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Old 10-13-2007, 07:33 PM   #21
challagan
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OK guys, let's get back on track It wouldn't be fair to Vapo to have his thread shut down and closed.

Some very good band saw info posted here. A band saw will be my next purchase. Sounds like you goter set up and humming Vapo!

corey

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Old 10-13-2007, 07:45 PM   #22
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Sorry Vapo

Didn't want to get off track with all the BS if you need any help PLEASE just ask and many of the members will jump in and help..

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Old 10-13-2007, 08:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Sorry Vapo. . .
Didn't mean to hijack --
Sounded like Vapo and I were having almost identical problems -
on almost identical (though differently branded) saws.
Thought the questions kinda 'dovetailed'.
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Old 10-13-2007, 09:16 PM   #24
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Hi Drugstore...

Sounded like that to me... how can you hijack a thread when you have something in common with it? I thought that was the idea... talk about it... the more with the same problem, the better.

I just had to clarify something that I saw that was inaccurate and could be unsafe if explicitly followed.
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Old 10-13-2007, 10:26 PM   #25
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No issues Cowboy, you indeed did have the same problem, like I said some good info in this thread.

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Old 10-14-2007, 10:00 AM   #26
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That was a very interesting band-saw link Bob, I may actually attempt something other than trimming. My big problem, even though I'm well into retirement is that there simply aren't enough hours in the day to do all that I have planned.
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Old 10-19-2007, 05:39 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3
Many want to know why the blade will not track right and saw dust on the tire will build up and fill up with pitch and the blade can't stay on the dead center of the wheel...
============
I bought a new blade -- and went back through all the standard setup as described in the manual (and discussed here). Whether it was the new blade - or whether I was more careful with the setup this time - or both - it does cut a little straighter. Still SOME lead in -- but if I hold tight to the fence and feed slow -- much better than before.

STILL having some tracking trouble.
When I use the straightedge to be sure the wheels are coplanar -- the blade rides to the outside of both wheels.
But to get it to the center of the bottom wheel -- I have to track it almost to the inside edge of the top.

I have replaced the bottom tire (original snapped). I'm wondering if it might not be a good idea to replace the top tire as well. Feeling of it -- it seems to be low on the outside -- where the new tire on the bottom feels pretty flat.

NOTE on brushes -
As inexpensive as this saw was -- one 'extra' feature they did include - was brushes for both the top and bottom tire.
INTERESTINGLY -- the top tire seems to stay clean -- the bottom tire (the new one seems to KEEP a layer of dust along the track of the blade. I can rub it off -- make a couple of cuts and it is back -- stuck tightly to the wheel. Is this as strange as it seems??
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Old 10-19-2007, 06:32 PM   #28
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Cowboy,

INTERESTINGLY -- the top tire seems to stay clean -- the bottom tire (the new one seems to KEEP a layer of dust along the track of the blade. I can rub it off -- make a couple of cuts and it is back -- stuck tightly to the wheel. Is this as strange as it seems??


This would not be strange as 100% of your dust is being forced downward by the blade into the lower wheel well where it accumulates and packs in more so than in the upper section. Even with good DC, a certain amount of this is very normal to some extent.
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Old 10-19-2007, 06:57 PM   #29
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Hi Cowboy

I know the norm is to read the manual and do what they tell you to do BUT not all blades are made the same way, that's to say when they weld them up they are not welded the same way....or the same size as they should be some will be shorter and some will be longer not by much but all it takes is a 1/16" to get it out of Fac. setting,,, that's why I aways recommend crank it up all the way....1/4" thing....

But b/4 you run and use the new blade clean the wheels (belts) I use paint thinner it will remove most of the old tire build up and pitch left on the belt from cutting Pine for one of the woods...plywood for one more...


Then with care turn the wheel by hand and set the wheel/blade to run true with the blade in place, once you have done this and again with flip the power switch on and off to check the blade ,that' it's running on dead center of the wheel(s) then once the blade is running true set the rub blocks or bearings and then off and on with the switch, if it's running true put the guard covers back on and run a test cut with some hardwood, once that's done find a small hone stone and let it ride on the back side of the band saw blade for just a bit...don't push , just let it rub on the blade,(round the back side just a bit) once that's done crank up the blade one more and check it....if it's OK take a marker and mark the knob or threaded rod ... now if you are done with the band saw,back it off... I use a block of wood cut to just the right height so I don't need to play with it when I need to use the band saw again...


==================
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drugstore Cowboy
I bought a new blade -- and went back through all the standard setup as described in the manual (and discussed here). Whether it was the new blade - or whether I was more careful with the setup this time - or both - it does cut a little straighter. Still SOME lead in -- but if I hold tight to the fence and feed slow -- much better than before.

STILL having some tracking trouble.
When I use the straightedge to be sure the wheels are coplanar -- the blade rides to the outside of both wheels.
But to get it to the center of the bottom wheel -- I have to track it almost to the inside edge of the top.

I have replaced the bottom tire (original snapped). I'm wondering if it might not be a good idea to replace the top tire as well. Feeling of it -- it seems to be low on the outside -- where the new tire on the bottom feels pretty flat.

NOTE on brushes -
As inexpensive as this saw was -- one 'extra' feature they did include - was brushes for both the top and bottom tire.
INTERESTINGLY -- the top tire seems to stay clean -- the bottom tire (the new one seems to KEEP a layer of dust along the track of the blade. I can rub it off -- make a couple of cuts and it is back -- stuck tightly to the wheel. Is this as strange as it seems??
__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

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Old 10-19-2007, 09:48 PM   #30
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Bob, didn't understand the block of wood and marking the knob or rod. Can you elaborate a bit more? Are you talking about marking where it is properly tensioned? Don't understand how the block of wood fits in

Corey
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