How to cut plastic? - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 09:27 AM
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HDPE doesn't accept glue too well. Not much sticks to it for any length of time. The only thing my HDPE distributor says works is Spray 77. Forget who makes it. Maybe someone here may remember the manufacturer.
3M...
Use a neoprene-based cement...

switch to UHMW..

.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by subtleaccents View Post
HDPE doesn't accept glue too well. Not much sticks to it for any length of time. The only thing my HDPE distributor says works is Spray 77. Forget who makes it. Maybe someone here may remember the manufacturer.
It's a 3M product. A contact adhesive. Big Orange box store sells it. There is a spray 90 version, which has a stronger hold. Also sold at the box stores. There are some expensive 2 part products designed to use with HDPE, but the specs on holding power aren't all that great. Mechanical fasteners are probably the way to go. You can tap HDPE and it holds fasteners pretty well. I'd go with coarse threads.

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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 01:05 PM
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What about the Painters Tape and CA glue method on all sorts of materials?




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It's a 3M product. A contact adhesive. Big Orange box store sells it. There is a spray 90 version, which has a stronger hold. Also sold at the box stores. There are some expensive 2 part products designed to use with HDPE, but the specs on holding power aren't all that great. Mechanical fasteners are probably the way to go. You can tap HDPE and it holds fasteners pretty well. I'd go with coarse threads.

Gary

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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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For now, I have given up on the plastic cutting board idea. My first design was carved using mdf, and painted with high temperature paint. Today I am carving a second one for the other shelf. I like my design. I guess time will tell if moisture gets to the mdf. I painted all sides and edges to seal it as best as I can.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 05:09 PM
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... I like my design. I guess time will tell if moisture gets to the mdf. I painted all sides and edges to seal it as best as I can.

Hmm... I just picked up some Penetrating Epoxy to help seal a door on our shed
that has been seeing some water damage. Well, not damaged but you can see its
about to start to create problems. Some videos suggested to use Pene Epoxy if it
isnt too far gone, aka rotted.


I wonder how MDF would work w/ Pene epoxy? Have to dilute Parts A/B w/ Acetone
im reading. It's already soupy like unlike the build 50 epoxy. Couple of coats
and good sanding I guess.



Anyone use it? and for L/MDF?

I got some of this stuff
https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t.do?pid=97636

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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 05:31 PM
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I use regular laminating epoxy to seal MDF.
You can route profiles into the MDF, seal with epoxy, and then, after it's cured, run them again, removing a very small amount of material, and you get cuts as smooth as glass, with no fuzziness. This also works with CNC Carved MDF.

Rough cut about .01" oversize, cover in epoxy, and recut to actual size when cured.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 06:24 PM
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How do you get the x/y axis lined up putting it back on the bed??
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
I use regular laminating epoxy to seal MDF.
You can route profiles into the MDF, seal with epoxy, and then, after it's cured, run them again, removing a very small amount of material, and you get cuts as smooth as glass, with no fuzziness. This also works with CNC Carved MDF.

Rough cut about .01" oversize, cover in epoxy, and recut to actual size when cured.
I never would have thought of that . Great idea

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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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And now for an update. My plans changes somewhat. After some measuring, I finalized the project to cut three boards out of the piece of plastic. I used an 1/8th inch upcut bit and ran it at 70 ipm. I made .10 inch passes, and it was chips-a-hoy! No melting, and I got smooth cut. I am really pleased with the results.

The board wasn't exactly flat so the first toolpath was to drill some holes in the waste area of the handles. That kept them in place and helped flatten the board. The next two tool paths were the handle cutout and the board cutout. All went well. I don't have a picture of the final three boards because I have already put them in storage for use as needed. I think one of the small ones may be going to my niece when she gets here later. The small ones are perfect for making sammiches, etc. The larger one is out in the BBQ Cart.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. I appreciate it.

Note: The original board has some character marks from years of fishing and BBQing.
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