstore Cowboy · 10-13-2007, 01:31 PM

Thanks -
I admit to knowing next to nothing about band saws.
I had only used two others -- one in HS wood shop and one in a furniture factory one summer. Both of those were monsters -- and all I had to know about either was where the power button was and how to follow a line.

I had read the recommendation to take the tension off when it wasnt being used ---
I figured the reasoning behind this was that a spring under constant tension would loose its 'spring' Hadn't thought about the blade stretching.

I knew this one had likely been under tension 24/7 for months.
To the point that there was apparently a weak spot on the lower tire.
About the third time I cut with it -- the tire snapped.

Anyway -- sounds like the first thing I should try is a new blade.
Thanks again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobj3

Hi Cowboy

1/8" blades can be tricky to keep running true,,,they get bigger as time goes on,,,, they can't take the full load of the spring the norm and if they sit for a long time with the load on them they will get bigger

You should always take the load off at the end of the day after you use them and they can't take the heat from cutting hardwood...if you look at the blade and you see that BLUE color in the blade other than the weld spot ,WELL...

It maybe time to replace the one you have with a new one, it may cut like a almost new one but if it goes off the line well it's not much good for what you want to use it for...

Springs are springs and it's hard to damage one with just a load on it now if they get hot well it maybe time to replace it also...they do make hvy.duty springs but they are for the bigger band saws and are made for resawing the norm..the welds on 1/8" blades like to snap if the load is to high..bearing work best for 1/8" band saws blades other than the rub/cool blocks, you can get kits for most of the band saws to put bearing in for the guide blocks...guide blocks do like to take the edge off the blade and will do it if hits it one time, it's gone in a heart beat...

=======

**challagan** · 10-13-2007, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob N

Here is a link to a great video on tuning your bandsaw properly. It may be the one Corey already posted, but if not this is well worth the time watching.

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...your-band-saw/

Vapo yes, watch the video shown on the link Bob Noles posted. Doug Hicks of Woodsmith Magazine shows how to tune up the bandsaw and also how to test for the proper tension using the 1/4 deflection method. Doug has used a band saw for years and uses a lot of 1/8 and 1/16 blades in his castles. He gives some great tips on how to choose the proper blade for the job as well.

Corey

Joe Lyddon · 10-13-2007, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reikimaster

Old school (cause I'm old)...

Open the throat on your band saw. Back off the guides a LOT. Make sure your blade runs true on your wheels before you tension. Tension your blade so it's CLOSE be you know it's too loose.

Turn on the saw.

That blade will vibrate side to side like crazy. The saw will be noisy. Now add tension while watching the blade. You'll hit a spot where the bounce will disappear and the saw will SING. I'm not kidding. The sound changes and as hard as this is to describe, you will have no doubt in your mind when you get it. It's that obvious. Now your blade is tensioned correctly. Now bring your guides in carefully so you don't shove that blade around. Sounds complicated, but actually takes less than a minute. This assumes that your tires are in good shape and that you can easily move your guides (which you should be able to do).

As far as cutting a straight line.... let your saw tell you what's straight. You'll want to mark a line on a reasonably long piece of material ABOUT the density of what you're intending to cut. Set your fence if you're using one, square to the blade so that you can cut on that line (you're cutting the LENGTH of a piece... I usually use one about 18" long). Start your saw and start cutting. What happens? Is it traveling off that line so you're cutting a taper? ANGLE YOUR FENCE! to match that taper. That's the angle that blade wants to cut at naturally. Don't fight the blade... USE it.. listen to it.

Oh you can crank tension so you can pluck that blade like a banjo string and you can come pretty darn close to making it cut straight with everything set at right angles. But you usually have to over-tension to do that. And on a small bandsaw, you probably won't get there at all. Some blades will naturally cut straight. I've only had a few of those.

I've been setting band saws this way for YEARS and so far it's worked every single time.

These are the best instructions given so far, IMHO.

One thing to mention... if your blade has large amount of drift in it, check to be sure the blade is in the CENTER of the tires and not more forward or backward off of Center.

I have a Grizz.. G0555 w/ risers... Works great! This machine and the Router are my two favorite machines I own.

Oh, Bobby j3 baby... what kind of BS do YOU have??

(I'm not sure if I saw one in your shop or not...)

The point I was trying to make is:
A 1/4" deflection in the middle of a 12" length of blade is one thing...
A 1/4" deflection in the middle of a 6" length of the blade is another...

So, just becareful with the machine you have...

**bobj3** · 10-13-2007, 06:44 PM

Ok Joey

I will show you mind now you SHOW me yours

and I do mean SHOW me yours...

