vapochilled

I picked up a Delta SM400 not really knowing how to use one.
I've squared the table to the blade in all directions, I've put the guide blocks justttttt about touching the blade and have the blade set a whisker above the workpiece.
I've set the mitre gauge square to the table and blade.
But, no matter how slow I go, it will not cut a straight line!
I seem to remember the "beast" we had at school, you throw wood at it, and it would cut a true line! I know it was somewhat better built but!!!!
Now I know you get what you pay for, and the little delta was never meant for cutting walnut logs into 8x2 planks. Please I'm looking for what can I do to improve THIS saw, so it's usable.
I have a small shop and a 9" saw is about as much as I can get in here.
My first though is to swap out the blade to a wider cut, will make straight cuts easier I assume?
Then, the table on this is terrible, how had is it to make a decent table out of say, MDF? or 3/4 ply
What else can I do? I know there's a straight cut in there somewhere,lol

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bobj3

Hi vapochilled

The key is to have a good SHARP Blade and the blade is tension right that's to say it must be tight,,,do this to check it put a sq. in a wooden clamp set it right next to the blade, the blade should move just about a 1/4" when you push on it...if it moves more than that retension the blade and then try it..


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Bj

vapochilled

bobj3 thank you!
The manual says for the blade supplied, tighten till the spring takes, then two turns.
Not knowing any different thats what I did.
had about 3/4 side movement.
Tightened till I got a 1/4 and it now cuts very nice.
Still think a iwide blade will help, but now it's great

curiousgeorge

It could be the blade also. All band saw blades will have a certain amount of lead (pull to one side or the other) caused by the set of the teeth. Some more than others. It's just the nature of the beast.

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George

If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem...

vapochilled

well it is likely to be a cheap blade, I think the saw retails for a hundred, I picked it up for about half that. A decent blade will be about $40?

Drugstore Cowboy

I'm glad I am not the only person having this problem.
Mine is on a basic Ryobi (probably very similar to your Delta)
I first noticed it after I had to replace the tire on the lower wheel - was afraid I had messed something up.

I found the following chart:
http://www.bandsawblade.com/chart.htm
It indicates that blade tension and tooth set (both mentioned in posts here) are two likely culprits two issues.

I'm glad that tightening the tension solved your problem
It hasn't helped me yet
With the tension set until the spring is almost fully compressed (a no-no) I am still having the problem.

Given that this was a display model -- and had probably sat unused but under tension for MONTHS -- is it likely that the spring itself could stand replacing?
Or is the blade (1/8th") a more likely culprit?

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The one who says it can't be done --
Should avoid interrupting
the person doing it.

bobj3

Hi vapochilled

You'er Welcome for the small tip

The blades you can get for band saw are many types and prices ,if you just use the band saw now and then stick with the 1/4" wide one,if you want to make small parts use the 1/8" one if you want to resaw stock get the 3/8" or the 1/2" one ,the wider the blade the straighter the cut but it will put in saw blades marks also...
It's true when the blades get older and used they will walk off to one side but out of the box they should cut true from the get go.

Here's one more tip Corey posted a link for some great videos on line, one was on the Band Saw ( tune up ) it will start a sq. one and go up all the way.

GREAT on line VIDEOs

my link to the videos is not working so I will let Corey post the right URL..

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Found the right one
Podcast #22: Buying & Getting the Most Out of Your Band Saw
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/category/podcast/


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Bj

bobj3

Hi Cowboy

1/8" blades can be tricky to keep running true,,,they get bigger as time goes on,,,, they can't take the full load of the spring the norm and if they sit for a long time with the load on them they will get bigger

You should always take the load off at the end of the day after you use them and they can't take the heat from cutting hardwood...if you look at the blade and you see that BLUE color in the blade other than the weld spot ,WELL...

It maybe time to replace the one you have with a new one, it may cut like a almost new one but if it goes off the line well it's not much good for what you want to use it for...

Springs are springs and it's hard to damage one with just a load on it now if they get hot well it maybe time to replace it also...they do make hvy.duty springs but they are for the bigger band saws and are made for resawing the norm..the welds on 1/8" blades like to snap if the load is to high..bearing work best for 1/8" band saws blades other than the rub/cool blocks, you can get kits for most of the band saws to put bearing in for the guide blocks...guide blocks do like to take the edge off the blade and will do it if hits it one time, it's gone in a heart beat...

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Bj

Bob

Here is a link to a great video on tuning your bandsaw properly. It may be the one Corey already posted, but if not this is well worth the time watching.

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...your-band-saw/

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Cheers,
Bob

Pictures from the shop

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m292/bnoles616/

seawolf21

I know what you are going through. I have a 10 inch 3 wheel Craftsman that has to be adjusted everytime I change blades and it takes me 30 minutes to get it right. Sometimes it just won't cut straight no matter what I do. The blades for this model are 56 7/8ths they only can be bought at Sears. Other brands are 56 1/8th and won't fit on this saw. I was in Half Price Books one day looking for some woodworking books and I came across "The Band Saw Handbook" by Mark Duginske. This book is 315 pages and has everything you want to know about bandsaws. This book has it all.


Gary