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Air Compressor done?

5K views 41 replies 15 participants last post by  RainMan 2.0 
#1 · (Edited)
My little 8 gal BCP air compressor that I keep in the basement wouldn't go when plugged in. Nothing. Question is ...... what could it be and is it worth fixing. It is 15 years old or better. I'm thinking control valve. Is it worth fixing or just buying another small one. All I use it for is blowing dust off the CNC bed and benches, and a little finish nailing. A new control valve itself is $30+.

HJ
 
#2 ·
I'm more of a fixer type...I'd rather spend $30 than $100 on a small new one...IF...the rest is in good shape...no rust, motor good, connections, control valves, etc...

You could also use the exhaust port of a shop vac (if it has one) to do what you need (in a pinch)...
 
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#3 ·
Touble is, I don't know if it's the control valve. I'm just guessing. The rest of it is in good shape. Just been sitting in the basement or garage. Hardly ever even moved.

HJ
 
#4 ·
John, put it up on the bench so you don't have to bend over; step #1.
Take the switch box completely apart and give it a really good cleaning...check the contacts for crud, and loose connections. Disconnect the cord and check it for continuity.
Once you've eliminated everything electrical, then start on the control mechanisms. Been down this road with my old Campbell Hausfield.
I did eventually replace all the air pressure activated parts but that was more of a midlife rebuild; they didn't owe me anything. My original issues were strictly electrical contact related.
 
#8 ·
clean the contacts on the pressure switch...
check the start capacitor... if it has one...
test out the motor...

.
 

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#9 ·
Cheap compressors are oil-less. That means after about 500 hours, most give up the ghost. Personally, I'd just get another. Some things are repairable, some might be but aren't worth repiaring, and some things just need to be trashed. If the compressor is frozen, it's probably done. Perhaps you can revive it, but 15 years is a long run for an oil-less unit. Who knows the condition of the tank. Did you ALWAYS drain the air and any moisture in the tank. I doubt that, I am fussy and I can't claim yes to that question.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Did you ALWAYS drain the air and any moisture in the tank. I doubt that, I am fussy and I can't claim yes to that question.
@DesertRatTom

Tom,

This is what I ended up doing. Ball valve with screen brass unit on end of hose.
 

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#12 · (Edited)
Took the pressure control valve/switch apart. Found a burned contact on an angle. Straightened it out and got a buzz when I plugged it in. So I'm pretty sure that's the problem. Now ....... I got springs and parts all over and don't have a clue how to put them back if I had to. Need a new valve anyway, right? So I called the 800 # on the sticker for RMM. Recorded message. Lady says "BCP air compressor parts are no longer available". So, I'll look on the net and see see if I come up with one by chance. Or, I was wondering if I can get the fittings to work, can I use a different valve and just zip tie it or something to the unit? Don't they all just have air in and air out with the same 6 wires?

Or, forget it and buy a new one for $150-200.

Like the other post says - one of the signs of something old is "discontinued".

HJ
 
#13 ·
Agri-Supply in NC has one that looks like it'll work. $18 + $6 shipping. It's worth the gamble to at least try. I think these compressors all use the same 8 or ten pressure switches from outside suppliers. I know my 30 gal Kobalt has one that can be had from an outside source.

We'll see.

HJ
 
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#14 · (Edited)
#16 ·
John it's easy to tell if it the pressure switch although I think you have it pegged correctly. The pressure switches job is to start the compressor at a given (low) set point and stop it at a given (high) set point. If you bypass the switch and connect directly to the motor you can tell if it is the switch or the motor. Just remember that you have to take the place of the pressure switch and shut it off before it over pressures.
 
#17 ·
I'd look for a square D...
my 28 YO Rolair is still going strong... FWTIW...
 
#22 ·
Thanks Dan.

I didn't even have the wing nut just a brass plug. Really got sick of laying on the concrete floor to drain it. I've made this so that I can leave it open and air. I can also get the valve handle with my foot.
 
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#25 ·
Had a problem with mine once and it ended up being a glass fuse inside of the motor casing. Why they put it there still boggles my mind. You have to take the motor cover off to find it. Why would they do that for such an easy fix? My guess is so people would take it to them to fix and get charged a fee for service work, or buy a new tool.
 
#26 · (Edited)
I had a problem that turned out to be a reset button, simple fix had I known where to look. But you can get a 3 gallon compressor for under a 100 dollars any day of the week off Amazon and for about $50 dollars at Harbor Freight after their 20% off coupons. Put on a service contract and you are still at around $60 dollars. I'm a proponent for buying quality but quality is hard to find in a 3 gallon compressor (and that would be plenty for bowing off dust, even an overkill) Besides with their service contract you can take it back at the end of three years for any reason and exchange it for a new one. Then buy a new service contract and start all over again.
 
#29 ·
Rick, I don't have any $$ to take or leave. Just a retired guy living on a social security stipend, having to sell what items I can make for a pittance. I like the 8 gal in the basement to move around when I need to. The garage has the 30 gal Kobalt.

HJ
 
#33 · (Edited)
"Outlet has juice. It had some rusty water in the tank --- No, I didn't always drain it...."
-- Honest John

Seriously consider saving up for a replacement. It is 15 years old and rust in the tank water is an indicator sign that the tank is rusting from the inside out and will develop pin hole air leaks or a catastrophic tank failure. Whether an oil bath or oil-less, or an aluminum or cast iron pump, develop the habit of draining the air tank after each day's use. Preventative maintenance is inexpensive insurance and delays tool replacement/failure.

As an aside, 'bout 25 + years ago, my old compressor tank leaked from pin hole as I did not always drain it. "Gifted" it to a friend who found the leak, welded it up. Held air for awhile, then another leak developed, welded it, then another. He finally replaced the tank at almost the cost of new compressor.
 
#35 ·
That's a good deal. It will run brad nailers and staplers, might have to wait once in a while if running a framing nailer but that's a different ballgame. For about twice that much I bought a "Hot Rod" brand twin stacked tank compressor from Canadian Tire a while back. Excellent performance and will run a 1/2" impact if you are willing to wait a little at times. The downside is that at close to 100 pounds is almost not portable.
 
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