Dis-assembly of an ELU 177E (DeWalt 625), how? - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2012, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Default Dis-assembly of an ELU 177E (DeWalt 625), how?

I would like to dis-assemble my ELU 177E as it seems like it is time to change bearings. Is this the right forum section?

First, I need to get access to the lower and upper beaing.

On the lower one there is a cover. Is it threaded in place?

On top of the upper bearing there is the speed feedback magnet. I have seen / heard that many people have cracked this plastic? wheel when trying to remove it.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to remove these, and put them back, in one piece?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2012, 10:44 AM
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Hello!
I can not help too much with your problem but see also this: ww.routerforums.com/general-routing/29030-elu-mof-177e-bearing-replacement.html
Please, you can post a photo in which to see how to connect the electronic board?
thank you
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2012, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janaf View Post
I would like to dis-assemble my ELU 177E as it seems like it is time to change bearings.
Hi Janaf and welcome to the forum

Quote:
Originally Posted by janaf View Post
First, I need to get access to the lower and upper beaing.

On the lower one there is a cover. Is it threaded in place?
Yes, You will need a pin spanner or a small drift amd a hamer to shift it. Remove the collet and nut first, though. After you've done that there are a few more things to come out before the armature will drop out (you'll need to split the casing)

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On top of the upper bearing there is the speed feedback magnet. I have seen / heard that many people have cracked this plastic? wheel when trying to remove it.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to remove these, and put them back, in one piece?
Oddly I haven't. Sometimes they just seem to weld themselves on, but they are only a friction fit. Fortunately they are readily available, at least for typ 3 and typ 4 routers (part #249067-01). I try turning the item round in the fingers to loosen it then turn and pull up gently by hand. I think what destroys them is folk trying to pop them off with a screwdriver in the same way that they'd remove a bottle top

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Phil
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-29-2012, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Phil! Maybe this info could go in the reference section too? And I may suggest that the DeWalt section there is renamed DeWalt and ELU?

I will try warm the plastic wheel lightly with a hair dryer. Thermal expansion of plastic is about 3x more than steel.... An not pry from one side. A tiny pullers might do the trick. I could make one from a screw, and nut and some sheet metal....
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 04:13 AM Thread Starter
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It worked! And I am alive to tell!

What I did was to use two flat chisels that I rotated, not pryed!, under the plastic disk, while heating with a hair dryer. After 30 seconds: pop! Three hands are good!

The rotated chisels will create contact along two lines, instead of contact in one single point if you pry. This should significantly decrease the risk of breaking the little plastic thingy.

Plastic has much more thermal expansion that steel, so warming it helps.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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The lower house came off nicely, just a bit surprising when it popped of. I should have thought about the column springs and prepared a softer landing for the upper house and rotor

The bearing seals where removed and the bearing cleaned, it now runs smooth again and does not need a replacement.

The housing was quite dirty so I threw it in the dishwasher but it turned out the paint on the lower housing did not like that and came out clean but full of blisters So the lower housing will be stripped and repainted, with epoxy this time. The base was OK though. better paint there?

Next: how do I remove the upper housing? By tapping the lower end of the shaft up or the upper end down? I do not want o damage the spindle end and not the upper plastic house either. Or the fan...
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 01:37 PM
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Hi many great video(s) on youtube for the dewalt router

How to Remove an Armature Bearing with a Vise - YouTube!


http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dew...1009_2726.html

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-31-2012, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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How do I remove the upper bearing?

The problem is that I need to remove the main motor shaft from the bearing with the bearing still in place in the housing. The motor shaft has to come out downwards while the bearing is mounted in the plastic housing from the top. So there is no way to grab the bearing and pull it up, off the shaft.

I have had penetrating oil there for two days, and I have removed the ciclip. Then I have been hammering on the shaft end until the thin end of it split.

(Stupid me, I should have used a short bit of pipe around that, and hammered on the pipe. Now I will have to drill out the shaft end and add a screw to mount the speed feedback plastic ring).

But how should I do? Looking at the parts drawing it does not look like anything is holding the rotor except the upper bearing. I see no other way than hitting on the shaft end but I fear that I will crack the main plastic housing if I hit it any harder

For clarity I should add that the lower bearing and housing have been removed, but not the fan and the plastic plate just above it....
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-01-2012, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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By grinding some with a little Proxxon ("Dremel but better") i could finally get the upper bearing off. But removing the bearing really took some force beyond normal. I was counting on that the housing would break and I'd have to get a new one.

The larger lower bearing came off without any problem. The upper one must have been heated and dropped in when mounted. Tolerances where not on my side here.

The notches cut in the rotor, on the left side of the picture, are to adjust weight during dynamic balancing of the rotor.

The brush contacts are hardly worn at all. the previous owner said it had been on a shelf for the last decade and not used much before that either. So swapping bearings should not have been needed, cleaning them would have been enough, but to do that, I still needed to remove them...
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Last edited by janaf; 02-01-2012 at 02:11 PM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-01-2012, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Auctch, double posted...

Last edited by janaf; 02-01-2012 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Double-posted....
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