Advice Making Casement Windows
If you look at my profile you can see the range of power tools I have.
I've been looking into this for a while. I'm intending to make my own replacement windows.Casement with flush fitting sashes ( flush fitting like in photo B ) with a top and side opener, also another window style with just one fixed sash and top opener as on the right hand side of the front of the house.
This is how I've been thinking, I'm proposing to rebate all around the window frame, the opening sashes will flush close into the rebates. I'm trying to explain how I've been thinking about doing things. bare in mind please. I'm not sure if I'm using the right window nomenclature, scantlings, window sash, frame side jamb etc.
I'm Intending to make the same style but in hardwood as in picture titled ( Window Style )
In a wooden design a center mullion from top to bottom in the middle would be required, mortise and tenon jointing again?
This house front is one of the next pair of semis to my own semi. Has exact same front brickwork opening. I enlarged the photo and printed it out then to scale it up used a plastic ruler like 10mm = 4cm whatever. Did this so could go to glazing people and find out rough cost of glazed units.
The static non opening window ( light ) in the frame will have a shallower rebate as no sash will be fitted into it, just the glazing unit with molding pinned over to hold in position. ( as in photo E ) In the past I've gone into the correct way of bedding glazed units into wood sashes so that they don't fail.
The sashes I propose making, from what I know, are relatively straightforward and plain, nothing fancy, that requires special tooling. My sash design consists of rebated rails and stiles, mortise and tenoned to each other. with molding strips pinned in place to hold the glazing units in position in the rebate. A haunched tenon and mortise might be more stable but my power tool skill set isn't up to that I think. The window frame the side jambs are tenoned into the head jamb and bottom cill, window board. I have information on using battens tacked to the frame to ensure is completely square when gluing and clamping up.
One of the things I find perplexing, running a rebate all along down the complete edge of a board is straightforward.
On the sash stile though, the rebate doesn't run the whole length, it stops short where the top rail joints into the stile with the tenon, into the stile mortise. I can't work out how this can be done, drill a hole or something to depth of rebate then use a router cutter to make rebate then square up end point with a chisel?
I intend to use, as will be outdoors, air dried French Oak which will be already acclimatized to being outside. French Oak available at I think a good price here, Ebay UK item number 320991213120 not all sizes seem to be available.
Rip it on the table-saw to within couple of mm then get it exact on the thicknesser. I also have a planing jig that I can use on the Dewalt thickesser. If that doesn't produce satisfactory results, I have a friend who has a 10 inch planer who would plain any timber I need done.
Also if use a tenon like in picture titled Tenon photo, if I run a rebate along the rail edge won't it interfere with the tenon shape, cheek and perhaps strength? I assume the depth of the window frame side jamb should be enough, wide enough to sit on and cover, the inside and outer course of bricks in the external wall. That said I don't understand how to work out how wide I should have the frame jambs same with the dimensions of sash stiles and rails.
Is quite a gig stumbling block for me to work out the relative dimensions of the various window components. How wide should the frame jambs be, how wide should the sash stile and rails be all in relation to each other.
Once I understand the relative sizes of the various window components. I can then get an idea of what the timber would cost me.
I might be required by building regulations to router in slots in the head jamb for air trickle vents.
The glazed units can have a depth of 22mm.The original windows I'm replacing had no cill just a frame, mine won't be made with a cill but interior window board.
The frame jambs are tenoned into mortises in the top jamb and window cill, window board.I have trade quality Dewalt Thickness/ planer and other stuff.
Any guidance you could me would be very much appreciated,
Last edited by Gaia; 07-25-2014 at 04:41 AM.