Securing wood to cinder block wall - Page 6 - Router Forums
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post #51 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 11:11 AM
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Space the 1 bys so that you don't screw into a hollow and turn the tapcons in with a wrench, at least the last few turns, so that you don't strip them out. Snug is good and using a concrete caulk or epoxy will prevent them from loosening off. Remember that most of the force is downward shear force as I said earlier. As long as there is nothing suspended very far away from the wall there won't be much force trying to pull away from the wall. And keep all the heaviest items at the bottom of the panel.
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post #52 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
Just read what I think is a great tip . If the Tapcons strip in the hole , put a piece of 14 gauge copper wire in the hole and put the screw back in along side it .
Makes sense to me
that trick holds the screw in the hole but contributes nothing to holding power/strength...
stripped screws need a sleeve..

.



I know why liquid nails is so popular...
it's roughly a third the cost of PL...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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post #53 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
that trick holds the screw in the hole but contributes nothing to holding power/strength...
stripped screws need a sleeve..

.



I know why liquid nails is so popular...
it's roughly a third the cost of PL...
Well darn it Stick, I thought the wire was a valid idea . And I did something simular to what your saying , as when they stripped ,which was most of the time , I drilled tho hole to accommodate a lead insert . When the Tapcon went in , it seemed secure from what I’ve experienced.
I’m tempted to inquire about expoxy when I’m at Home Depot , as I’ve never done it that way .

I don’t always insulate , but when I do .

Ok , I never insulate
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post #54 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 04:06 PM
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if the tapcon strips a lot either the hole is too large or there isn't enough of material depth or you are over torquing them...
there are tapcon bits rated by dia for mortar, concrete and block..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #55 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 04:39 PM
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ya know Rick...
you lack the experience of using tapcons correctly in their different applications and what it takes to address their idiosyncrasies.....
why don't you use some other time proven method... they have been thoroughly covered here...

mistake....
#1... not RTFM/RTFPDF put out by tapcon...
#2.. using a hammer drill to drill the block, not drilling a clean hole and blowing out the other side of the block..
#3... not using the torque limiters...
#4... wrong size bit...
#5... installing tapcons in wet or excessively damp block...
and on and on..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #56 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Stick , I did watch the video they provide , and yes , I believe my biggest mistake was not cleaning the hole .
I have hammer drill now,but can’t remember if I used one way back in the day .
I bought #14 screws and lead inserts today rated for that size screw , as I was a little nervous about the .
Probably would have worked fine though . Today is just a proof of concept for me

I don’t always insulate , but when I do .

Ok , I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 01-17-2018 at 06:47 PM.
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post #57 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 07:03 PM
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The block is porous so using an adhesive caulk or an epoxy will fill in the empty spaces as well as toughen up the cement matrix plus work to resist the fastener loosening off. I do the same thing with wood at times. I.E. add a little glue in the hole before I drive the screw in.
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post #58 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 11:14 AM
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I used to install signs and awnings with 3/8 inch lags on mostly concrete, block or brick. We used nylon shields much like the regular wall plugs only bigger. I walked around in awnings doing wiring and stuff, so I trust them It doesn't matter if you hit the block's void or not. I saw some very similar in a Brafasco catalog. Dunno if I'd trust some cheap ones that I see online... you want a decent material.
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post #59 of 63 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 08:24 AM
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How to reinstall the wood floor in the kitchen?
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post #60 of 63 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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How to reinstall the wood floor in the kitchen?
Nope. Installing 1x4 strips of wood to a cinderblock wall in order to have something to secure to
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I don’t always insulate , but when I do .

Ok , I never insulate
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