Nickbee

I’m going to be making a small decorative box with Rail / Stile / Panel construction. The rails / stiles are going to be ½” x ½” walnut sticks and the panels will be 1/8 Ply (very smooth 5 ply birch) covered in Walnut Burl Veneer as seen here:







Now the walnut burl has the inevitable pin holes which I guess is common with burls. Some spots are worse than others:





My 1st thought was to use materials I have on hand. Some 2 part finishing epoxy and clamps (the panels will be aprox 3” x 7”).

But I’ve read that epoxy can play havoc on the finish as it seeps out of the pin holes. I’ve heard that hide glue / hammering is a good option and I’ve read that section of “Veneering, a foundation course”. Being a complete veneer newbie I’m looking for some direction here. Also I would like my finish to be natural and satin. I was thinking just a Danish oil finish or Danish oil followed my wipe on poly.

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bobj3

Hi Nickbee

You may want to check out the links below,, info,info tons of it

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http://www.woodworkingonline.com/category/podcast/

Veneering
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/cat...odcast/page/2/

Choosing and Using Glues
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=glue&paged=2


besure to click on the "Previous Entries" on the bottom of each web page
tons of info on this great web site..

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Nickbee

Bj, I've seen that podcast. Made me think,, I can do this!!!

I also emailed Joe at Veneer Supplies (where I got the veneer). He recommended this for the darker walnut:

http://www.veneersupplies.com/produc...oducts_id=1319

Seems like a no-brainer. I’ll try it on a sample panel before gluing up my project pieces…

Mike

Gluing veneer can be done with contact cement or yellow glue. The brown tinted glue is just a variation of yellow glue to hide better with dark wood.

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harrysin

http://www.routerforums.com/53059-post1.html

Nick, I'm no expert on veneering, in fact I've only ever done it once and whilst that was using Walnut burl, it was a very small project shown in this link. I used the Canadian made weldbond white glue which dries transparent and goes off quickly. The veneer off-cut was very porous in places with the glue oozing through which I wiped off then placed a board with a weight on top of it for about half an hour and there was no trace of glue showing.

HOW WRONG CAN MY MEMORY BE, I'VE JUST LOOKED AT THAT THREAD AND SEE THAT IT WAS TWO PART EPOXY THAT I USED, well at least I didn't delete the post, never have I claimed to be perfect. I'm quite sure that Weldbond would have done a perfect job, I use it for just about everything.

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Harry

bobj3

Hi Harry

I recall you doing two, that I know about,one was a round inlay in the top of a lid and one was a slot it the top of a box,,,(inlay sot) all the way around and that one was EPOXY ..

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__________________
PodCast videos
RWS on YouTube

http://www.routerforums.com/86898-post1.html
Besure and click on the Up Arrow key ▲ on the Youtube video, you can select other youtube videos on router tables
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?s=dovetail
Machine Cut ▼
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...cut-dovetails/

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/woo...podcast-store/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

Bob J.

harrysin

Bj, the inlays that I do, and I've done many, are not the same as veneering. With inlays you rout a rebate and glue a pre-made inlay into the rebate and for this I have ALWAYS used white glue, years ago standard PVA and more recently Weldbond. At the start of my box-making I used yellow PVR glue, which as you know replaces the water content with resins. Whilst a joint made with yellow glue will break the wood before the joint, the problem is that it penetrates the wood causing a stain that doesn't get hidden with stain or finishes. The veneered escutcheon that I made is the only project where I have used epoxy.

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challagan

Good luck there Nick, that is some neat veneer!

Corey

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