,, not a Grizzly number
and I call you...

http://www.routerforums.com/55077-post12.html
http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...-shop-7516.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/55029-post1.html

=============

**Bob** · 10-13-2007, 06:57 PM

Now Bj, I know they say brush your teeth regularly, but this is extreme.....

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...-shop-7540.jpg

... and I love it

vapochilled · 10-13-2007, 07:06 PM

do you two wanna get a room?

Thanks for all the help, I've been "playing" all day. The blade does indeed have a natural drift, towards the front of the table.
I simply clamp a straight edge and kicked the end over a little to compensate.
Ran a cut through a piece of trim molding, abot 3" high, seemed to do it ok.
I will pick up a wide blade for resawing, but this saw really does not have the oomf for ripping 2x Maple
But I can see a use for it, since I setup the blade better, it does cut very nice curves.
like any tool, and I know this, it will take lots of fire wood to learn it's in's and out's. Not expecting miracles from it, but it will be another tool I can call on.
I am a member of a few forums, but the advice I get here is the best, and the merry banter is a good thing too.

**bobj3** · 10-13-2007, 07:12 PM

Hi Bob

Many want to know why the blade will not track right and saw dust on the tire will build up and fill up with pitch and the blade can't stay on the dead center of the wheel...

I saw this tip on one of the videos but all I had on hand was a tooth brush and I said OK lets make them work...

The one on the bottom wheel is about the same setup but I was able to bend it and a right angle to the wheel because there is a bit more room below...

Works great to keep the tire clean..

and keep the blade tracking true...

============

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob N

Now Bj, I know they say brush your teeth regularly, but this is extreme.....

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...-shop-7540.jpg

... and I love it

10-13-2007, 01:26 PM	#12
reikimaster Registered User Forum Geek Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 233 View reikimaster's Gallery	Report This Post! Old school (cause I'm old)... Open the throat on your band saw. Back off the guides a LOT. Make sure your blade runs true on your wheels before you tension. Tension your blade so it's CLOSE be you know it's too loose. Turn on the saw. That blade will vibrate side to side like crazy. The saw will be noisy. Now add tension while watching the blade. You'll hit a spot where the bounce will disappear and the saw will SING. I'm not kidding. The sound changes and as hard as this is to describe, you will have no doubt in your mind when you get it. It's that obvious. Now your blade is tensioned correctly. Now bring your guides in carefully so you don't shove that blade around. Sounds complicated, but actually takes less than a minute. This assumes that your tires are in good shape and that you can easily move your guides (which you should be able to do). As far as cutting a straight line.... let your saw tell you what's straight. You'll want to mark a line on a reasonably long piece of material ABOUT the density of what you're intending to cut. Set your fence if you're using one, square to the blade so that you can cut on that line (you're cutting the LENGTH of a piece... I usually use one about 18" long). Start your saw and start cutting. What happens? Is it traveling off that line so you're cutting a taper? ANGLE YOUR FENCE! to match that taper. That's the angle that blade wants to cut at naturally. Don't fight the blade... USE it.. listen to it. Oh you can crank tension so you can pluck that blade like a banjo string and you can come pretty darn close to making it cut straight with everything set at right angles. But you usually have to over-tension to do that. And on a small bandsaw, you probably won't get there at all. Some blades will naturally cut straight. I've only had a few of those. I've been setting band saws this way for YEARS and so far it's worked every single time.
	Top - Reply with Quote

10-13-2007, 06:44 PM	#17
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,273 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Ok Joey I will show you mind now you SHOW me yours and I do mean SHOW me yours... ,, not a Grizzly number and I call you... http://www.routerforums.com/55077-post12.html http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...-shop-7516.jpg http://www.routerforums.com/55029-post1.html ============= __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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10-13-2007, 06:57 PM	#18
Bob Forum Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Georgia USA Posts: 2,539 View Bob's Gallery	Report This Post! Now Bj, I know they say brush your teeth regularly, but this is extreme..... http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...-shop-7540.jpg ... and I love it __________________ Cheers, Bob
	Top - Reply with Quote

10-13-2007, 07:06 PM	#19
vapochilled Registered User Forum Fanatic Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 146 View vapochilled's Gallery	Report This Post! do you two wanna get a room? Thanks for all the help, I've been "playing" all day. The blade does indeed have a natural drift, towards the front of the table. I simply clamp a straight edge and kicked the end over a little to compensate. Ran a cut through a piece of trim molding, abot 3" high, seemed to do it ok. I will pick up a wide blade for resawing, but this saw really does not have the oomf for ripping 2x Maple But I can see a use for it, since I setup the blade better, it does cut very nice curves. like any tool, and I know this, it will take lots of fire wood to learn it's in's and out's. Not expecting miracles from it, but it will be another tool I can call on. I am a member of a few forums, but the advice I get here is the best, and the merry banter is a good thing too.
	Top - Reply with Quote

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