Have you used either of those rigs?
Is there a best blade?
I use a Collins Coping Foot for scribes (copes). It requires a T244D blade - no other will do (it has a fair amount of side set for cutting curves) - it also requires a simpler jigsaw so the Bosch and Festool models with extra blade guides won't accept it. For those who've never seen one, the "boat-shaped" silver foot on the jigsaw is the Collins Foot
For safest/fastest use you should make yourself a simple box jig to hold the moulding you are scribing.
Works well and is very fast. I have done some very big jobs with this tool. A good coping saw man is almost as fast for the first couple of cuts, but after 30 or so you do tend to slow down using a manual saw - the jigger never tires! Above: Waste cuts to speed-up scribe (cope). On simpler skirting (baseboard) cuts this isn't necessary
Below: The scribe (cope) being made. This never fails to scare the bejesus out of quite a few of my colleagues but it's actually quite safe so long as you keep the "spare" hand behind the blade. The jigsaw is used inverted and from beneath to allow you to make a clean cut (the blade is cutting downwards into the finish side), add back clearance and to give visibility on the cut line Below: A completed scribed (coped) joint. This is an extremely deep sprung architrave moulding (more like cornice/crown moulding) in solid oak which would have possibly pulled apart had the joint been mitred. The plasterwork was also a couple of degrees off square
That saw is a very beaten-up old Metabo D-handle jigsaw - nothing special - when it died it was replaced by another old jigsaw, this time a body grip model which is easier to manouver in sharp corners
"Unfortunately there is lots of bad information online; some of it is really scary. It's probably not intentional, but I've seen some content that sets up the illusion that you can do whatever you want and get away with it" - Norm Abram in an interview with Jefferson Kolle
Last edited by Phil P; 04-04-2013 at 04:55 AM.
Reason: Added photos