Wood shop interior finishing ideas - Page 4 - Router Forums
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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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You know, even if you only put in 2 hours per day, you could still get it done before winter. You have, what, 6 weeks before it starts turning cold. By then you could have have the insulation in.
Ya but then I couldnít BS with you guys every day

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 09:16 PM
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Ya but then I couldnít BS with you guys every day
Ahh, there it is. Holy cow, a CNC in the basement and you want to BS with a bunch of old farts? Get a grip Rick. Get the insulation and a staple gun. Do what you can, when you can. Bet once you get started, you'll move it right along.

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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 12:36 AM
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5/8" Hardie Board on the walls and ceiling. Metallic epoxy from these guys on the floor.

https://www.epoxyplus.com/

I will argue the epoxy floor finish is even more important than the walls and ceiling. It makes the shop SO much easier to clean up.
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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 02:46 PM
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I will argue the epoxy floor finish is even more important than the walls and ceiling. It makes the shop SO much easier to clean up.
One shop has a ply floor, the other (garage) is concrete. Same stuff for both?

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post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 03:21 PM
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Ahh, there it is. Holy cow, a CNC in the basement and you want to BS with a bunch of old farts? Get a grip Rick. Get the insulation and a staple gun. Do what you can, when you can. Bet once you get started, you'll move it right along.
He can't, Tom. The garage is so full of stuff that he's overwhelmed. There is NO plan. I actually empathize.
Pretty sure I predicted this stalemate a few years ago; the garage has to be emptied out, completely. Trying to move the stuff around to get any work done in there will never happen.
Get a crane to place a shipping container onto the driveway, and hire a couple of guys to help with moving the stuff, insulating, and whatever else.This business of blowing insulation is just a stalling tactic.
Sorry if this sounds unkind, but just calling a stapler a stapler.
This misery could be done in a week. Talking about R40 in a workshop (in Castlegar) is not helping; you're not heating the shop to live in it. Go with R32 Fibreglass and giter done! Roxul is great stuff but a lot harder to install well.
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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 03:56 PM
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A bunch of good ideas. If you do drywall in the ceiling be sure it is 5/8", 1/2 will sag over time on 24". I also prefer conduit surface mounted for it's ease of changes. Over time you will change tool layout. If when you put in the conduit on the ceiling you mount a few extra boxes with a loop of 10 or 12 gage wire, life will be easier in the future. I marked the face plates with the breaker #. Painting walls & ceiling semi gloss white greatly improves the lighting. Don't cheap out on the lighting put in plenty of 4' LEDs. The ones around the edges need to be about 2' out from the walls or cabinets to prevent shadows. If you have cabinets over benches put in under cabinet lighting. The older you get the more you will appreciate good lighting. I know, I'm older than dirt. I put down 2 coats of epoxy on my concrete floor and really like it. I had it tinted a very light tan color (matches the dust!) Makes clean up much easier. If you have any chip outs in the concrete they make epoxy filler for that.
Make sure the floor is absolutely clean before you paint. I rented a 20" floor scrubber and used Trisodium phosphate. Vacuum, rise, vacuum, rinse....
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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 06:18 PM
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"Make sure the floor is absolutely clean before you paint. I rented a 20" floor scrubber and used Trisodium phosphate. Vacuum, rise, vacuum, rinse...."
-Larry
See my earlier comment re 'emptying the garage completely.' None of the renos are going to happen until Rick accepts that his loaded-up garage is the problem.
Denial ain't just a river.
Not being cruel, Rick, I'm just giving you tough luv, Buddy!
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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 06:49 PM
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One shop has a ply floor, the other (garage) is concrete. Same stuff for both?
I think the epoxy would only be appropriate for the concrete shop. It is pretty easy to put down, the only advice I will give is to make sure the floor is dry dry dry before you put on the primer coat. They recommend letting it dry for 5 full days after washing it with water. I figured that since I live in the desert that 3 days would be adequate. I have had a couple places where I dropped a clamp in it and it has chipped. I am sure that is due to my own stupidity.

I like the stuff so much, I doing the floor in the Art Shack that I am building for my wife with it too.
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Last edited by Inor; 09-03-2019 at 06:51 PM.
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post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 09:01 PM
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Hiring someone to help unload the garage is a good idea. Much easier to insulate, wire, drywall when it's empty. And I agree, go with the fiberglass or similar insulation with paper backs. One weekend and it's in. Drywall is easy on walls, so's plywood of some sort. OSB is cheap and heavy as sin. Rent a drywall riser to do the ceiling. Save your back. LED hurts YOUR eyes, so get someting that works for you. Enough of the long standing joke. It's worn out and once you have it done, get going on the CNC. You have no idea how good you'll feel when you're up and running.
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