Router Forums banner

The Perfect Router and Table?

4K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  Mike 
#1 ·
I've been doing woodworking on and off for 20 years as a hobbyist, and my plain old 20 yr laminate surface table is warped and time for a upgrade. As I get older it sure seems like a lift would be nice perk for the table. And then I heard about the Triton that evidently you can raise and change bits above the table. Sounds good, does it work well? Are there other routers that you can work above the table and not buy a lift? The sad part is I still have the same Milwaukee ( 2 hp) that I bought 20 years ago and works great. And then there is the table and the fence to consider? Miter slots or not? T-Tracks? I've never had either? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Tom
 
#2 ·
Hi Tom,
I have the Triton 2 1/4 in my table and it is a great machine. There are others, but I can't speak from experience on them. As for the miter slots or T-tracks, I do not have either on my table except for the T-track on the fence I made. I have not found an instance where I thought they would really be needed on my table even when making cope and stick. Some like 'em and some don't. I guess it really comes down to how many bells and whistles you want on your table.
 
#3 ·
Hay Tom, I have a Ridgid router it can be adjusted from above the table also. I have so far been satisfied with this router, but I am new and don't have anything to base it against. I know there are others that have the lift built in.
 
#4 ·
I Agree!

:yes4:Hello Tom, I agree with Jerry and George, Anytime that you put slot, and T'tracks, You have a great place to trap sawdust and shavings. Your always having to clean. A fence that clamps on and a 90 degree sled, with a clamp, is better, and more useful .
Thats My Opinion, And i usually fell that my opinion isn't bad. But remember, its the only one i have!:help::nono::no:
 
#5 ·
I have both T-Tracks and 1 miter track next to my insert. I don't find that they collect any sawdust and find them very handy.

To change the bid I just lift the insert / router and do my change, takes a minute.

I would not have a table without T-Tracks / miter. Although you may not need them now, you will in the future
 
#7 ·
I have both T-Tracks and 1 miter track next to my insert. I don't find that they collect any sawdust and find them very handy.

To change the bid I just lift the insert / router and do my change, takes a minute.

I would not have a table without T-Tracks / miter. Although you may not need them now, you will in the future
Kolias,
For my own personal edification, for what purpose(s) will they be needed in the future that can't be done without them? As I stated before, I can see using them on your fence, but not on the table itself.
 
#6 ·
Hi Tom,
I have the Triton 2 1/4 also. I love how it works. I made my own router table and hope to be able to post pics soon. I do not have any tracks but I did buy the Rockler close-out fence they are selling for $29. It comes with the attach hardware for the tracks. I don't use the hardware, and just clamp it in place when I need it.
The safety shields that come installed on the Triton while free-handing really get in the way when mounted on the table, so I took them off. I left the dust collection attachment in place, and ran my little shop vac hose to it. This works pretty well.
Good luck,
George
 
#8 ·
Hey Guys,

Thanks for all the feedback. It sounds like everybody is different and it comes down to personal choice and maybe what you are use to. I'd like to hear more about the 90 degree sled from Howard without a miter slot. I'm not sure how that works. Does it have a spacer so it runs on the fence at a level above the bit? Anybody else use a sled like this?

Tom
 
#12 ·
Router table advice.

I'd like to hear some advice on router tables. Here's my tentative plans for my upcoming router table project. I bought a new Freud FT2200 router for a very good price. My tentative plan is to buy a Router Raizer and perhaps build Norm's router table. Any feedback or pros and cons before I commit would be appreciated.

Rick
 
#13 ·
Hi Rick,

Is that the Freud vaiable speed 3 1/4 plunge router? If it is then I don't think you even nee a lift. It is built in. At this point I know that the Triton, Rigid, and Porter Cable all have models that can be raised from the top of the table, so there is no need for a separate expensive lift. There's probably others as well, but not sure? It sounds like they are all going to it.

Check out that link from George on the podcast and tables above.

Tom

tom
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the reply Tom. Yes the router is a variable speed 3 1/4 HP plunge. As far as can it be adjusted from above the table... I haven't taken it out of the box since the initial receipt of it. :fie: So not sure it it can be adjusted from above or not.
 
#19 ·
Tom, as you can see there are two schools of thought on using feather boards with or with out T track. I am going to reveal the awful truth: Both ways work.

Some people want everything attached to their table, lots of whistles and bells. That is fine. Bob and Rick from the Router Workshop teach that "Simple is better" and you do not need all those expensive items. I have tried both ways, and as I said above they both work. I find that for most work I do not need feather boards. When I do need them it is very easy to clamp them to a fence or table top. This also means you have limitless positioning, no restrictions based on where the T tracks are mounted. There is no wrong way, but I suggest you give it some thought before you spend money on these items. The good news is that there are many people here who use both methods and they are all happy to share information to assist you.
 
#21 ·
Tom, most of the 2-1/4 hp combo kits can be adjusted above the table. The question should be: Is this feature important? As long as the adjustments are quick and easy, isn't that what really matters? Most people are going to bend down to eye ball the adjustment anyways. In this position it is simple to reach a hand under the table top to make the adjustment. My favorite router is the Bosch 1617. It has 3 rough adjustments that are reached by pushing a lever and sliding the motor close to the proper height. Next you use the thimble adjustor to fine tune the setting. Flip the locking lever and you are ready to plug in the power and start routing. Now compare that to using a T handle allen wrench turning a fine thread to make your height adjustment. Even with the use of an allen bit in a speed handle I guarantee you can make the adjustment faster by hand with the Bosch. Set up time is time not spent making sawdust, so anything I can do to speed the set up makes sense to me. Some routers still require you to turn the motor in the base to adjust the height. These routers would benefit from using a lift. Check out the features on any router you are considering, remember that in the end you are the person using the router. Get what you are comfortable with.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top