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**Glenmore** · 12-08-2007, 08:06 PM

Kristin keep spraying pentrating oil into let it set over night. Do what Doug suggested with the emery cloth. I had the same problem with some bearings on a saw mill they weren't removed for years. Try taking a dead blow hammer or even a small sledge with a block of wood and tap right at the shaft might break it loose enough that it will come loose for you.

**bobj3** · 12-08-2007, 08:08 PM

Hi

You bet "brazed ,,it would work" once you have hot and the nuts are in place drop in some water, then heat it one more time and do the same..

Cutting and drilling sprockets could be a hard one unless you anneal it 1st. but it sounds like you know how to do that..

You can also drill it when it's hot (in the press )

Here's one more trick you may want to try, do you have some sand from a sand blaster around, if so drop some down the set screw hole and turn the wheel, most marks,nicks are in that spot because the set screw put them in when it did a bit of spinng on the shaft...once you do it use some WD40 down the hole to flush out the sand b/4 you try and take it off.

You can also try ,,,put the set screw back in and let it remove the bur it put in, it's a harden tool in a way, just grind the end of the set screw flat, (remove the cup point), then spin it around when you are pulling on it...once it moves about a 1/4" or so back off the set screw..

good luck, it will take some work but it looks like you will get it done

===========

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kristin D

Bob,

Yes that's the puller the mechanic had but like I said about 3/4 to 1 inch thick, I have to look around for some steel now. I might even have some bicycle sprockets I could cut in half that would already have the round hole in the center, dang I know I tossed a bunch away about a month ago when I was cleaning up and brought them to the recycle yard but there may be one or two left. I still may try pushing a piece of crocus cloth down the 5/16" set screw hole and trying to polish off the darned burs, the pulley rotates freely but just will not budge edgewise.

The one piece of tool steel I have I really don't want to destroy, it's drilled and tapped for a bending jig for wire puzzles using shoulder bolts and took me a while to make several years back.

Do you think if I made your sketched rig, brazed three of the four bars together and bolted the fourth it would work, sure would be easier than rigging four nuts and bolts in that tight space and I could braze the backup nuts in place.

Thanks for the pictures & sketch, it's getting dark and cold here now so time to give it a rest for the night and wake up tomorrow hopefully with new insight.

Kristin

Still not loosing it

Kristin D · 12-08-2007, 08:20 PM

Glenmore,

The pulley spins freely, it just will not come off the shaft, I have run emery cloth around the 1/16" of the shaft that is sticking out and done the "click" with fingernail thing looking for a burr there, nothing. It seems the burr or burrs are centered where the set screw was, it has soaked four days w/penetrating oil, been warmed with a propane torch, tapped, cajoled, pleaded with, cursed at and it still spins free but will not move more than a 1/16" on the shaft axialy. I could have it off of there in less than 30 seconds but the pulley would be a puddle of melted zinc die cast, not good.

Tomorrow I will rig what BJ suggested, and give it a pull, I would rather have one groove in the bore than wring it off and make it loose.

Thanks guys, I'll be sure to follow up with the results or lack of same.

Kristin

Kristin D · 12-08-2007, 11:56 PM

I finally got the stubborn pulley off, I tried some abrasive down through the set screw hole pressing with a pencil eraser, ripped a strip of abrasive cloth and pressed the same way, rinsed well with WD-40, Brake cleaner. It moved a little more, so I tried putting some abrasive cloth folded in the pulley keyway and spun it around some more, tried a acetylene torch tip cleaning pin, finally found a needle file that would fit the keyway and locked the pulley, spun the band wheel with the file in the slot and in about 20 minutes it came off! There was a much deeper groove than I could see from the setscrew hole, that’s why it would move a bit and go clunk into a hard stop. Good news is it looks like I can salvage the pulley as it’s only slightly chewed in the center of the bore; both ends look good so it should still line up.

Next on to the lower band wheel, alas no keyway and I feel it has grooved the shaft too. I wonder if I should just polish up the pulley side and drive it through the bearings so I can get it pressed out? I hate to hammer sideways on bearings however.

