Repairing leaking hot water tank - Router Forums
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
Retired Moderator
 
TRN_Diesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 1,537
 
Default Repairing leaking hot water tank

When I was doing my get ready for winter checklist I noticed water leaking around the hot water tank. After closer examination I discovered the water coming from two sources. Firstly, the temperature & pressure relief valve and secondly, the drain for the tank itself.

A short trip to Home Depot (HD) HD and I had with me the replacement parts needed for the repair job. One new Relief valve and a new drain. When I took the old leaky drain out it had a 2" double male nipple attached to the drain itself. I noted the 3/4" thread and thought why not use a simple 3/4" water tap coloured RED for hot water. The other part was easy to just replace the relief valve.

Steps taken to complete the job were as follows:

1) Shut off supply to water tank.

2) Open hot water tap in house.

3) Lift the handle up on the relief valve to bleed off pressure in tank prior to removing any fittings.

4) open drain on bottom of tank to drain water below the level of the relief valve.

5) Apply t\Teflon tape to both the new water tap 3/4" threads and the Relief valve.

6) Using a crescent wrench remove the old relief valve and thread in new relief valve.

7) Using a pipe wrench remove the 2" nipple and old drain and thread in new red water tap. I used a pair of thick rubber wash gloves so my hands did not get burned.

8) Test for any leaks and make sure the new water tap valve stops the flow of water.

9) Open the supply of water entering the water tank.

10) When you do this water will commence coming out of the hot water tap you had left opened. Air will bleed off and wait till a steady stream of water is coming out before shutting down the tap to bleed any air trapped in the line.

Here are a few pictures for you to look at.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_4623.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	245.3 KB
ID:	28643  

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_4625.jpg
Views:	62
Size:	214.1 KB
ID:	28644  

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_4624.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	307.0 KB
ID:	28645  

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_4628.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	311.8 KB
ID:	28646  

TRN_Diesel is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009, 11:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Country: United States
First Name: martin
Posts: 111
 
Default

it's good you replaced the T&P valve, after a while of leaking, they get clogged with calcium deposits, and won't open, which is extremely dangerous, as the tank can explode if the pressure builds up from a thermostat failure, the water can turn to steam, and explode with such force that it can shoot the heater right up through the floorboards and rafters and reach a height of 500 feet. always lift the handle once a year and check that it works.
radios is offline  
post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-04-2009, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
Retired Moderator
 
TRN_Diesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 1,537
 
Default

Yes very true and good advice. I also find the dip tubes erode as well and should be replaced evry 5 yrs to maximize the capacity of the tank itself.
Dschram likes this.
TRN_Diesel is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-05-2009, 01:46 AM
Retired Moderator
 
BigJimAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 3,503
     
Default

Growing up here in Alaska, I remember my Dad used to have a garden-hose faucet on the hot water heater drain. He also had a brass garden hose Y.. and would periodically install it drawing cold and hot water together to a hose, for washing the car.

I make it a habit of draining a bit off of my water heater periodically to drain out sediment. I canned him and he confirmed that he did it to flush out the tank sediment while having warm water for car washing or other uses. I think I need to put a valve-swap on my list!

Check out that new high-tech cordless router.. wireless and no recharging required!!
BigJimAK is offline  
post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-05-2009, 02:20 AM
Forum Contributor
 
xplorx4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Country: United States
First Name: Jerry
Posts: 10,671
 
Default

Hey Dan good post.

Wisdom: Where experience and knowledge combine and become one.

"We are all one decision away from Stupid!!"

