Securing wood to cinder block wall - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by hawkeye10 View Post
Rick Rick Rick this is why your shop isn't insulated. You would get a work out if you would insulate your shop. What are we going to do with you???
I think Rick has his priorities in order. First order of business is to find a woman who will put up with him before all hope is lost. He doesn't want to spend his twilight years in the cold frozen north all alone. To that end, he needs to be in top physical condition to offset the inevitable ravages of age. Once he has secured the affections of a female, maybe she will help him insulate.

ďWe should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom that is in it and stop there lest we be like the cat that sits down on a hot stove lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove lid again and that is well but also she will never sit down on a cold one anymore.Ē - Mark Twain
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post #12 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 04:13 AM
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I also agree with not using the expanding bolt. My experience with them is that they loosen easily. I've seen pretty good performance lately from just using Tapcon screws in cinder block. You could also use them in conjunction with a concrete adhesive caulk or epoxy for a little insurance. Keep in mind Rick that about 95% of the weight you'll have is straight shear force (going straight downward) and only maybe 5% is angular force wanting to pull away from the wall. You can improve the ratio by hanging the heaviest objects at the bottom of the panel and keeping everything as close to the wall as possible.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #13 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 10:49 AM
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Is the block wall insulated?
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post #14 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 10:52 AM
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Rick,

First, let me tell you that my dear friend Hugh Johnson invented "Space Wall". Space Wall is the original product that what you're using is a copy of. Space Wall is made of MDF or HDF and needs a moisture barrier between it and an exterior wall made of masonry or concrete. Just to keep this a Router Subject, this is manufactured using a series of routers that cuts all T grooves in a full sheet in one pass. Hugh's business uses Onsrund Diamond Cutter Bits and they use a lot of them!
My employees and I have tons of needs to securely attach "things" to a wide variety of wall types. It used to be frustrating, until my brother (a soon-to-retire commercial electrician) taught me about "TOGGLER HIGH PERFORMANCE ANCHORS". The benefits of using these is AMAZING! Once you have used these and see the obvious advantages, you will feel silly using anything else - I promise. I get them at Lowe's and they're probably sold in other stores, as well. They are not very expensive and I'm pretty sure these could be installed by anyone - quite easily. Go to Toggler & Wej-It Fastening Systems - the original wedge anchor for further info.

I hope this helps!

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post #15 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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I think Rick has his priorities in order. First order of business is to find a woman who will put up with him before all hope is lost. He doesn't want to spend his twilight years in the cold frozen north all alone. To that end, he needs to be in top physical condition to offset the inevitable ravages of age. Once he has secured the affections of a female, maybe she will help him insulate.
Well I had a good belly laugh there . Unfortunately I don’t think there’s to many woman that could cope with me lol .
Tried more than a few times , and never ended well

And unfortunately my sweetie is spoken for . But Erin was born with a boyfriend . So there was no chance there
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I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 01-14-2018 at 12:04 PM.
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post #16 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Guys I’m thinking of going back to plan B . I am going to put 4 vertical 2x6 along the wall , paint them white so they don’t really stand out .
I am not going to secure them to the wall , but let them sit on there own weight .
I can secure them to a wood header at the top .
I will dado out the sides in order for the horizontal pieces to secure better. Then use my pocket hole jig to attach the horizontal pieces .
If I leave a large enough border , I can paint molding and attach it around the perimeter of the StoreWall

I will do a Sketchup later to illustrate it better

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #17 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 12:35 PM
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Rick if you have a heavy load around the middle of the uprights then2 x on the flat can bow outward. I would use either the tapcons or what Otis suggested for a couple or 3 attachments between ends. I've used something like what Otis linked to for drywall and it is the only thing I'll use when I need to hang something that will have a load on it. I haven't seen then larger and longer for cinder block yet but I would use them if I could find them. They're made so that when you tighten the screw the tip flattens out to a t shape similar to a toggle bolt but with a smaller hole and easier to install.
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post #18 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Rick if you have a heavy load around the middle of the uprights then2 x on the flat can bow outward. I would use either the tapcons or what Otis suggested for a couple or 3 attachments between ends. I've used something like what Otis linked to for drywall and it is the only thing I'll use when I need to hang something that will have a load on it. I haven't seen then larger and longer for cinder block yet but I would use them if I could find them. They're made so that when you tighten the screw the tip flattens out to a t shape similar to a toggle bolt but with a smaller hole and easier to install.
Good point Charles , and in that case I may as well just go for the floating look , as it will best to secure it anyways .
I’m thinking of not going into a hollow spot on the block ,so the Togglers won’t work,so I’m debating to use the double expanding metal ones that Dan mentioned

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 01-14-2018 at 03:49 PM.
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post #19 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 05:03 PM
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Well I had a good belly laugh there . Unfortunately I donít think thereís to many woman that could cope with me lol .
Tried more than a few times , and never ended well

And unfortunately my sweetie is spoken for . But Erin was born with a boyfriend . So there was no chance there
Well, you certainly know how to pick 'em! Maybe you should fish in some other water . . .
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ďWe should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom that is in it and stop there lest we be like the cat that sits down on a hot stove lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove lid again and that is well but also she will never sit down on a cold one anymore.Ē - Mark Twain
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post #20 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 05:09 PM
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Good point Charles , and in that case I may as well just go for the floating look , as it will best to secure it anyways .
Iím thinking of not going into a hollow spot on the block ,so the Togglers wonít work,so Iím debating to use the double expanding metal ones that Dan mentioned
After doing a lot of searching on the internet, seems like Tapcon and Construction adhesive is the preferred way to go. But it is recommended that if the load is over 100# that 2X4 legs under the bottom 2X4 rail should be used.
It might be wise to use a combination of methods ,like the one Otis recommends as well as an abundance of fasteners./
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