Thanks for all the help and encouragement so far…

Kristin

**bobj3** · 12-09-2007, 09:40 AM

Good Job Kristin

Like you "I hate to hammer sideways on bearings" but you can do it with care and use a soft face hammer (brass works well) it has the mass without nailing the shaft.
I have a hammer thing I must have 50 or so but my home made brass hammer works the best most of the time. (it's about a 2lb.) with a short handle,with 2" dia. x 4" long head)

Polishing works the best it takes more time but it's quicker than replacing the bearing.

Good Luck with the rebuild and the next wheel

========

**Mike** · 12-09-2007, 09:48 AM

Kristin, what you need is a steering wheel puller and a couple of 1/4" x 1" x 6" strips of steel. Drill and tap holes to fit the pullers bolts in the center of the strips. Next you slide the strips behind the pulley, thread the bolts into the holes you made and tighten the center screw. This will provide more than enough pressure to overcome any damage caused by a loose set screw. If you cant find a cheap steering wheel puller locally, Harbor Freight has a kit for $22.

**bobj3** · 12-09-2007, 12:53 PM

Hi Mike

I don't think a steering wheel puller would do the job in this case

Because it's needs to be pulled strait out, but he did get it off with some brain storming..
You can never have the right puller and it some times takes a home made one to get the job done

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
MIKE
Senior Moderator

=================

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

Kristin, what you need is a steering wheel puller and a couple of 1/4" x 1" x 6" strips of steel. Drill and tap holes to fit the pullers bolts in the center of the strips. Next you slide the strips behind the pulley, thread the bolts into the holes you made and tighten the center screw. This will provide more than enough pressure to overcome any damage caused by a loose set screw. If you cant find a cheap steering wheel puller locally, Harbor Freight has a kit for $22.

Kristin D · 12-09-2007, 02:55 PM

Thanks all,

I am a certified ASE mechanic, just don't have my tools anymore. Standard pullers as Bob said will not fit behind the wheels so it's a make shift arrangement all the way. Please go to page number one and read the description of how close the pulley and wheel are to the casting. Too many folks have jumped in on page 2 and did not follow the whole thing.

**Mike** · 12-09-2007, 05:45 PM

I would not be one of those. You said on page 1 you had 3/8" clearance. By looking at the size of the container from the sour cream or chip dip I decided the pulley was close to 8" diameter. Sliding the 1/4" x 1" x 6" pieces behind that should of been easy. A steering wheel puller used with two bolts should of straddled the center hub and allowed the pieces to pull evenly on the spokes. It should of pulled the pulley straight out. All you were trying to overcome was a burr by your statement. What part did I get wrong? It is easy to misunderstand another persons thoughts since they do not always convert easily into words. I have done heavy industrial maintenance for many years and am used to making my own specialty tools for situations like this. I realise you had the pulley off, my intent was to be of assistance to others in a similar situation. Savy?

