220v wiring for dust control - Router Forums
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post #1 of 112 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Default 220v wiring for dust control

Just picked up a used Delta 50-850 dust control unit. It is wired for 220v and based on what I've read I don't want to run it at 110v. So the question is how to I bring a 200 line to the dust control unit. I've added 110v circuits, but never 220v lines. The motor has a three wire plug on it.
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post #2 of 112 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 04:14 PM
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Greetings and welcome to the router forum. Bob if you are not at least some what familiar with the innerworkings of an electrical panel, I think you might find a good eledtrican to run the circut for you. I kGreetings and welcome to the router forum. Bob if you are not at least somewhat familiar with the inner workings of an electrical panel, I think you might find a good electrician to run the circuit for you. I know I can do it but I would be very reluctant to try and explain it in a forum. I hope you can find one soon and get your unit up and running before too long,now I can do it but I would be very reluctant to try and explain it in a forum. I hope you can find one soon and get your unit up and running before to long,

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post #3 of 112 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 06:28 PM
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hi Bob

if you feel comfortable wiring 110 im sure you can wire the 220. some here try to make it rocket science, it isnt. i wired my shop a/c to run on 220. i would advise you to do research on it.im sure you can handle it. but if you think you cant dont attempt it!

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post #4 of 112 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 06:45 PM
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Hi Bob

I have 220 ,100 amp service in the shop but run the dust control system on 110 volt,, it only runs a very short time the norm...
Some tools it's must have item to get them to run in the shop,,so to say ,save the 220 when you really need it,,
If you put your money into a remote control box you can turn it on only when you need it and not into 220 line to run the system..

The only thing I use the 220 volt is for the tools that need it like table saw.welders,5 hp compressor, etc..


But that's just my 2 cents ..


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Originally Posted by Bob Blooms View Post
Just picked up a used Delta 50-850 dust control unit. It is wired for 220v and based on what I've read I don't want to run it at 110v. So the question is how to I bring a 200 line to the dust control unit. I've added 110v circuits, but never 220v lines. The motor has a three wire plug on it.



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post #5 of 112 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 07:14 PM
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Hi Bob, Welcome to the forums,
Levon is right, 220 isn't exactly rocket science but the other poster was also right in that if you are not comfortable working inside a breaker box. Leave it to an electrician.
220 simply put, is two 110volt lines that are out of phase with each other.
Running the wiring is not different than running a 110 line except it is larger, for a 30 amp device, which I suspect your DC is, you would likely need to run 12-3 w/ground. At the device, wire according to the label instructions, should be one on or near the motor. At the breaker box you need to locate two ADJACENT open circuits, attach the red and black wires to the output sides of the double breaker and attach the white wire to the neutral buss and the ground to the ground bus. In some areas both neutral and ground are attached to the same bus. Then install the breaker.
I tried not to get to detailed so if you understand this you are probably good to go, if you didn't you may want to consider an electrician or a friend to do the final connections after you have run the wiring.
Good Luck,

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post #6 of 112 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 07:54 PM
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"attach the red and black wires to the output sides of the double breaker and attach the white wire to the neutral buss and the ground to the ground bus. In some areas both neutral and ground are attached to the same bus. Then install the breaker"

its just that simple, i was thinking of how i wired my a/c and thats exactly how i wired it.
black to hot, red to hot, white to neutral, ground to ground. i wanted to make sure before i told you. anyone that cant explain it to you should not be wiring 220.

but as i said before, if you feel you cant , dont attempt it!

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post #7 of 112 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 08:06 PM
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First, you need a proper size breaker for the tool, also make sure to get the correct size of receptacle for the plug. These are rated in amps. Pending on the length of run you'll need, this will determine the correct size of wire as well.

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post #8 of 112 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 08:20 PM
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Let's take a second swing at this because folks have said things that are true "except" and it is the exceptions that can get you into trouble. Is the panel you will be running your service from the main panel of sub panel? If main panel it is OK to run the neutral and ground to the same buss. However if it is a sub panel it is not OK to run them to the same buss, but the ground must go to the ground buss and neutral to the neutral buss.

The wire size for a 30 amp would be 10/3 plus ground. This is from Table 310-16 of the NEC found on page 70A-71 of the NFPA-70 for one and two family dwellings but taken from the NEC. If the unit is 20 amps or less it is OK to use the 12/3 with ground.

If you are going to run the wire and set the receptacle yourself a few things to remember, the wire going into the receptacle box must be secured with in 12" of the box. At the panel it must be secured with in 2' of the panel but must also be secured where it enters the panel with and approved clamping device (ask the guy at the box store) when securing the ground into the ground buss no more than 2 wires are permitted under a buss screw, however only one neutral wire is permitted per neutral bus that is code.

When you have run everything to the panel disconnect the main breaker. In newer houses it is sometimes located near the meter on older houses it is generally the large breaker at the top of the panel and will have some large number like 100 150 amps and so on. At his point it is save to install the new breaker and connect the wire to the proper buss or breaker. After securing all connections turn off the new breaker before turning on the main. Once the main is on reset the new breaker and if nothing happens that is good. Use an appropriate meter to check that the neutral and one hot wire have not been crossed. Check that the ground is in fact grounded properly in the device and in the main panel. Now plug in your new DC and make sawdust and tell us how it all went.

I have made this as not rocket science as I can, and for Lavon and John and myself it is very straight forward but if you have never messed inside the panel, set breaker and the like just be careful man, It may not be rocket science but it will kill you if you don't do it right so please be careful.

And if you already know all this then have at it.

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post #9 of 112 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 08:27 PM
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sorry, i stand corrected, if you dont secure the wire within 12" of the box and 2" of the panel your dc will not work. just teasing, it will work, but jerry was talking about code. i think jerry was an inspector.

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Last edited by levon; 07-28-2009 at 08:47 PM.
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post #10 of 112 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 08:30 PM
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Hi Bob:

The Delta 50-850 (DeWALT ServiceNET - Official Online Store for DeWALT, Porter Cable, Delta, and Black and Decker Parts) is configurable for either 110V or 220V, as shown in the user manual at the link I provided.

One thing to note: they show the neutral being switched in the 110V circuit. Check your local electrical safety code -- some jurisdictions (such as Canada) do not allow switched neutrals. This is a safety issue.

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Last edited by Cassandra; 07-28-2009 at 08:36 PM.
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