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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Window Construction

I have six windows, 40" x 22" along a porch/hallway leading from my living room to the laundry room. The area also serves as the main entrance to the house.
These are all 6 lite, about 9 x 12" lites and only two open. The two that open are hinge mounted and swing in, blocking about a third of the passage way.
My thought is to build single hung windows to replace all or some of them. Ones not replaced would be replaced with twin fixed frame windows.
I'm thinking I can build the framework OK but the rail/stile for glass windows has me a bit puzzled. Been looking at the glass door/window bits and it appears that you route the rails and stiles and then cut off and retain part of the molded edge to be installed after the frame is assembled and the glass is set.
Is this correct?? Seems like that would foul up where the rail and stile join.
I can't believe that the frame needs to be assembled with the glass, would make glass replacement virtually impossible.

Could also use some ideas on what to use for latches to keep the bottom half of the single hung part of the window partially open. The older ones used spring loaded pins but they would only hold the window at predetermined spots. I don't particularly care for the weight/cable approach because of horizontal space considerations. I was thinking along the lines of a overcenter or cam type latch arrangement that would lock the window against the frame to hold it.

I think to combat sticking windows inherent with wooden hung windows I could route along the edge of the window and install a strip of UHMW plastic or Teflon.

Not a project I will be doing in the near future but any and all input is appreciated.

Thanks

John Schaben

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 11:04 AM
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John,
Ther is a cheats way of making doors and windows with many lights, with windows, use ex. 2"x!" timber, mortise and tenon the frame work, also the glazing bars,(which are not moulded), half joint the bars over one another, glue and cramp up, when set, rout a moulding around the bars and a rebate to the inside, all very simple, if a bit unorthodox.



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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 01:10 PM
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Hi John

Windows are easy to make with the right router bit set and a DVD from sommerfeld tools, you will be surprise how easy you can make them and how well they will come out..plus in the DVD Marc will show you all the tricks and jigs ... and great way to hold the glass in place that you can take out if you need to replace the glass down the road

3-Pc Glass Panel Set-Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood
Glass Panel Doors Made Easy-Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood


==========
Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
I have six windows, 40" x 22" along a porch/hallway leading from my living room to the laundry room. The area also serves as the main entrance to the house.
These are all 6 lite, about 9 x 12" lites and only two open. The two that open are hinge mounted and swing in, blocking about a third of the passage way.
My thought is to build single hung windows to replace all or some of them. Ones not replaced would be replaced with twin fixed frame windows.
I'm thinking I can build the framework OK but the rail/stile for glass windows has me a bit puzzled. Been looking at the glass door/window bits and it appears that you route the rails and stiles and then cut off and retain part of the molded edge to be installed after the frame is assembled and the glass is set.
Is this correct?? Seems like that would foul up where the rail and stile join.
I can't believe that the frame needs to be assembled with the glass, would make glass replacement virtually impossible.

Could also use some ideas on what to use for latches to keep the bottom half of the single hung part of the window partially open. The older ones used spring loaded pins but they would only hold the window at predetermined spots. I don't particularly care for the weight/cable approach because of horizontal space considerations. I was thinking along the lines of a overcenter or cam type latch arrangement that would lock the window against the frame to hold it.

I think to combat sticking windows inherent with wooden hung windows I could route along the edge of the window and install a strip of UHMW plastic or Teflon.

Not a project I will be doing in the near future but any and all input is appreciated.

Thanks


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Last edited by bobj3; 07-29-2009 at 01:29 PM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Bob, I think that is what I was looking for. I'm ordering the DVD. Gonna hold off on the bit for awhile though. The windows I am planning on first will be going with 3/4 stock, but there are additional windows in the house to be rebuilt and they measure out 1-1/4.
Derek also has an interesting approach which may lend itself to the thicker windows. To make it simpler I am not interested in the muntons/dividers. Just a PIA to paint anyway.
Thanks for the input..... Jeeez, seems like the more I learn, the more dangerous I become.... To myself of course.

John Schaben

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-29-2009, 11:02 PM
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Hi John

1 1/4" thick is not a big deal with the router bit set below,with or without the Mullions plus it's at the right price...tip **** print the web page out,it's great show and tell..

3pc 1/2" SH Window Sash/Glass Door R&S Router Bit Set - eBay (item 140335883341 end time Aug-02-09 16:14:22 PDT)


==========
Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Thanks Bob, I think that is what I was looking for. I'm ordering the DVD. Gonna hold off on the bit for awhile though. The windows I am planning on first will be going with 3/4 stock, but there are additional windows in the house to be rebuilt and they measure out 1-1/4.
Derek also has an interesting approach which may lend itself to the thicker windows. To make it simpler I am not interested in the muntons/dividers. Just a PIA to paint anyway.
Thanks for the input..... Jeeez, seems like the more I learn, the more dangerous I become.... To myself of course.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 07-29-2009 at 11:06 PM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-30-2009, 07:12 AM
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John, you will most likely want to make your windows double pane to eliminate the need for storm windows. It requires an extra step but the energy savings add up. The fake mullions are a great way to preserve the look while losing all the extra caulk work.

Mike
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-03-2009, 07:39 AM
 
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Default Re: Window Construction

Windows for additions or other new structures. These windows come in set sizes only and are widely available off the rack at home improvement stores. They come in vinyl or wood.A window is a transparent opening in a wall (or other solid and opaque surface) that allows the passage of light and, if not closed or sealed, air and sound. Windows are usually glazed or covered in some other transparent or translucent material. Windows are held in place by frames, which prevent them from collapsing in.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-05-2009, 04:13 PM
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Hello Steve, and welcome to the RouterForums. Glad to have you join us.




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