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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thumbs down Shop lighting -- electrical question

I want to add lighting in the garage shop. As you can see in the pic, I have two light sockets for incandescent lights.

Can I just remove the light socket, put duplex sockets in the boxes and then plug in two 2-lamp fixtures in each one? Any concerns or better suggestions? Permitting needed?

T5 or T8 or T12? I am thinking T8.

Main need/want is BRIGHT, realistic lighting.
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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 09:47 AM
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Yes, you need a LOT more light. I think it's best to run a new line or two for fluorescent s.

Then you'll have plenty of room/outlets for task lighting.

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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 10:08 AM
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Steve, your plan will work just fine.

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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Mike.

Harrison, I should note that most work during daytime with garage door open, which povides a lot of daylight, except in winter.

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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 11:48 AM
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Steve; on a cost basis go for the T8's; on a high light level basis, the T5's for sure.
Having said that, you're making extra work and expense for yourself going the lamp cord and plug route.
I assume there's a 4" round outlet box where the current incandescent is?
Just remove the lampholder, take out an additional knockout (or 2) and run Loomex to your new fluorescent locations.
DO NOT try and combine lighting and tool plugs on the same circuit.
A sample scenario is:
You're running your tablesaw (separate 220V cct?) and you have your dust collector plugged into the lighting~receptacle cct. The DC blows the cct. and you're suddenly left in the dark with your TS whirring away...you can't even see where the OFF switch is! Don't do it.
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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 01:06 PM
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Like Dan said. You can mount a florescent over each existing octagon box and if you need more light farther back I would just run armored cable (bx cable) from those fixtures to the next lights. (The wires have to be protected from physical damage when run across a wall or the ceiling according to wiring codes in NA.)

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 04:08 PM
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Steve; I was thinking about the electrical connection issue and I remember quite a few years back the y changed the Cdn. Electrical Code for the reason I was illustrating.
It used to be that you couldconnect the rest of a cct. to the second set of contact screws on a wall plug, then they changed the code so that all the devices had to be 'pigtailed'. The reason being that if you were doing maintenance with the cct. live, as soon as you loosened the connection, the lights went out, and you were left holding a hot wire in the dark (anybody that's done reno work is lying through their teeth if they claim that they always turn the power off! ).
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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 07:06 PM
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Steve I'm in the minority on lighting, I can't stand flourescent lighting. It plays tricks with my eyes and for me can't see as well..... I use an overhead light and several flood lights positioned around the shop that can be easily positioned and turned on and off when needed.

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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-20-2013, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input...

1. This is a dedicated lighting circuit.
2. Only a 10% improvement with T5 over T8, but substantial increase in $
3. Dan wrote "I assume there's a 4" round outlet box where the current incandescent is?
Just remove the lampholder, take out an additional knockout (or 2) and run Loomex to your new fluorescent locations. " that will yield cable coming out of an open box, no? Isn't that bad?
4. Marco, isn't that with the older T12?

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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 05-21-2013, 02:08 AM
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Steve; I made a couple of assumptions re #3
-that the jct. box is accessible
-that the wiring is up on, or above the ceiling
You can't use lamp cord for permanent wiring.
I suggested Loomex, or NMD 10, for your wiring but you could also use PVC conduit or aluminum flex if you're surface mounting it. The reality is that a lot of exposed surface ceiling wiring is done with Loomex. As long as it's not exposed to physical damage there's nothing wrong with it. Look at any unfinished basement ceiling...the stuff is everywhere.
It must enter both the box and the fixture through a knockout and it must pass through an approved connector when it enters. The cabling also needs to be supported with staples or straps.
Is your ceiling already finished ie drywall?
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