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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Default Concrete Floor Question

After the recent flooding we had around our area and having experienced a little of it myself in the shop, I am considering raising sea level on my shop floor about 3 inches. My building is concrete block all the way around except for my wooden entrance door and is the only place water entered the shop. My floor is old poured concrete (rather rough) and painted with gloss latex porch paint. What I am thinking I would like to do is simply pour and smooth about 3 inches of fresh cement over what is there and cut 3 inches off my door to re-fit. This means the floods would have to be 3 inches higher than the last to get in again.

Will this work doing it this way? What am I missing and would it require any additional measures?
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 02:19 PM
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Hi,Bob. I think that should be OK to do what you suggest, as long as the old floor is not sinking and very uneven. If by "rather rough' you mean not a smooth surface. I would put some expansion material around the new floor and walls though. Maybe even drill some 1/2" holes in old floor and drop in short pieces of re-bar to anchor new floor to old so it doesn't slide or shift and move your walls. Is there any way to raise the door frame at all to keep the same door height, if you can I would do that. If not you will just have to live with a short door way.
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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 02:44 PM
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Hey Bob

It maybe time to build a new cabin in the back yard and use the old one for storage

You may want to build the new one on pontoons LOL just in case..

You don't need a concrete floor,,just 4 walls and a roof and one or two sliding glass doors and you have it done,,I'm sure Jerry will give you a hand and maybe with some luck some of the nice hardwood for the floor I know you have the room in the backyard..

Or you can cheat a little bit and have them drop off one of the premade building, I have done that once or twice the one car size, I'm trying to recall what I paid for the last one I think it was 1200.oo,they back in drop it off in about 1 hour and you have a new shop more or less, that will float LOL more or less LOL..that you can sale off or take with you when it comes time..


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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 03:30 PM
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Sure I can help, but do you think you want my help?? A mite accident prone maybe. The rebar thing might be left out so long as you go wall to wall. Where will you store every thing while doing the the floor? Let me heal-up and we can give it a go.

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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice guys.

Ron, that is a good idea on raising the door frame rather than cutting the door shorter.

BJ, I have looked at the possibility of a new shop, but it would run a minimum of $6000-$8000 time all was said and done, not to mention, I'm not sure how happy I would be with "minimum"

Jerry, I'm thinking Pod storage and a good contractor to do the work.

I wonder if it would cure/dry being an inside pour like that? I guess with windows and door open it would eventually get there.
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 05:23 PM
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Hi Bob,

I have to second the idea of using rebar to help hold the new floor in place. I'm sure, since you mentioned possibly having the pro's do it, I'm sure they'd do the same thing. A good "cook"/cure time should be around the 3 week mark, maybe a little longer.

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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Ken,

Thanks for the additional info. It is going to be hard to live without my dog house err.... shop for 3 weeks though
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 05:42 PM
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hi Bob

just my dumb opinion,

i would use rebar, but i would make the pour about 4 inches. 4 wont cost you that much more than 3 and would eliminate the spalting and cracking of pieces. in addition to rebar, i would use the reinforcing material that looks like fencewire on steroids. like i said this is my humble opinion.

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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Levon!!!!!

How in the world have you been my friend? Long time no hear from and I think of you often.

I picked 3 inches to raise the floor because every inch I add lowers my 8' ceiling Of course if 4" is what is necessary, then that is how it will have to go.

So glad to hear from you and your opinion is always valued.
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 07:05 PM
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If I recall right concrete is fully cured or as strong as it gets at 28 days. You won't need to open the doors, the slower it dries the better. If you are not putting a car on it you could move back in in a week or week and a half. I put all my tools and workbench in after a week and haven't had any cracks yet. I believe this will be my fourth winter with the new floor. I also used a six bag mix for the concrete, Stronger floor, and did not use any reinforcing wire.
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