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dtoggs

Hi check twice,I too use the 2tpi on my band saw. It cuts green wood and limbs very well. I did experience a 'poop' in the pants near accident however. Because it is very agressive,I got it hung on the start of a resaw pc approximately 8'' tall(I have the riser). It flipped the pc and pushed the table down,no real problem. I now am more careful and secure a tall pc that I resaw and ease it into the blade. I think a 3tpi will be my next blade. I too use a 1hp motor,but rather have a 1 1/2hp. dtoggs

Check twice!

I thank you for your reply, I think one of the biggest differences in opinion is the width of the blade.

I personally am starting to think the opinion (which I went with) of a blade of 1" is too wide for the saw. I get some lag and and at times chatter .......maybe the cut is too course for the saw.

With the smaller blades, used for cutting scrowls in 2" thick wood does not pose a problem. It is the darn re-sawing.

The woods I use most are Oak, Mahogony, Birch, Maple,.....with Purple heart, Walnut, cherry, and Basswood an occasional flavour of the day. My personal favorite is Oak and Maple, so maybe I am trying to use the same blade on different wood denisity.

Thanks
John

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AxlMyk

I went to the toy store and asked them about a resawing blade. They sold me 2 Morse 3-4tpi X1/2" blades. I made sure the blade was tensioned good and went to town with a walnut block I had. It sawed right through it with no problem. I was amazed. I was able to saw 3/8" slices with no problem.

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Check twice!

AxlMyk

Quote: "I went to the toy store"

This is where I got the suggestion for the 1" blade 2 hook...... BUT this was the only choice they had at the time for re-sawing.
Hum! maybe a sale is more important than the use I required it for, or they mis-understood my needs????

The reason I bring this to the forum is "my mind was not satisfied with the toy store" answer. I read how smooth some of you can re-saw, I am not getting those resaults.

I am beginning to think a little different about my choice of blades.

Thanks
John

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challagan

John, call the guys at Suffolk.
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/default.asp
Give them the make of your saw and what you are sawing and they can hook you up with the proper blade.

Corey

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AxlMyk

My "Toy store" is Marsh Power Tools here in town. They are the only ones that sell quality tools. I would never go to HD for something like that.

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My Gallery @ http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/

Check twice!

I understand what you are saying AxlMyk, and I do have to get a better quality blade.

That being said, I just came back from the shop and did some re-sawing.

I changed my blade to a 1/2" 4 TPI. Another of my great buys to save the nickle, hence another cheap blade.

I cut some Cherry and Maple, I had picked up the beginning of January. This lumber was dry and good all sides (the way I purchased the ends) and this is what I found.

The cut was smooth with some areas that seemed to get some waves, (possible my over feed at times ??) the cut was very slow and the blade seemed like it could not clear the cut of saw dust fast enough. A decent job but slow!

I will buy a good blade once I find the right one. I think I need to be able to clear the cut faster?? (or no patience on my part,,,, Hum!)

Thanks for your help
John

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Cleaning my glasses will not make me look any better, but will make what I'm looking at better!

dtoggs

Good morning Check twice,I believe you should limit the width of the blade to 1/2'' on a fourteen inch saw-for tension sake. A 1/2'' 2 or 3 tpi blade should do well for you, and a 3/8'' 6tpi is a good all round blade. Resawing is slow,especially in maple. Oak and walnut are easier,main thing is not having ANY bind whatsoever,that kills the power. Besure the table is pependicular to the cut,have fence that is also perpendicular to the blade, and proceed slowly. All the better blades work,Highland hwd,Timber Wolf,Lenox etc. pw