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Inverted router - overarm pin guide

7K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  cibolotx 
#1 ·
It seems that a large portion of router table pattern routing is done with a ball bearing trim / pattern bit riding against the pattern, rather than using an overarm pin set up to guide the cut. Wouldn't the overarm pin be better, eliminating bearing problems (seizing, etc.), and also safer with the top mounted pattern sheilding the operator from chips flying from the cutter and further shielding inappropriately placed fingers from the business end of the cutter? Only a couple of manufacturers offer overarm "pin router" arms, although it is easy enough to fashion a shop built overarm. Plain cutters cost less than bearing guided cutters.....

Many operations can be done more than one way and yes, I'm overthinking the matter, but comments on the pros / cons of overarm pins vs. bearing guided bits will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your input.
 
#2 ·
The bearings are pretty reliable and cheap to replace if needed, usually about $4 or $5. This lube will free them up and I can't remember the last bearing I had to replace since I started using it. Bearing Lubricant - Lee Valley Tools

Pin routers are more common in an industrial setting and they work fine. It's just that it is an added expense. If it is a large workpiece then you don't need to worry about getting too close to the bit. If it is a small workpiece my fingers would be too close to the bit no matter which type of system your using, guard or not. I would want to use a holding jig of some kind and the overarm might get in the way of that.

You still have to have a router table with a router mounted in it so I would say for most of us it is just an unnecessary added attachment.
 
#6 ·
This lube will free them up and I can't remember the last bearing I had to replace since I started using it.
Huh, never knew there was a special lube just for that. I just use a drop or two of Marvel Mystery Oil, dispensed from an old eye drop bottle, every time before I use my router. Since I started using that, some years back, had no problems at all with the bearings. I understand that Dextron transmission fluid will work too.
 
#4 ·
You're welcome Carroll. The bit I have the most trouble with is a laminate trim bit and I don't usually spray it until after the bearing starts sticking and it still frees it up even then.
 
#5 ·
Pin Routing For accuracy

Tinker:
I am right in the middle of making a form of the pin router attachment. The need stems from a set of feet for a book stand that already has a profile routed on the top of the feet. Because of this, using a bearing router bit is not going to work. The pin router attachment is not hard to build for special purpose. You need only design it to do what is needed at the time. In my case I need to cut a cove in the edges of the feet and the cove will sit just below the bead already cut.
The pin attachment will ride against the pattern I will make that takes the difference between the bead and the cove to allow the bit to access the edge to cut it. I have thought this through and found it to be the only way to get the cove cut in a uniform and clean way. I have a drawing of the pin router attachment to show. The drawing had to be squished to get it in here but this is a working print, if you need one just ask.
The jig is made from scrap stock and a piece of angle that is bolted to the riser block. The pin at the end is just a bolt with the threads removed for smooth operation. It is held to the router table withe clamps on both sides of the riser block.

Hope this helps;

Ed :D
 

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#7 ·
An over arm router with the pin in the table works best for me.
 
#8 ·
I had considered a mount like that too Gene. There are some advantages to having the back of the piece on the table while you rout the face. How did you mount yours? I think I saw a picture from BJ with a bracket on a radial arm saw. I have thought that a radial drill press could be converted to one.
 
#9 ·
Charles,
Abashedly, I have to admit it is a unit purchased from Shopsmith. It can be used either way.
I really like having the work on top, though. Usually the work is attached to a pattern made of 3/8" material.
 
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