Don,
A few things I would consider when looking at any table saw would be: can it accept a set of dado's, does it use (standard) 3/4" x 3/8" deep miter slots, does it use trunion not direct drive, I would check the stability of the fence when locked by putting my finger against the fence and table then see if it can be deflected by pushing from side to side, how smoothly does the fence slide and is the scale adjustable and easy to read, is the miter decent, can it be made mobile, cast iron top won't mark wood like aluminum could, stamped sheet metal wings are ok if they are well supported, 110v is fine for home use, 10" blades, does it use machined blade washers or does it have stamped blade washers, will it accept zero clearance inserts made from 3/8" or 1/2" standard thickness material, my preference is left tilting blade, does it have a riving knife and if so how easily can it adapt for different thickness blades.
If you find a saw that has most these basics, most of the other nuances can be overcome with accessories (dust control, feather boards, outfeed table, zero degree inserts, etc.). Once you get the saw before you even use it tune it to the best of your ability...blade parallel with slots, fence parallel with slots from end to end, extension table wings on the same plane as the main table, tilt stops adjusted at 90* and 45*, riving knife or guard support in line with saw kerf. A stable well tuned saw (and kept well tuned) is your second defense against an accident. Your first defense is your knowledge. Read and try to learn everything you can about the safe operation of your saw and apply that safety to everything you do on your table saw. I hope you find what your looking for.