Router Forums banner

glue proofing a high density fiberboard surface

3K views 16 replies 12 participants last post by  DesertRatTom 
#1 ·
Just finished a new top for my shop bench. Layer of ply, layer of MDF, topped with Masonite top. Any suggestions on how best to glue proof the surface? Saw something about wax, but can't find it again.

This extension to the existing bench will fold down most of the time, but fold up when I need the space for assembly. Currently using wax paper to ward off glue. but it is hard to keep where I want it.

Getting a piano hinge tomorrow to mount the extended top to the bench. I made it 28 inches wide, but I think I'm going to cut it down to 20 inches wide, which will be lighter and won't eat all the space.

Thanks for the help.
 
#4 ·
If you use paste wax it has to be silicon free or it could rub off on your boards and cause finishing problems. Also keep in mind that if it rubs off on your board it may cause gluing problems.
 
#6 ·
You can, also, seal the hardboard with shellac and then wax the top. Let the shellac soak in (two or more coats) and then seal with whatever wax you prefer, that doesn't contain silicons.
 
#10 ·
I finished my masonite surface with a coat of polyurethane followed by paste wax and give it a refresher coat of wax every few weeks.
 

Attachments

#11 · (Edited)
As soon as I saw the title, even before opening the thread, I was going to say paste wax. Paste wax your cauls also...

Another tip- I always have a roll of household wax paper handy in my shop. When I do glue-ups or am gluing together cabinet doors, I lay them down on top wax paper. Learned long ago-- That saves me so much cleanup work!
 
#12 ·
I also use the wax paper method if I'm worried about getting glue on my bench. I also use it for gluing countertop laminate on. Contact cement won't stick to waxed paper.
 
#13 ·
Hi, I use the wax paper too. Attached are a couple of pictures of the project, which is a fold down/up 16 inch extension to my 20 inch wide work bench. In my tight workshop space, the fold down will leave room for walking around, but when up plenty of assembly space. I have not yet waxed it, but today put on a 60 inch piano hinge (first picture). To line the new top with the existing one as precisely as possible, I clamped the cutoff from the top (it was too big at first) to the top of the table, then clamped the extension up under it.

Once aligned, I connected the Piano hinge to the edge of the existing bench. Should give me a near seamless joint.

Last step will be putting in two hinged drop down legs with levelers on the bottom. Same setup as my outfeed table. Once all is installed this weekend, I'll finish it with shellac and then paste wax, as you suggested.

Thanks for all the information. I think this is a great project for anyone with a small shop. The top starts with a 3/4 ply base, half inch MDF layer and a replacable masonite top The edges is poplar. There is space underneath to put trusses, like a torsion box, but I think the hinge and edging should stiffen it pretty well.
 

Attachments

#15 · (Edited)
Thought a couple of you might like to see the finished product. The legs fold up, out of the way and the top just hangs straight down when not in use. Legs are hinged to the underside of the top, although I will be replacing the hinges with much heavier versions tomorrow. Leg levelers account for my uneven shed floor. Really lets me make good use of my small shop space. Should have cleaned up a little better, but you get the idea.
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Dan,
Part of the reason for all the changes in the workshop is that I want a good, reachable place for everything, so I can just reach back or up and get to anything I need at that workstation. I'm also creating a clear space about 16 inches high all round the floor that will be kept clear (as much as possible), so I can get the vacuum under to clear out the sawdust. I have decent dust collection, but the stuff has a mind of its own. With the new shelves to the right of the bench, I seldom have to walk very far to get what I need. Also moved the band saw out of its dark corner and find myself using it more.

One other big and wonderful change. I blacked out the windows to keep heat out (or in), so its dark in the shop. So I have put in a lot of LED lighting. Found a 110w equivalent LED the puts out 1600 lumens--which is BRIGHT! Really helps my aging vision.

Next project is to lower the router table so the top is a bit lower than the infeed side of the table saw. If I cut something more than about 18 inches wide, the table gets in the way, annoying and dangerous.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top