Sears Router Manual Mod # 315.17431 - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 11:39 PM
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Dianne take the bolt out and take it with you to most any hardware store. Ask them for a wing nut to fit that bolt. Just keep in mind that there is a possibility that it might be metric. The 315 in the serial number indicates that it was made by Ryobi which is why I say that.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 10:58 AM
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any way to download the manual as a pdf?
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 11:19 AM
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News item: Sears Canada has crossed the final hurdle, it's past the Bankruptcy stage and its bones are being made into soup.
https://www.thestar.com/business/201...perations.html
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 10:45 AM
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I'm new to woodworking and routers. I want to use my craftsman router 315.17431 in a router lift (stumpy numb's multi-function router lift). This seems to require separating the motor from the base. I can easily separate the two, but the motor is wired to the trigger in the base. Is there any way to separate the two and still have the motor run when power is sent to it?
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 08:57 PM
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Hi John and welcome. Take the switch apart and splice the motor leads to wires going to an auxiliary switch. You can use a regular light switch but Grizzly sells some better ones that aren't that pricey.

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 09:56 AM
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Lightbulb thanks

Thanks Chuck, that a great idea. From the manual it looks like there are 3 wires associates with the trigger switch, white, black and red. I'll take the handle apart and confirm this. I'll pick up a simple switch, wire it up
and see if the motor comes on when I plug it in. If that works, problem solved and you saved me from having to buy a new router to go with the lift. its a simple single speed router. I may find that I need a variable speed
one later as I try more ambitious projects. But if the lift works properly, it should be a fairly easy swap out of the motor with a new one.
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-30-2017, 04:21 PM
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John where you normally need speed control is when you start getting up to 1.5" diameter and larger. Recommended speeds for bit size charts are easily found with a web search are are also posted on some of the bit manufacturers sites. Since you are limited to 1/4" bits it shouldn't be an issue but if you get more serious about routing you'll eventually want to upgrade to more horsepower and 1/2" capability and either above table adjustment or a lift.

I'm not entirely sure why you have a red and black wire but only one should be used. It may be that one of those wires may have been for a work light in which case you don't want to hook up to that one. Maybe some with more experience with that router knows the answer. If no one responds here then I would start a new thread posing that question and get a definitive answer before proceeding.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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