Interesting idea for mounting spoil board - Router Forums
 10Likes
  • 2 Post By RainMan 2.0
  • 1 Post By honesttjohn
  • 2 Post By ger21
  • 1 Post By honesttjohn
  • 1 Post By honesttjohn
  • 3 Post By BalloonEngineer
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
RainMan 2.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Rick
Posts: 17,176
 
Default Interesting idea for mounting the spoil board

Just watched this video ,and Iíve never seen this done yet . By chance heís working on an Avid Pro , which is what I purchased. But Iím sure it can be implemented with any cnc that uses extruded aluminum for the bottom supports if a person wants .
Iím curious as to what Honest John and Ger21 think of this , as maybe itís more trouble than itís worth .


Starts at 11:00


Gaffboat and beltramidave like this.

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 07-12-2020 at 02:57 AM.
RainMan 2.0 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 02:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 4,239
 
Default

Wondering what he's going to do for clamping??

I've got 7 - 3/4" 80/20 T-track running lengthways at various spacings. I'm going to put 1" pieces of either wood or MDF in between them, skim the entire work area, and do a grid. Then I can put material down anywhere on the bed and have access to a clamping area. If there'll be a profile cut I just have to put a piece of 1/8" whatever's on sale material under the model and pitch it when it's all chopped up. Should make the initial bed last quite a while. Right now I'm at the having the T-track installed (which was the most expensive). But I'm still using it regularly. Just watching how I place the cut material on the bed and putting something under the piece if it's going to have a profile cut, letting the clamping pressure hold it.

The "to do" list never gets shorter!!
RainMan 2.0 likes this.

HJ

Detroit Burbs

RoutervilleUSA on Etsy

I took the tests and retirement is the best job I'm suited for.

Now I know why old guys wear suspenders.
honesttjohn is online now  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 02:29 PM
Registered User
 
ger21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Country: United States
First Name: Gerry
Posts: 472
 
Default

Actually, it seems like an easier method to attach it. But IMO, you'll want more support between the extrusions/2x4's, as it will sag between them.
I'd screw a layer (or two) of plywood first, and attach the spoilboard to that.
difalkner and RainMan 2.0 like this.

Ger

www.cncwoodworker.com
ger21 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
RainMan 2.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Rick
Posts: 17,176
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
Actually, it seems like an easier method to attach it. But IMO, you'll want more support between the extrusions/2x4's, as it will sag between them.
I'd screw a layer (or two) of plywood first, and attach the spoilboard to that.
In hindsight, I probably should have ordered mine with an extra cross member

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
RainMan 2.0 is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 06:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 4,239
 
Default

You can order a couple from Avid (or 80/20 since that's where they come from) - along with all the fasteners.
RainMan 2.0 likes this.

HJ

Detroit Burbs

RoutervilleUSA on Etsy

I took the tests and retirement is the best job I'm suited for.

Now I know why old guys wear suspenders.
honesttjohn is online now  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2020, 06:09 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 4,239
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by honesttjohn View Post
Wondering what he's going to do for clamping??

I've got 7 - 3/4" 80/20 T-track running lengthways at various spacings. I'm going to put 1" pieces of either wood or MDF in between them, skim the entire work area, and do a grid. Then I can put material down anywhere on the bed and have access to a clamping area. If there'll be a profile cut I just have to put a piece of 1/8" whatever's on sale material under the model and pitch it when it's all chopped up. Should make the initial bed last quite a while. Right now I'm at the having the T-track installed (which was the most expensive). But I'm still using it regularly. Just watching how I place the cut material on the bed and putting something under the piece if it's going to have a profile cut, letting the clamping pressure hold it.

The "to do" list never gets shorter!!
I can also rip down some stock 2 x 6's and 8's to fit too. Got plenty of Z height with this Avid machine compared to the Probotix.
RainMan 2.0 likes this.

HJ

Detroit Burbs

RoutervilleUSA on Etsy

I took the tests and retirement is the best job I'm suited for.

Now I know why old guys wear suspenders.
honesttjohn is online now  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2020, 12:24 AM
Registered User
 
BalloonEngineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Richard
Posts: 332
 
Default

Pretty much what I did 4 years ago. I slid carriage bolts into the slots in the 80mm x 80mm extrusions that support the spoilboard and used them to attach the 2x4s slightly proud. Much cheaper than t-nuts and no blindly trying to hit them with bolts. Milled the tops of 2x4s parallel to the X and Y axes.
Routed slots for t-track in spoilboard, 2 inch screws go through t-track into the 2x4s and hold spoilboard in place, no other screws. Looks clean.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	3DC44CCC-17B4-4567-BC7E-46856174968C.jpeg
Views:	9
Size:	170.8 KB
ID:	390063  

Click image for larger version

Name:	5F23332A-5A4F-4A1F-A4DA-8A0661ECA567.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	1.13 MB
ID:	390065  


Tubular latex pressure vessel configuration engineer
BalloonEngineer is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2020, 01:04 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
RainMan 2.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Country: Canada
First Name: Rick
Posts: 17,176
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BalloonEngineer View Post
Pretty much what I did 4 years ago. I slid carriage bolts into the slots in the 80mm x 80mm extrusions that support the spoilboard and used them to attach the 2x4s slightly proud. Much cheaper than t-nuts and no blindly trying to hit them with bolts. Milled the tops of 2x4s parallel to the X and Y axes.
Routed slots for t-track in spoilboard, 2 inch screws go through t-track into the 2x4s and hold spoilboard in place, no other screws. Looks clean.
Should have known that if anyone would have thought of this idea already , it would be you .
Nice job

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
RainMan 2.0 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome