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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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I'm in the throes of using a drop-in roman bathtub as an undermount. The problem is the opening in the deck must match the inside edge of the tub flange exactly. I was thinking I'd just use a bearinged straight bit and just cut a template directly off of the bath. The bath is acrylic and thus even the slightest scratch will show up as a major imperfection. Are there any suggestions as to how you would cut the template?

Thanks for your help and input.

Ron

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 02:33 PM
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Cover the tub with blue painters tape. Helps protect surface as you make your template.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Cover the tub with blue painters tape. Helps protect surface as you make your template.
Hi James:

Thanks for the suggestion.

My fear is that the bearing will stick and burn through the painter's tape. Even the blue stuff won't protect from that. I'm wondering if I should use a nylon bearing or some other material???? Anything to keep the bit away from the gel coat on the tub.


Happy New Year and thanks for the help.

Ron

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 03:16 PM
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Nylon bearing wouldn't hurt if you have one if it helps ease your mind. You can double up on the path of the bearing with the tape. I use this technique many times to protect nice surfaces from bearing marks when applying laminate. Biggest problem there is the bit & bearing get gummed up from the contact cement but you will not have that problem as you are just making a template off the tub. Just make sure you have a clean & free bearing before you begin & don't set the bit to deep. Just barely deep enough to cut the template.

Maybe a new bit for the job. Don't forget to double check the screw before you begin to avoid a mishap. Without a picture of the situation it's hard to recommend a different route for making the template off the tub. If you can flush trim a pattern off the tub this is probably the way to go. Using 1/4" mdf for the template would also help. Is the tub flange square or an oval?

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!

Last edited by jlord; 01-03-2012 at 03:24 PM.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 03:31 PM
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When applying tape you will probably use it in several strips. If your router path is clockwise then apply tape overlap in a counter clockwise direction so the bearing runs off the tape & not into the edge of the next strip. This help keep the bearing from lifting the edge of tape as the bearing passes over the edge. The thickness of the tape also keeps the cutter that much further from your tub surface.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!

Last edited by jlord; 01-03-2012 at 03:33 PM.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 03:49 PM
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'allthumbs'; as a long time residential renovation contractor, my very serious concerns would be for the imperviousness of the interface between the tub and the wood decking.
In a standard installation, the tub would be top mounted over a waterproof surface, be it tile or marble, with a silicone seal at the joint.
I'd question whether the technique you're suggesting would satisfy your local building code (?). When it comes to bathrooms water is not your friend!
Please give it a some more consideration before you commit to the hole as you described. It's a very expensive condition to rectify, after the fact.
Cheers, and good luck!
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
'allthumbs'; as a long time residential renovation contractor, my very serious concerns would be for the imperviousness of the interface between the tub and the wood decking.
In a standard installation, the tub would be top mounted over a waterproof surface, be it tile or marble, with a silicone seal at the joint.
I'd question whether the technique you're suggesting would satisfy your local building code (?). When it comes to bathrooms water is not your friend!
Please give it a some more consideration before you commit to the hole as you described. It's a very expensive condition to rectify, after the fact.
Cheers, and good luck!
Well then there's always that.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Dan:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
'allthumbs'; as a long time residential renovation contractor, my very serious concerns would be for the imperviousness of the interface between the tub and the wood decking.
In a standard installation, the tub would be top mounted over a waterproof surface, be it tile or marble, with a silicone seal at the joint.
I'd question whether the technique you're suggesting would satisfy your local building code (?). When it comes to bathrooms water is not your friend!
Please give it a some more consideration before you commit to the hole as you described. It's a very expensive condition to rectify, after the fact.
Cheers, and good luck!
Originally, I was going to top mount the tub over a solid maple "deck" sitting on top of a SPF frame. When I started thinking about it, all it would take is some silicone sealant and I could mount the deck on top of the tub.

So, my solution is to build the frame to support the tub under the rim and a cement pad under the body of the tub. Next the maple-block top would be added with some sort of support between it and the frame to eliminate distortion of the tub rim. That joint would be accomplished with silicone sealant. I was going to seal the maple with some sort of marine varnish. The sides will be a combination of gyproc and a table frame (stretcher, legs etc.)

Does this seem reasonable? I have lots of sugar maple. We use it for firewood here so I figured it would be an inexpensive aesthetic material.

Thanks for the comments.

Ron

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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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Hi James:

Thanks for following this through with me. It always helps to have a sounding board for crazy ideas ;-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlord View Post
Nylon bearing wouldn't hurt if you have one if it helps ease your mind. You can double up on the path of the bearing with the tape. I use this technique many times to protect nice surfaces from bearing marks when applying laminate. Biggest problem there is the bit & bearing get gummed up from the contact cement but you will not have that problem as you are just making a template off the tub. Just make sure you have a clean & free bearing before you begin & don't set the bit to deep. Just barely deep enough to cut the template.

Maybe a new bit for the job. Don't forget to double check the screw before you begin to avoid a mishap. Without a picture of the situation it's hard to recommend a different route for making the template off the tub. If you can flush trim a pattern off the tub this is probably the way to go. Using 1/4" mdf for the template would also help. Is the tub flange square or an oval?
I'll go see if I can find a nylon bearing today. Wish me luck. Quebec is no place for "specialty" items. OK, I'll see if I can squirrel out the bucks for a new bit -- it's got to go past the boss so wish me luck. She's the original penny pincher :-))

Thanks for the checklist. Gotta go, talk soon.

Ron

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 11:55 AM
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allthumbs; not to belabour the point but wood and water do not mix! If you insist on using it as a tub deck you'll ABSOLUTELY have to use an epoxy clear penetrating resin BEFORE installing the tub rim on top. There are no other clear finishes which are absolutely waterproof. I can't stress enough the potential for damage from water staining and wood swelling and buckling. A very risky concept.
I should maybe suggest Teak or Redwood/Cedar as better, more water resistant alternatives(?).
Cheers,
-Dan
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