Redwood Expansion Joint Replacement - Router Forums
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-16-2012, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Default Redwood Expansion Joint Replacement

Hello Everyone.

I have a "honey do list" that involves replacing all of the Redwood Expansion joints in my driveway and Patio. I live in the People's Republic of California. (Uhg....) It is planned to get over 100 today on this driveway.

My plan are to drill 2" into the 'floated' driveway and 1" into the Redwood, place a plug and screw a #8 screw into the plug.

Here are some pictures.

Any opinions welcome ( if not encouraged )

I can't get the Manage Attachment to work....So try this to the photos:

Flickr: Old Nikon Rangefinder shooter's Photostream
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-16-2012, 02:33 PM
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Default Groovy!

Hi, Neil; I'm not sure what the question is(?)...
Are you looking for a way to remove the old wood? Or anchor the new wood?
If the new wood is bone dry when you install it, a simple light pressure should be all that's required to seat it. If it's wet, don't. It'll shrink, and that's where the weeds will set up shop.
If the question was how to remove it, I'd set my saw blade a 1/4" less than the original depth and run a kerf right down the middle...then split either side off in towards the kerf.
I can't see any reason for there to be any nails in it except for the junctions. Use a demo blade (just in case) and you're good!
The old stuff didn't look that bad in the pictures; is it worse than it appears?

Neil, you might also consider giving the new wood an allover coat of a preservative stain before installing it. Concrete is really hard on wood; I think it's likely the high pH, and it reacts for a very long time, hence the protective treatment.
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-17-2012, 06:46 AM
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Neil, if you want that to function as a true expansion joint; redwood is not the answer. Coming from a background including structural engineering and concrete formwork, you need to clean-out the joints, mask-off the joints and use some form of caulking that will include a liquid primer - applied to clean, dry concrete. Thiokol is the best of the caulkings that I am familiar with. Also important is the placement needs to take place at a mean (average) temperature - rather than the 100 you referred to (extreme). Follow all of the manufacturer's printed instructions. Some caulkings are available in colors, also.


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