Lamentations 3:22-23

"How often we sacrifice the permanent plans of God on the altar of immediate solutions"

I have a very good memory, just short is all.
xplorx4 is offline  
post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-05-2009, 10:37 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Country: United States
First Name: del
Posts: 782
 
Default leeking water heater

the teflon take isn't the best to use You should have use pipe dope Teflon tape isn't a seeler It is a lube not a seeler Keep checking for leek's Ask a Qualified Plumber on this I used to work with this stuff

del schisler
port st. lucie, florida
del schisler is offline  
post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-05-2009, 11:01 AM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Country: United States
First Name: Bj
Posts: 23,786
       
Default

Hi del

I will 2nd that

If you look at the old fitting, they used pipe dope, it's the thing you can't get free and you need to use new fitting when you replace the hot water tank

Pipe dope holds for every...without leaks ,,

=========

Quote:
Originally Posted by del schisler View Post
the teflon take isn't the best to use You should have use pipe dope Teflon tape isn't a seeler It is a lube not a seeler Keep checking for leek's Ask a Qualified Plumber on this I used to work with this stuff



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097


bobj3 is offline  
post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-05-2009, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
Retired Moderator
 
TRN_Diesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 1,537
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by del schisler View Post
the teflon take isn't the best to use You should have use pipe dope Teflon tape isn't a seeler It is a lube not a seeler Keep checking for leek's Ask a Qualified Plumber on this I used to work with this stuff
I guess it is a matter of opinions on whether to use Teflon or pipe dope. I never stated anywhere in my post that teflon is a sealer. Teflon and pipe dope are both classified as lubricants.

When I work with gas I like to use Yellow teflon rated for gas along with pipe dope but thats just me. Everyone in the trade has a different way of skinning the "Cat". In the end you just want the joint to be sealed.

What actually seals the joint is the first three threads which are tapered to cut into each other to seal the joint. The remaining threads are a straight run sort of speaking. Generally with threaded joints a tight fitting thread will tend to leak compared to a loose fitting thread.

What caused the leak in the first place was not the threads but the calcium build up over the years which in turn would not let the valve in either one re-seats itself and thus created an opening for water to leak out of it.

I have worked with this stuff for the last 25 years and have not had an issue with it and either has the "qualified plumber" I consult with who happens to be one of my close friends and has been in the trade as a professional ticketed plumber for 30 yrs.
TRN_Diesel is offline  
post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-05-2009, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
Retired Moderator
 
TRN_Diesel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 1,537
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi del

I will 2nd that

If you look at the old fitting, they used pipe dope, it's the thing you can't get free and you need to use new fitting when you replace the hot water tank

Pipe dope holds for every...without leaks ,,

=========
Not sure I follow you Bobj3
Quote:
If you look at the old fitting, they used pipe dope, it's the thing you can't get free and you need to use new fitting when you replace the hot water tank
I did get the drain apart and showed pictures of it taken apart.

As for using new fittings I did buy new fittings for both the Temperature Relief valve as shown in the photo with the blue coloured box and the new boiler valve with the 3/4" NPT thread.

You never seem Bobj3 to agree with anything I post but hey your entitled to your opinion but I guess the true litmus test will be if you agree if the sky is Blue on a clear day.
TRN_Diesel is offline  
post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-05-2009, 04:34 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Country: United States
First Name: Bj
Posts: 23,786
       
Default

Hi Dan

I'm sorry I don't agree with you all the time, I have been around the block a time or two and you have done some strange things in the shop update..

I don't mean to make you upset in anyway but I always call them like I see them , sorry

I will try and play nice from now on

=========

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRN_Diesel View Post
Not sure I follow you Bobj3

I did get the drain apart and showed pictures of it taken apart.

As for using new fittings I did buy new fittings for both the Temperature Relief valve as shown in the photo with the blue coloured box and the new boiler valve with the 3/4" NPT thread.

You never seem Bobj3 to agree with anything I post but hey your entitled to your opinion but I guess the true litmus test will be if you agree if the sky is Blue on a clear day.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097


bobj3 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Water Damaged oak cabinet doors joeboxer JoeBoxer's Gallery 20 09-26-2011 11:28 PM
New Bathroom Renovation TRN_Diesel Show N' Tell 4 03-11-2009 12:41 AM
Recommended Finish for Fish Tank Cabinet/Stand markbb The Finishing Touch 6 12-15-2008 07:41 AM
water borne finishes jerrymayfield The Finishing Touch 1 01-07-2006 08:14 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome