Kristin D

Hi I have gotten parts of the Willhoit band saw to come apart with penetrating oil and gentle application of the propane torch but I am stuck as it were at the bottom wheel and pulley. After carefully looking down the setscrew hole in the pulley it does look like it had spun on the shaft, not badly it rotates freely and I can move it axially about 1/16-1/8 inch but then it locks up. I also don’t have a three or even a two jaw puller and I can’t see where I could even get a grip on this since the hub is right against the base casting. The pulley is a zinc casting and I would rather not have to find a replacement or damage the bearings.

So my idea is to plug the keyway in the pulley (no keyway in shaft) find something that fits over the hub of the pulley like a piece of PVC pipe or a copper fitting and clamp it in place with a hose clamp and some thin rubber from a glove or wrap of newspaper. Fill the pipe or fitting with grease and with a reduced diameter tube attached to it and force grease in until it crawls off the shaft. I used to do this with my thumb to get clutch pilot bushings out of flywheels. Wish I had a grease gun I could just put a Zerk fitting on it and pump it off.

I already tried to remove the lower band wheel and ran into the same problem, that has a aluminum hub shaped like a top hat with the brim to the inside, when I started to move it the hub started to separate and I did not want to mess that up so I tapped it back with a wood block. I don’t want to press the shaft since I can’t see how the bearings are retained in the frame and it’s all cast aluminum.

Suggestions?


Photo of pulley



More photo's here: http://s219.photobucket.com/albums/cc106/kd006/Bandsaw/

Thanks,

Kristin

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bobj3

Hi Kristin

Go down and RENT a gear puller, I have many of them and they are not cheap to buy.

The one you want to rent is a split type, that's to say it comes in 3 parts,or 2 parts, the back plates will slip behind the wheel, then you have a front plate with holes for the bolts..if you want to see a quick snapshot just ask.

Once you have it in place put just a bit of heat to it with a propane torch...but not on the center of the shaft..


DON't use the 3 jaw type you don't want to damage the pulley..plus they will not fit behind the wheel...cheaper than replacing the wheel...

The last time I rented one it was 7.50...per. day....


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Kristin D

Bob, is that what is refered to as a bearing puller, I am not sure I hve enough behind the pulley for a 1/4" thick even.

bobj3

Hi Kristin

Some times,, but the key to this type is that it's tapered on the parts,it starts out about 1/16" thick and goes up to about 1" thick...it's maded to slip right behind/between a gears, most bearing can't take the pull on the out side of the bearing case...

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Kristin D

Ok, I am off to the one and only hardware/tool rental for 50 miles and I'll take a look. I measured with a 3/8 allen wrench and it's snug because of the webbing in the casting behind the pulley, I was able to slip a piece of 1/4" x 2"W x 4"L steel behind but it would bear on the outer rim, like I said not much room behind.

I report back later...

Kristin

bobj3

Hi
Try a auto store some do rent them or to say let you use one for a hour or so..

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kp91

Kristen,

If it has spun on the shaft, it may have made a slight burr on the shaft. sometimes a little emery paper (or delicate file work) on the shaft can remove that ridge and help get the pulley off easier. Try pushing the pulley onto the shaft as far as it can go and see if you notice a ridge or burr.

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1 John 1:9

Kristin D

Bob & Doug,

Well 3+ hours later, none of the autoparts, hardware, flea market had a bearing puller. I did find one mechanic open and his Snap-On puller was about an inch thick like Bob said so it would never fit past the 3/8" clearance between the outer rim of the pully and the frame casting.

Doug, there is a burr but since the pulley will only shift 1/16" in or out and it's smack in the middle area where the set screw was there is really no way to get to it. I did try holding a 1/4" lathe bit down the setscrew hole and rotating the shaft but I don't think it accomplished anything. Too small in the half keyway to even get a needle file in there.

So now to see if I can rig some bit of steel strap behind like Bob described and rig something to press a screw on the shaft, I did buy a cheap 2 jaw puller with rivited flat jaws just to get a block and hardened screw to adapt. One of my other thoughts was I have some short pieces of 3/32 aircraft cable with a crimped loop on each end, and thought I may be able to loop them behind the hub, cross the ends over and using a couple of bolts get a pull with the cross bar of the cheap puller.

Wish I had a piece of that abrasive eraser stuff, kind of like a pencil eraser thing I could trim a piece into the set screw hole and polish the shaft that way.

Kristin

Not giving up yet, or getting violent!

bobj3

Hi Kristin

They can be hard to find sometimes,,,here's some snapshots of what it looks like,,,sometimes a picture is worth a 1000 words,,,

I have made my own from time to time,,if you have some 1/4" flat sock around and drill and tap some holes in the back part of the puller you may have it made,,,put backup nuts on the back side because I'm sure you will not have some HT stock about..
You will need to made 4 parts to the back side of the puller, because you will not have the thick stock to hold the cross bolts to pull the clamp together but the 4 parts bolted up behind will do the trick I'm sure..

The center part of the puller you can get just about anywhere), auto stores but it needs the full thread in the center type ..


Good Luck don't give up you can do it...it just takes a bit more work this way.


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Kristin D

Bob,

Yes that's the puller the mechanic had but like I said about 3/4 to 1 inch thick, I have to look around for some steel now. I might even have some bicycle sprockets I could cut in half that would already have the round hole in the center, dang I know I tossed a bunch away about a month ago when I was cleaning up and brought them to the recycle yard but there may be one or two left. I still may try pushing a piece of crocus cloth down the 5/16" set screw hole and trying to polish off the darned burs, the pulley rotates freely but just will not budge edgewise.

The one piece of tool steel I have I really don't want to destroy, it's drilled and tapped for a bending jig for wire puzzles using shoulder bolts and took me a while to make several years back.

Do you think if I made your sketched rig, brazed three of the four bars together and bolted the fourth it would work, sure would be easier than rigging four nuts and bolts in that tight space and I could braze the backup nuts in place.

Thanks for the pictures & sketch, it's getting dark and cold here now so time to give it a rest for the night and wake up tomorrow hopefully with new insight.

Kristin

Still not loosing it