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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Default Crawlspace door

I know - I ask a lot of questions. And I seem to have about 50 projects I want to do at once.

I would like to replace my crawlspace door. I know what I want to do, and how to get there, but I don't know what materials I should use. It's an exterior door, on hinges to a wooden frame set into concrete block. I believe it is simply a 1/2 sheet of ply, painted to match the house.

What I'd like to do is have the exact same dimensions (approx 3'x2.25'), opening the same way, but I'd like to insulate the door. I was thinking 1x2 or 2x4 bracing (x inside a rectangle), with foam/glass insulation, and perhaps a poly sheet as a vapor barrier on the interior.

What should I use as the exterior panel? OSB? Ply?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 12:36 PM
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We've had really good luck with painted plywood on a wellhead roof. We painted it with a product used on mobile home roofs. It's quite thick and lasts a long time. I don't know if a water based paint (to match your house color) over it would work, though. I'd think it would. We gave it 3 coats.
A piece of 1 1/2" thick insulating foam would work easily for the interior.
Just glue it on between the frame you described.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 12:46 PM
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hi Chris,

im assuming your talking a crawlspace door and not a basement door?

living in Georgia and being an exterminator, i know the problems 1st hand of wood, even pt wood. i always advise anyone to get someone to fabricate a metal door and let that be the last door you put up.

p.s. it probably wont cost much more. we have them made frequently.

yes, you can build it, will it last? no!

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 12:47 PM
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Hi Chris

They make crawlspace door kits just for that type of job, most are plated steel with foam insulation block that just snap into place...once you bolt it into place most come with rubber flap seals to keep the weather out..

==========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocheseuga View Post
I know - I ask a lot of questions. And I seem to have about 50 projects I want to do at once.

I would like to replace my crawlspace door. I know what I want to do, and how to get there, but I don't know what materials I should use. It's an exterior door, on hinges to a wooden frame set into concrete block. I believe it is simply a 1/2 sheet of ply, painted to match the house.

What I'd like to do is have the exact same dimensions (approx 3'x2.25'), opening the same way, but I'd like to insulate the door. I was thinking 1x2 or 2x4 bracing (x inside a rectangle), with foam/glass insulation, and perhaps a poly sheet as a vapor barrier on the interior.

What should I use as the exterior panel? OSB? Ply?



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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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I'm coming back to this, as I'm going to be doing it this weekend.

I considered a metal door, but I don't think that's in the current budget. And for the length of time I hope to stay in this house, I'd only have to replace the door maybe once, hopefully.

So, the construction aspect. The foundation is standard concrete block, and the current door is (probably) 1/2" ply backed with an unknown dimensional wood (1x4 seems likely).

I'd like this door to no longer be the weak link in keeping the crawl space free of bugs and cold air. While I'm not expecting an airtight seal, I'd like to get as close as possible. The opening already has a 2x6 wood frame, and except for one little bit where the hinges are mounted, looks to be in great shape. I don't need to replace it, except for that one side.

Two final questions, and I can build this thing:
1) is there a mathematical formula I can use to determine how much of an offset from the frame I need to be able to open/close it on a pivot without striking the frame? I think I can do this myself on paper, but if there's an online calculator or something I can double-check, that would be great.
2) what hinges should I use? Piano, Tee, strap?

OK, I may have answered my own question concerning #1.

If I have my wits about me, I need to calculate something like this:

Door dimensions - h*w*d = 54*37*5 (2x4 + 2 pieces of 3/4" ply) Looking at the door from the top, my door's c length (the distance from the pivot corner to the opposite corner - the hypotenuse) can be no bigger that the width of the opening. So if my width across the opening is 37", then my c length must default to 37" as well. Using Pythagorean theorem, my formula becomes a^2 (the new, unknown width of the door)+5^2 (depth)= 37^2. My door width is now 36.66", and I'll need to get weatherstripping to cover that 1/3 gap on the front side. Yes?

Last edited by Cochese; 02-11-2010 at 09:54 AM.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 10:37 AM
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Hi Chris

Make your own , just stop by HD/Lowes pickup some of the metal angle iron they use for shelving with holes , pickup some out door plywood and tar paper and some roofing shingles , hand full of some car. bolts ,bolt the frame up with metal and plywood ,bolt on a pair of hinges,your done it in no time at all..

=======

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocheseuga View Post
I'm coming back to this, as I'm going to be doing it this weekend.

I considered a metal door, but I don't think that's in the current budget. And for the length of time I hope to stay in this house, I'd only have to replace the door maybe once, hopefully.

So, the construction aspect. The foundation is standard concrete block, and the current door is (probably) 1/2" ply backed with an unknown dimensional wood (1x4 seems likely).

I'd like this door to no longer be the weak link in keeping the crawl space free of bugs and cold air. While I'm not expecting an airtight seal, I'd like to get as close as possible. The opening already has a 2x6 wood frame, and except for one little bit where the hinges are mounted, looks to be in great shape. I don't need to replace it, except for that one side.

Two final questions, and I can build this thing:
1) is there a mathematical formula I can use to determine how much of an offset from the frame I need to be able to open/close it on a pivot without striking the frame? I think I can do this myself on paper, but if there's an online calculator or something I can double-check, that would be great.
2) what hinges should I use? Piano, Tee, strap?

OK, I may have answered my own question concerning #1.

If I have my wits about me, I need to calculate something like this:

Door dimensions - h*w*d = 54*37*5 (2x4 + 2 pieces of 3/4" ply) Looking at the door from the top, my door's c length (the distance from the pivot corner to the opposite corner - the hypotenuse) can be no bigger that the width of the opening. So if my width across the opening is 37", then my c length must default to 37" as well. Using Pythagorean theorem, my formula becomes a^2 (the new, unknown width of the door)+5^2 (depth)= 37^2. My door width is now 36.66", and I'll need to get weatherstripping to cover that 1/3 gap on the front side. Yes?



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Started a bit on this Saturday. Took some PT 2x4 and made a frame with 45deg mitres. Have to screw everything up this week and put the plywood on.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 12:27 PM
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hi Chris,

when you sell the house you will need a clearance letter.

our company has to exempt that portion of the house from being clear of termites etc.

wish you the best of luck with it.

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Please Please Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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We had that inspected as part of our purchase agreement and have it covered already. Not an issue.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2010, 12:49 PM
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im not sure if you mean you have your house under a yearly bond.

either way it will have to have an inspection when you sell it and may have to be inspected by a home inspector also.

like i say, i do hope you have good luck with it.

its an issue when we inspect one. pt 2x4's arent even rated for ingrown use, so if they touch the ground we cant clear that.

light travels faster than sound, this is why some people seem bright til you hear them speak.

Please Please Please edit your profile with a name and location so we can better assist you and make for a friendlier forum

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