Sash Corner Bridle Joint & T Bridle Joint - Router Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Default Sash Corner Bridle Joint & T Bridle Joint

I'm making my own replacement windows. I got an old one from a builders rubbish skip, from looking at it I understood now, how the cill and window board were made and jointed.
I'm very new to wood working and routers I hardly know anything about either.

Looking at the window I found in the skip, I see the actual window frame joints are corner bridle joints also called slot mortise and tenon. I thought at first they were called mortise and tenon joints.

If you look at the attached picture of window frame
For want of a better term, the central dividing stile? It seems logical to me, follows that this would be jointed to the main window frame with T bridle joints. Would the large sash on the right been jointed with corner bridle joints too? The same with the small oblong sash at the top left?
Cheers.
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Last edited by Gaia; 10-06-2011 at 05:28 PM.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 06:09 PM
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Hi Peter

Hope it's ok I rework your picture so we can all see what you are talking about.

======



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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-07-2011, 05:00 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Peter

Hope it's ok I rework your picture so we can all see what you are talking about.

======
No problem, the actual window is one I saw on Ebay, not the old single glazed garage one I fished out of a skip. That window I took a load of photos of with the dimensions marked on it. Sort of had the idea to use it as a starting point, template.

Had a problem with puter had to reformat the whole drive, I wiped the pictures, could kick myself for that

I do remember though, the main frame had corner bridle joints and I think a T bridle joint in the center dividing stile. ( if that is the correct name ). The main frame had a rebate set into it, where the sash fitted. ( Again I think these are the correct terms, I've looked into what the componant parts of the variouis styles are called, still not sure )

The ebay window frame has a rebate too. From what I've seen, I think I'm right, sometimes the actual sash has a rebate and not the window frame.

In my upload of the window, I'm wondering about the joint, there is a rebate on the main frame. I seem to recollect the skip window had a rebate too but used a corner bridle joint, which was plain to see.

I did a search on haunched bridle joint and got a few results, didn't have time to look into it in depth, perhaps the joint in the Ebay window is a haunched corner bridle joint? Whatever the type of joint used, what ways could it be made? With regard to the equipment I have at the moment.
I got the seller to send me several pictures of the window, but the corner has a card cover and can't see the joint.
Thanks.
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Last edited by Gaia; 10-07-2011 at 05:08 AM.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-07-2011, 08:22 AM
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Hi

The bridle joints are not easy on the router table but with the fixture below it's easy, you can also use the tools you have on hand like a power saw or hand saw and chisel.

You can and buy the fixture just about anywhere or you can make your own..


=========



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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi

The bridle joints are not easy on the router table but with the fixture below it's easy, you can also use the tools you have on hand like a power saw or hand saw and chisel.

You can and buy the fixture just about anywhere or you can make your own..


=========
Regards tenoning jig, a few weeks ago I managed to get on Ebay, an as new copy of the Woodsmith Series, Custom Woodworking Shop - Built Jigs & Fixtures at a really good price. See attached picture of jig.

The Triton 2000 Workcentre has a non standard size mitre slot. The jig designs runner was modified by someone, so the jig runs fine in the Triton. Regards cutting the bridles open mortise, what would be the best way for me to remove the waste block between the two cuts?
Cheers
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 09:23 AM
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Hi Peter

For me I do it in one pass of the saw blade(s), I stack up more than one blade ,for the female part of the joint.. and also for the male part of the joint, most of the time I use 6 1/2" to 7 1/2" diam.blades for the stack up..because I can get them in the states for song, the normal price in the states is 1.50 ea. you could call it a low end dado setup but the blades always cut the flat true slot unlike most dado blade set ups..plus the blades are locked in place...

======




Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
Regards tenoning jig, a few weeks ago I managed to get on Ebay, an as new copy of the Woodsmith Series, Custom Woodworking Shop - Built Jigs & Fixtures at a really good price. See attached picture of jig.

The Triton 2000 Workcentre has a non standard size mitre slot. The jig designs runner was modified by someone, so the jig runs fine in the Triton. Regards cutting the bridles open mortise, what would be the best way for me to remove the waste block between the two cuts?
Cheers



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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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Last edited by bobj3; 10-11-2011 at 09:42 AM.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 10:11 AM
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Regards cutting the bridles open mortise, what would be the best way for me to remove the waste block between the two cuts?
Cheers
After you make your outside cuts just move the table saw fence to remove waste. You can also get a dado set & do it in one pass. The better sets will leave a nice flat square bottom.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!

Last edited by jlord; 10-11-2011 at 10:13 AM.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Peter

For me I do it in one pass of the saw blade(s), I stack up more than one blade ,for the female part of the joint.. and also for the male part of the joint, most of the time I use 6 1/2" to 7 1/2" diam.blades for the stack up..because I can get them in the states for song, the normal price in the states is 1.50 ea. you could call it a low end dado setup but the blades always cut the flat true slot unlike most dado blade set ups..plus the blades are locked in place...

======
Hi Bob,
Thanks, can't use dado blades in the Triton.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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After you make your outside cuts just move the table saw fence to remove waste. You can also get a dado set & do it in one pass. The better sets will leave a nice flat square bottom.
Cheers,
As I mentioned to Bob the Triton, won't accept dado blades. Your idea will work fine I expect, though I think I'll need to clean up by hand.
Peter.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 01:59 PM
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Hi

Let me ask why not ? almost all table saws have a plate that cover the blade it's easy to make your own cover plate so you can use a wider set of blades..

Here's shot of Harry's funny Triton table saw and it looks like if you remove the gray cover plate you will have the room.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...r-before-3.jpg

Just asking how do you cut a 45 deg.cut on your table saw,most need the room to pitch the blade over..like on a 6" wide board.

===

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
Hi Bob,
Thanks, can't use dado blades in the Triton.



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Last edited by bobj3; 10-11-2011 at 02:42 PM.
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