Dan3103, Nickp, Mike and Stick486,
Thanks for the replies. A little history on this door - There is a window right next to this door that I replaced way back, old double hung for an Anderson. Being relatively green at the time, I didn't look closely at the existing arrangement and went ahead and bought the closest Anderson, height OK but a little narrower. I removed the old window to find that the window jamb was directly attached to the door jamb - the wall had been framed with a header going the complete span and a half wall built under the window. As the new window was narrower, I shimmed a short piece of 2x4 away from the door jamb to give me the required rough opening for the window and toe nailed it in place. I don't have any photos - this was way before affordable digital cameras were available so couldn't /didn't document the process like I do now. On the outside, I nailed in a piece of 1/2" plywood to fill in the gap and pieced in some coli stock to finish it off. On the inside, I used ranch casing around the door and the window but ripped the piece on the side of the window to fit the space and directly butted it against the outer edge of the door trim.
Taking off the interior trim is an option - but the corner is glued and finish nailed across the miter so would probably have to be replaced. I don't have any more paint from the last time so would wind up having to repaint the kitchen. Not whining (really) but was hoping to have that on next year's schedule.
I had actually thought about the dowels, but was thinking of a dowel at each hole - so a bunch of holes. Stick, I kind of see what you're saying but do you mean a dowel under each set of four holes? If I use screws through the bracket as well as just the plate, that would be three dowels which is not really a problem - but the dowel would have to be about 2" diameter to pick up the 4-bolt pattern. The pattern is about 1-1/8" in the X-axis, 7/8" in the Y-axis and 1-7/16" on the diagonal, and the patterns are about 2" on center. I could do the top and bottom holes, let the glue dry and then bore the third hole - I don't have a Forstner bit that big, would have to buy one, and I'd have to check on 2" dowels at Lowes.
Something jogged my memory for some reason - that maybe the outside of the door jamb was tight up against the end 2x4 on the knee wall - so I took a 1/8" bit and drilled a couple of holes through the jamb and into the 2x4. I couldn't pick up a "gap" between the two pieces, even with drilling very slowly - there was no sudden jump in depth, so maybe there isn't any gap between the two parts.
Here's a quick layout of the 3 dowels and the holes to match the hole pattern in the plate - the rectangle is the dimension of the plate. What do you think?