Bi-Fold Doors - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Default Bi-Fold Doors

I need to install some bi-fold doors and have never done it before. Any suggestions or tips?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-10-2009, 11:58 PM
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hi John,

i dont envy you, i hate bifold doors. i admit im not good at it. in fact if i were doing it, i would try to find 2 doors that were as wide as the 4 and hinge them and add catches. maybe even use magnetic catches even if i had to buy stronger magnets.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009, 01:17 AM
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The biggest catch with bi-folds is when the frame is not square or level. Prepare some shims in advance.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-11-2009, 04:54 PM
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level has never been my problem , Deb. the problem i have is if you get them to fit when closed all the way, you have to have them so tight that you need to drive a 4 wheel drive truck into them to get them closed, lol lol.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-15-2009, 03:40 AM
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So you are saying the doors are to big or just need to adjusted ? It is ezzy to adjust..
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Not at that point yet - just wondering if there was anything that I should watch out for when building the frame, etc.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 11:11 AM
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I have hung many and the best advice I can give is take the extra time to make sure the opening is first the correct size for the bi-fold. Secondly make sure the opening is plum and square.

Have lots of shims on hand to help in pluming the jamb when you install it. Hanging doors is one project that can not be rushed. Take your time and I am sure you will be happy with the outcome.

After the pieces are cut for the jamb I like to use a pin nailer to hold the pieces in place while I use a counter sink bit with drill to drill the holes for the sides. Taking the time to dado the top will make for a stronger joint as well. I like to glue my joints pin nail and then drill them with a combination bit (counter sink and drill bit). I like to work on a flat surface and have everything laid out so I am not searching for things when I need them. A set of quick clamps works well to hold too if you are doing this by yourself.

Choice of material also makes a difference. MDF splits very easily while plywood is much stronger. Finger jointed pine is great but very costly.

Try to get one side flush to the wall and worry about the other side. If the wall is not flat you can always scrap down some drywall to ensure a good fit for the door trim. With pine you can use a block plane to help plane off the high points.

Hope this helps and good luck!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009, 09:46 AM
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I would add the following:
  1. Don't lose or misplace the little tool/wrench that comes with the bifolds. Even years later, you'll want/need it.
  2. Bifolds seem especially sensitive to the placement of the door-stops.

I have three different bifold doors in my house which I installed when I built the house. I regret all three. One was impossible to avoid; the other two could have been avoided with special-sized conventional doors.

Bifolds lack a solid, satisfying feeling. They seem like they're going to come crashing down in a pile---but unfortunately, never do. They just keep on nagging you to tear them out and do something better.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 11:31 AM
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I'm replacing all the bi-folds in our house right now.
I'll get some pics of the next sets I do today.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 03:18 PM
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Default Replacing Bi-fold doors

Our house was built in 1972 and steel bi-folds with louvers were installed. Over the years they have shown some rust, and were a pain to keep the louvers clean. So, out with the old, and in with the new.

This is for double doors. Single doors are the same.
Start by taking the old doors off, and removing the tracks.

Our new doors are 1 3/8" thick, so I cut a piece of scrap 1 7/8" wide. I use this to draw center lines on the top and bottom where the tracks and hinges go. It allows a little room between the doors and molding. With the block against the molding, strike end and center lines for the top rails. Use the screw holes in the rails to center them on the lines, and drive 1 1/4" screws into the header.

Since we had carpet down already, I ripped 2 30" pieces to lay on the floor where the old bottom track was. For a new installation these aren't needed. Use the measuring block to make a center line at both ends like you did for the upper rails. The bottom hinges are centered and screwed down to the floor and walls. You may need anchors if there is nothing behind the walls.
I had to trim the wall molding to allow the doors to close. I used my handy HF multitool to cut it back 2 1/2" from the front trim.
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Last edited by AxlMyk; 01-29-2010 at 10:12 PM.
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