12-08-2007, 08:06 PM	#11
Glenmore Forum Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Mountain Top Pennsylvania Posts: 1,614 View Glenmore's Gallery	Report This Post! Kristin keep spraying pentrating oil into let it set over night. Do what Doug suggested with the emery cloth. I had the same problem with some bearings on a saw mill they weren't removed for years. Try taking a dead blow hammer or even a small sledge with a block of wood and tap right at the shaft might break it loose enough that it will come loose for you. __________________ Glenmore Days without wood working are days not worth getting up for.
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12-08-2007, 08:20 PM	#13
Kristin D Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 55 View Kristin D's Gallery	Report This Post! Glenmore, The pulley spins freely, it just will not come off the shaft, I have run emery cloth around the 1/16" of the shaft that is sticking out and done the "click" with fingernail thing looking for a burr there, nothing. It seems the burr or burrs are centered where the set screw was, it has soaked four days w/penetrating oil, been warmed with a propane torch, tapped, cajoled, pleaded with, cursed at and it still spins free but will not move more than a 1/16" on the shaft axialy. I could have it off of there in less than 30 seconds but the pulley would be a puddle of melted zinc die cast, not good. Tomorrow I will rig what BJ suggested, and give it a pull, I would rather have one groove in the bore than wring it off and make it loose. Thanks guys, I'll be sure to follow up with the results or lack of same. Kristin
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12-08-2007, 11:56 PM	#14
Kristin D Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 55 View Kristin D's Gallery	Report This Post! 19:45 Hours Pacific Standard Time I finally got the stubborn pulley off, I tried some abrasive down through the set screw hole pressing with a pencil eraser, ripped a strip of abrasive cloth and pressed the same way, rinsed well with WD-40, Brake cleaner. It moved a little more, so I tried putting some abrasive cloth folded in the pulley keyway and spun it around some more, tried a acetylene torch tip cleaning pin, finally found a needle file that would fit the keyway and locked the pulley, spun the band wheel with the file in the slot and in about 20 minutes it came off! There was a much deeper groove than I could see from the setscrew hole, that’s why it would move a bit and go clunk into a hard stop. Good news is it looks like I can salvage the pulley as it’s only slightly chewed in the center of the bore; both ends look good so it should still line up. Next on to the lower band wheel, alas no keyway and I feel it has grooved the shaft too. I wonder if I should just polish up the pulley side and drive it through the bearings so I can get it pressed out? I hate to hammer sideways on bearings however. Thanks for all the help and encouragement so far… Kristin
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12-09-2007, 09:40 AM	#15
bobj3 Forum Contributer Supreme Forum King Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Littleton,Colorado U.S.A. Posts: 8,273 View bobj3's Gallery	Report This Post! Good Job Kristin Like you "I hate to hammer sideways on bearings" but you can do it with care and use a soft face hammer (brass works well) it has the mass without nailing the shaft. I have a hammer thing I must have 50 or so but my home made brass hammer works the best most of the time. (it's about a 2lb.) with a short handle,with 2" dia. x 4" long head) Polishing works the best it takes more time but it's quicker than replacing the bearing. Good Luck with the rebuild and the next wheel ======== __________________ PodCast videos RWS on YouTube http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail Machine Cut ▼ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/ http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/ http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm Bob J.
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12-09-2007, 09:48 AM	#16
Mike Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Detroit, Michigan USA Posts: 3,372 View Mike's Gallery	Report This Post! Kristin, what you need is a steering wheel puller and a couple of 1/4" x 1" x 6" strips of steel. Drill and tap holes to fit the pullers bolts in the center of the strips. Next you slide the strips behind the pulley, thread the bolts into the holes you made and tighten the center screw. This will provide more than enough pressure to overcome any damage caused by a loose set screw. If you cant find a cheap steering wheel puller locally, Harbor Freight has a kit for $22. __________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you.
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12-09-2007, 02:55 PM	#18
Kristin D Registered User Sr. Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 55 View Kristin D's Gallery	Report This Post! Thanks all, I am a certified ASE mechanic, just don't have my tools anymore. Standard pullers as Bob said will not fit behind the wheels so it's a make shift arrangement all the way. Please go to page number one and read the description of how close the pulley and wheel are to the casting. Too many folks have jumped in on page 2 and did not follow the whole thing.
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12-09-2007, 05:45 PM	#19
Mike Senior Moderator Supreme Forum King Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Detroit, Michigan USA Posts: 3,372 View Mike's Gallery	Report This Post! I would not be one of those. You said on page 1 you had 3/8" clearance. By looking at the size of the container from the sour cream or chip dip I decided the pulley was close to 8" diameter. Sliding the 1/4" x 1" x 6" pieces behind that should of been easy. A steering wheel puller used with two bolts should of straddled the center hub and allowed the pieces to pull evenly on the spokes. It should of pulled the pulley straight out. All you were trying to overcome was a burr by your statement. What part did I get wrong? It is easy to misunderstand another persons thoughts since they do not always convert easily into words. I have done heavy industrial maintenance for many years and am used to making my own specialty tools for situations like this. I realise you had the pulley off, my intent was to be of assistance to others in a similar situation. Savy? __________________ Mike Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you.
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