DW625eK base plate
Does anyone have a drawing of the hole setout for a Dewalt DW625ek type 4 base plate? I have been searching for this for a long time on the web and have even contacted DeWalt. Amazingly they say they don't have one! The only drawing I can find (on this site and also from DeWalt themselves) shows linear dimensions between the mounting holes but does not provide a pitch circle diameter. Without this the dimensions are of no use. Also the drawing gives no reference to the cutter center lines. Ideally I need a drawing that gives the set out for the holes and the cutter centre relevant to x and y reference lines. If anyone can help I would be very grateful. I would have thought this is something that router manufactures would include in the user manual!:no:
Welcome to the forum John . Sorry I can't help ya , but many here will be happy to help
welcome to the forums John....
stay around.. this place will grow on you...
why can't you transfer punch hole locations and then use a plunge straight bit to bore the center hole after you drill out the plate and mount it...
transfer from the base to the plate...
transfer from one plate to another...
use dowel center transfers to mark w/...
Set of Dowel Centers - Package of 8 - Rockler Woodworking Tools
screw cone pointed set screws into the screw holes w/ the point to the plate..
what exactly are you trying to do or build??
Transfer screws are the easiest way to get the exact hole locations. Remove your sub base plate, put it and the screws in a zip lock bag then label it. Install the transfer screws an even number of turns into the router base. In photo 3 both the large Porter Cable 3 hole mounting pattern and the smaller Bosch 4 hole mounting pattern have transfer screws in them.
If you are installing a mounting plate or base that accepts Porter Cable guide bushings you can use a centering kit like the ones shown from Rousseau or Infinity. The Rousseau kit includes the centering ring, pin, transfer screws and longer mounting screws. A centering cone will work for these and other sized openings; I recommend the Bosch centering cone as it has a much larger diameter than the DeWalt centering cone which only works in the PC sized openings.
Center your router using either the centering kit or cone and lightly tap the base with a hammer. This will mark your hole locations in your material.
Since you are asking about the DeWalt 625 I thought you might be interested in seeing the Woodrat plunge bar. With this bar installed you can plunge your router with one hand. Woodrat also offers plunge bars to fit other routers.
" If anyone can help I would be very grateful. I would have thought this is........"
I make base plates for the 625. (But I do not provide a plan for the hole centers, etc.)
As much as possible I would try and just transfer the placements from one to the other. The one thing that gets you into trouble more often than any other process is measuring. If you insist on measuring then I would disagree with your statement that you need the circle pitch diameter of the holes. The holes must display some sort of symmetry even if they aren't evenly spaced like the ones on my Hitachi M12V2. One thing is a fact, if there are 4 holes then a line drawn across opposing screw holes will cross the dead center. If there are 3 holes then a lines drawn from the midpoint of the line between two holes to the 3rd point will cross dead center with the others.
The distance from the points to dead center is the distance from any point to the center opening plus 1/2 the distance across the opening. All of that should more than enough data to locate the holes properly.
While reading this thread I've been thinking about why would someone need to go through such precision to attach the plate. Why not hold one plate to the other and mark the holes with pencil? I've come up with two answers, please respond if you know of others I'm missing. 1) keeping it centered on the router allows one to use the edge of the router plate as a guide because the bit is equidistant from any place on the edge of the plate. 2) OCD
I haven't used the edge of the plate as a guide in years since I built a router table with fence. Occasionally I'll use bearings and guide bushings... Oh I just realized that if the perimeter of the plate is off, so is the bushing.
Are there other reasons?
Mike you were using the centering jig in the table plate, is there a reason there or just because you had the tool already?
Everend, it is critical that your router is centered on a mounting pate or with its sub base plate for use with guide bushings. If you are using a large diameter bit having the plate centered can make the difference between chewing an off center hole and just fitting through. Even for those who are not currently using guide bushings it makes sense to set up so you can in the future. If you are doing inlay work you need your sub base plate centered so your cuts are accurate. Centering kits and cones are under $10 and I feel this is money well spent.
If your router uses slotted screws to attach the sub base pate I highly recommend that you change them to Phillips, Allen or Robertson(square drive) screws; this will save you from problems down the road.
DW625eK base plate
I am feeling that you all think this is a very simple problem and you are all right – it is called a fully dimensioned drawing!
To start with Everend first, you are correct in all you say including the no 2 option!
By way of an explanation, I am not a woodworker at least not in the way that you all are. I come from a precision engineering background where dimensions were always critical and I had the reputation of being the tightest of the tight when it came to tolerances (hence the nickname). Great for my previous life but not when working in wood!
I am designing a new router table and base plates to improve my abilities and options with a router. The table I am designing is a combined horizontal and inverted vertical table and so far I am still doing the cad drawings for it. My previous or current table is a simple table with only a fence and no mitre or T slots and the fence isn’t even split although this is a simple mod to improve but I have never needed it because I have always worked between the fence and the bit. My existing table and offset plates were made using the exact method described by Stick486. I then dimensioned the holes and made a template with 0.3mm holes at the hole centres for future use. Years later and recently I found a drawing on the web for the base plate giving linear dimensions for adjacent pairs of holes. For the five hole pattern there are five different dimensions and for the three hole pattern there are two dimensions. Whilst there is an assumed symmetry between the holes, drawing a line between opposing holes does not describe the arbour centre or even the same centre. Also, for the five hole pattern, if the holes were equidistant you could assume they described a circle but they are not and they do not show an obvious relationship to the arbour crs., and even so it would be an assumption. Without at least a dimension between two pairs of opposing holes or a PCD there is an infinite quantity of locations on which the holes could exist and still maintain the dimensions between the holes given on the drawing. Also there needs to be a stated relationship to the arbour centre. Therefore the drawing is as much as tits on a fish! Also given any pattern of mounting holes, be it 3, 4, 5, or even 6 there is no requirement for them to be coincident to the arbour crs. Drawing a line between any of them is simply assuming that the manufacture has centred them on the arbour.
Hopefully you all now understand my dilemma, yes I may be OCD about my PCD’s but it is for good reason. Drawing a line between opposing pairs of holes in a four hole set only describes the centre IF the holes are equidistant between each hole and also diagonally. And then it only describes the centre point of the hole pattern and not necessarily anything else.
Errmm….I don’t spose anyone has a drawing………do they?
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