If the Sears has an iron top instead of aluminum I would go with it. I bought a Craftsman like the Ryobi a few years ago. The fence was a problem. It was difficult to line up straight. I had to check every time I moved it to see if it was parallel to the blade which was a PITA. It wouldn't stay put during a cut until I glued some sandpaper to the back clamp. It was under powered but if I took my time I could get past that problem. You can't expect a saw like that to perform like a Unisaw or Powermatic 66.
My first saw was a direct drive 1 hp Sears. The fence was okay and the power was okay but it had an aluminum top and I bent it slightly which means you never get a perfectly straight cut with it. Despite that it still got the job done and may still be going with only one relay replaced in 35 years. I sold it a couple of years ago for $10. When I bought my Unisaw it served as a backup until a friend sold me an old Rockwell for $100. The Rockwell is a pretty good saw. The fence was decent but I had an aftermarket I replaced it with that was even better. The only issue I had with the Rockwell was a short distance past the blade to the back of the table which I improved with a short out feed added on. If you can find one of the old Rockwell Beaver saws in good shape I would go with it and they sold a lot of them back in the day.
Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.